Anyone have a good solution for preventing scratches on a fiberglass hull, when stowing a spare GP with epoxy ends? I've tried the suggested solution of putting tape protection on deck where the paddle rests but the paddle never seems to stay exactly in the area plus scratches the hull while placing on and off. I've thought of putting duct or electrical tape on the paddle ends. I've thought of putting atheletic socks on the ends! Any more elegant suggestions?
I used a piece of bungee cord
looped around a couple pad eyes at the bow to secure the paddle, and it holds the paddle very secure, even in surf. The bungee is slightly stretched and a knot is placed on the outside of the pad eyes. Then the two ends are glued together with heat shrink placed over them. The bungee in front of the cockpit holds the other end. Here is a link to a picture.
My friend uses a contact paper on the
deck at either end of the paddle to protect the finish. Secure the ends by solid bungee loops and put a scuff resistent surface down. 3m makes something for the front end ofcars to be used as a clear bug shield. something like that could work. Bill
Absolutely stunning boat!
scratches build character
I use reflective tape!
scratches destroy resale value
I hate to baby my kayaks but with today's economic and employment uncertainty, I find myself thinking more than before about resale values.
various stores sell a product called " Paddlebritches" that straps across the bow ( or stern?) of a kayak and holds a 2 pc paddle.
pants vs socks
Wow, since the product looks truly like a pair of pants, I guess my idea of putting socks on the ends of the GP is not too different, except the socks would probably fall off into the water while re-trieving the paddle.
ya should get some 500 grit wet/dry sand paper an smooth off yer ends , then ya can use bathtub no slip stick ons on the hull , or like said reflective tape -tis also what I use only on my upper left side bow by the lifelines -tis where my paddle gets shipped when I ain’t usin it .My spare is secure enough to not mess with the deck.
And yeah , contact would work , just a lil thin , but ya could dbl. it up .
Just an add on – if ya do put down any sticky stuff round off the edges , right angle edges peel off easier
You should see what…
… 6-7 years of a Superior carbon GP can do.
My light deck color helps minimize scratch appearance - well except for the carbon and dirt that gets worked in - so I rarely think about it. I could buff the very shallow scratches out and restore the gelcoat to like new quite easily.
Then there that set of oyster gouges on the hull, my foam outfitting, modified skeg control, seat move…
It’s good to have at least ONE kayak that has excuses* why you can’t sell it!
- I say excuses because I could get it back to stock outfitting (for someone crazy enough to want that) and good to go for sale condition in a day. Paddlers with the right priorities would buy as is.
3-M clear protectant
Check automotive accessory stores - 3-M makes a clear material designed to protect against rock dings. Comes in sheets of various sizes. Sorry I cannot remember the name.
It sounds like…
…you need to use more protective tape. You can use it to make eye-catching accents on your deck, too. There are examples on the second page of my “Deck Rigging” album on Webshots at:
The only caveat with using this material is that it does shrink slightly over time, so closely fitted pieces will end up with fine gaps between them. If you keep this in mind when designing the layout, it’s easy to work around.
I used 3M #310 tread tape.
Also called Anti-slip tape or scuff tape. It’s what they use around pools and on steps to larger boats. It looks like 80 grit sand paper, but is all rubber, has waterproof adhesive and is UV resistant. I got a 4" X 48’ roll of it on ebay for about $30 (used, full roll is 60’ long) and used the rest on my brother’s fishing boat, grandmother’s steps, etc.
Not sure what diameter bunji you have
but if you have .250" + you can put a twist / loop in the bunji before launch. This will lift the blade off the deck somewhat and be very secure too. Hard to do this on the water so the generic ‘pipe wrap’ you see @ Home Depot works perfect too. Very tough and does not leave a mess if you change it once in a while.
I was nice the first time…
I really don’t want to sound harsh. Picture what I am about to say in the most good natured campfire rib jabbing nature way possible?
What kind of yuppy scum are you?
Do you want to paddle or do you want a commodity.
Your kayak is meant to be used. It is not a commodity.
If you want a commodity buy some apple stock. If you want to learn how to paddle and get out there and “do it”, forget about the scratches and paddle your guts out.
I do understand you want to protect your investment. And I realize I am getting philisophical on you, about a very practical post, but I have one piece of advice I got from my 12 year old son.
Chillax. It is chill and relax in one word.
Hi, Look at how I rigged my night heron. I used pvc plumbing fixtures for the ferral ends and I doubled up the bungies for the blades. The blades fit between the bungie, so the paddle never touches the deck. Here is some pictures to give you a better Idea.
Back in the day
when I worried about such things, I slipped a old athletic sock ove the blade. It worked, but at some point I decided to try to be careful but not to worry if a heavily used kayak looks used.
UHMW PE tape
I used some scraps left over from my workshop. Works great and is transparent. Probably too expensive to buy just for this use.