Stand tall and push with a 12' pole

I don’t do a lot of poling, but I do try to get out a couple of times a year. On Saturday the crew got together for a poling trip down a section of the Ware River in central MA – 7 poling, 1 paddling, not a kayak in sight. :wink: The river was low - perfect level for poling. Few pictures here:

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Awesome! I do some poling in NE Illinois, not many polers here, so it’s good to see a mob of us. Thanks for posting!

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Lots of polers up on ME and NH, but also a fair number down here in southern New England - I think everyone on this trip was either MA or RI. There are lots of great rivers around here (shallow with a firm, rocky bed) that are perfect for poling. A lot of people like being able to push upstream and then coast back down. I still prefer downriver runs - pushing back upstream when something looks challenging.

A lot of the rivers beds here are largely mud – 10 or 12K years of post-glacial compost, with patches of sand and gravel. A duck-foot pole gets caught in the buried tree parts, so I just use straight, spike ended poles. One of these years I’d like to head out to NE for some more pole-friendly rivers. Lots of them in the Ozarks, too.

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Yup - nothing like expecting to hit firm river bed, and sinking into a foot of muck. Happened a couple of times on this trip, but to too bad.

I’ve thought about poling through shallow sections when I’m canoeing up and back on local streams. As it is, I either have to “pole” using my paddle, which is tough on the blade edge, or get out and walk the canoe until it gets deep enough to paddle again. Just not sure how I’d store that 12’ pole in a 13’-6" canoe when I’m paddling. :slight_smile: (I notice that the canoes being used for poling are larger tandems.)

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Only sunk in a foot? lol…

Stashing a 12’ pole in a solo canoe can be a challenge. My primary pole is a 2-piece job from Hayden poles, but I’ve heard they may be shutting down, if not already there.

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It is tough to pole in a dedicated solo - the seat is positioned where you need to be standing, so you are either too far forward or too far back and the trim is going to be off. I have tried standing in my Wildfire, and even ignoring the issue with the seat placement, it is really tippy when you are standing. Polers come from the river tripping tradition, so most polers are in tandem tripping boats which are wider so more stable, and open toward the center so you can move around to adjust the trim. I know one guy who has a dedicated poling boat with no center thwart so he can get far enough forward to get the boat slightly bow heavy when snubbing (holding the boat stationary) in a downstream current. For me it is either a poling trip or a paddling trip - I don’t have a boat that is good for both.

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No word from Hyden poles since covid. I hope they are following this post, because there are a lot of people (inluding me) who would like to get a new aluminum pole (or two). :wink:

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We used a duck foot pole in the SC
marshes in our pursuit of marsh hens when I was young and bloodthirsty. With a jon boat.

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What eckilson said about poling a solo is spot on. What can work is to stand in front of the seat, facing backwards. This partially addresses the trim issue, but not the top-heavy issue. It should work best in a solo canoe with symmetrical rocker… differential rocker may make turning a bit more challenging. It depends a lot on the particular canoe, so try before you buy, of course.

We’ll be having an intro to poling class at the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association’s Annual Assembly at Paul Smith’s College, this coming July. ASSEMBLY 2024 - Start planning now! | WCHA Forums

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Shallow rocky rivers are made for poling. I was inspried by Garrett Conover. I had an Old Tow Guider 18. The flat bottom was made for it. I tried it out here on the Little Truckee River. It helps the balance. Snubbing takes a little practice. It was fun and I would do it again.

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I made my pole from bamboo. When I hit deep water I paddle with it if there are shallows ahead. I have a duck foot I used in FL years ago. BTW great photo.

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I was inspired by Harry Rock.

I started learning what little I know in northern Ontario/Manitoba/Saskatchewan canoe tripping. Many years later, I found a book on poling by the Beletz brothers, from Missouri, and then Harry Rock’s book. There’s much more for me to learn, no question.

I still find poling too much work. (Hell, these days I find PADDLING too much work…Which is why I’ve lately Zen’d off into more often than not canoe sailing.)
But I would probably appreciate poling if I had a localized crew like yours to share the camaraderie of it with.

Couple things I discovered I really do like about it…1). Scrounging up a new pole in the wild now and then. And 2). Using an SUP paddle coming back downstream…




I know it’s very shallow of me. But then again, so’s the water.:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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I guess trying to keep a narrow solo upright while standing would be a good test of perseverance so I’ll probably just keep getting out and walking. Still, might be fun to try, especially with a hand made pole like the one spiritboat used.

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If you have a tandem boat you should give it a try. Hand-cut poles are fine. If you get serious about it can order a pole shoe on line (google canoe pole shoe). Or you can try something like this - the Home Depot closet rod pole. It will get you started, but probably won’t stand up to long-term use.

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Just a note to say, I harvest strictly from overcrowded saplings on private lands (my own/with neighbors permission). Also, if one is adventurous as well as patient, one can find standing dead lengths here and there, sometimes even along suburban roadsides.

(PS - I personally find I prefer 10 foot lengths by an inch-and-a half diameter sufficient–Easier to stowe quickly on-board beneath thwarts, even if having to bend my knees more often.):wink:




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When I made my bamboo pole I fiber-glassed about 3 feet of each end and epoxied the entire pole. I used a hardwood insert (Mahogony), a large washer, bolt, and nut for the tip of each end.

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