Storage question

Hi. I just became the proud owner of a used Old Town Pack canoe. I’m a total beginner and have a storage question. Currently it is stored at a friend’s house under a carport out of the sun and rain.

It is set up rail-sides down on 2 X 4’s which are set a top wood blocks. The 2 X 4 or set about a foot and a half from the ends of the canoe. I’d say it’s about a foot off ground, with the ends of the canoe about 7 or 8 inches off ground. The ground is (moist to wet) soil and rock (no grass and it’s not a gravel driveway) and a little uneven. I tried to get the canoe as level as I could. I threw a tarp partially over the top. That’s how it’s sitting right now. This doesn’t seem ideal to me. How should I store it? The carport, under cover, but outside, is where I need to keep it for now. Any and all advice is appreciated.


its fine
no need for the tarp too.

I’m in Northern New England and the local liveries are full of Old Towns. They sit out all winter…sometimes with quite a snow load. What matters most is they are not in contact with the ground.

Not being level is not a big deal.

Best storage limits the UV exposure, UV eats most plastics and most everything else too.

Sure you can leave it outside in the north without major damage, but it’ll last longer and look better if it’s out of the sun.

Bill H.


– Last Updated: Mar-01-16 3:09 AM EST –

Your friend with love kindness and several 20's

Most of these hulls are waterproof so dampness is not a major problem. UV is, with lengthy exposures

The support is good. Nail it together so the elves doahn tip it over when you're in RI.

Level the base using a string line level. Maybe tie or drive a nail at 'grade' on the building side then bumper on the other. Measure down to the base for leveling, use a hand level to cross over the base proper.

Show the hull you care.

Supports go under the thwarts. Chain thwart to a rod driven into ground. Give friend a key.

Happy paddling !

ideal would be
Stored at MY house out of the rain and sun.

Support points
It sounds like its supported at the ends, which risks “hogging” the shape over time. I would move the support to roughly 1/3 and 2/3 along the length. This balances the forces which preserves its intended shape. No need to worry about level, unless its way out. Its more important that the supports are in the same plane. This prevents twisting forces.

a Rendezvous from garage c to garage a onto ATT unused rear bumper supports…unbolt bumper resting on support so yadoahn gotta hold the bumper up with one hand while…

supports are 2x6 rectangles with metal strap corner braces abt 18x18"

of course rectangles are grounded on the wide side off the 6"…flat

this was good inside a garage or ? as the support is stable and available when setting the hull down on the gunwale then turning it over. hard to &^ed0))) ! miss.

also good for leveling across the stern to bow sides. slip in a shim.

I changed the supports

– Last Updated: Mar-06-16 6:21 PM EST –

to under the seat and thwart (which is what I assumed you meant by 2/3 and 1/3). Is that what you meant TomM? Thank you.

I have no idea
what you are saying. Are you speaking Greek? :wink:

I speak several

– Last Updated: Mar-06-16 8:07 PM EST –

languages but not slobovian.

I have two frames on hand of 2x6 and fake 2x6-2-2x4 mated with scrap plywood like so...I'll look for you. duh.

how's the one knot go down ? ace knot !

Google Images doesn't know frames either.

When the frame is wider than the hull, with better bottom/floor balance then using it is waaaay more easier than a scrimping type small support.