Suggestions for someone trying to get into touring kayaks

So far I’ve been checking out the Stratos and it mostly seems to be up my alley. Probably gonna habe onto my boat for this summer but I want to level up for next year

Unless you’re lucky enough to have the chance to demo a variety of kayaks, I wouldn’t focus too much on trying to identify a specific kayak to buy. I’d watch for a used kayak 16 to 17 feet long, 22.5 inches or less wide, and with a longer waterline length (bow and stern more straight up and down versus pointy). Then make sure you can fit in it comfortably and that your feet fit with whatever footwear you wear when paddling. You can afford a used fiberglass kayak or even kevlar or carbon if you find a deal, or save some bucks and start out with more durable plastic. And you’ll probably want to save some money for a good paddle if you don’t have one already.

Once you get some time in your new kayak, you may find that you want something lighter, or faster (even longer and narrower), or maybe you’ll want to trade off a little speed for more maneuverability (more rocker and pointier ends). Then you can resell what you have and move on to the next boat.

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Does the cost of paddle amount to THAT much of a difference? Just curious.

If you are interested in touring then definitely. The longer your time on the water the heavier that paddle is going to feel and the more energy you are going to expend just holding it. That said, having a good paddling technique will help mitigate that but I would still do my best to go fully carbon if possible and carbon shaft if not.

I paddle lots of different types of boat but even when I am out on my poly tandem barge, if I am doing distance, I still use my lightest paddle. If I am just messing around doing some practice sessions or the like then the type of paddle and shape matters more.

And I know you won’t like this either but in an ideal world your backup paddle should be of a similar quality as your primary :slight_smile: I don’t quite have that yet because $$$ but that is the recommendation for touring. I wouldn’t worry about that now, but it’s good to keep in mind as you start costing everything out and deciding what to get now, what to get cheap and what to get later. Things like a quality PFD, paddle float, bilge pump, radio etc is more important than a luxury paddle.

I found this pretty helpful: https://youtu.be/V3YHxCNylJE

It’s not about the cost. It’s about the quality. Keep a constant eye out for used, quality paddles. Craigslist, FaceBook, Ebay, local paddling boards, and here. If you’re patient you can score an excellent paddle for ~$200.

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True! I agree, be patient and scour used listings, you’ll find something good.

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And I wouldn’t worry about getting a kayak and paddle together. Keep an eye out for either and just try to keep in mind where you want your total spend to be. You’ll enjoy a new kayak with any paddle, but you’ll eventually want the better paddle to get the most performance out of the kayak. Everything I have was bought used and over the years I’ve seen plenty of good paddles for under $200 and composite kayaks for $1000 (US$) and less. The fact that you have all summer to watch the used market for a good deal will help.

Paddle length will come up too. For a fairly narrow touring kayak and with your size, I think a 220cm would be a safe bet, and maybe leaning toward even shorter rather than longer. I’m 6 ft and like a 220, but others of your height might have more relevant advice.

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Get the lightest paddle you can afford. And get one that is the right length. Based on your size & width of kayak, I would think a 210 or even 205 cm. Also, I suspect you are a high angle paddler based on your preference for speed so be sure to purchase a high angle blade if this is actually the case.

All carbon fiber in paddles is great but expensive. I opt for carbon shaft and fiberglass blades in my Werner paddles. A trade off of weight vs cost.

Be careful with a used paddle as most I see for sale are people trying to get rid of longer paddles.

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I’m 5’8" and prefer my 205 cm Lendal Cadence, though I’ll sometimes still use my 215cm of same, depending on the boat. The 215 is my primary backup. I’ve not found good paddles difficult to sell when you’re ready for a change.

As an older lad with an arthritic left shoulder, I use a low angle stroke. My Euro is a 220 cm. Carbon Werner and I also have an equally light GP. I use either and carry the other as a spare. It can be nice during the day to switch to a different paddle style.

There is nothing wrong with a longer paddle, its just the in thing now to go short, it used to be the opposite, it’s more so what you feel comfortable with.

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I find my paddle doesn’t feel long enough as I’m almost hitting the sides of the boat and dont Have the option of a " low angle " stroke
My paddle is 230 cm I believe but honestly for a 28" boat it doesn’t feel wide enough.

Dear TreyEden,
You’ve definitely come to the right place to get great advice on kayaks. There are so many to choose from it seems impossible to know where to begin. The best place to start is reading up on the various hull shapes and designs so you will know what the general characteristics a particular hull design will offer you. Of course, it is always best to test paddle a kayak you are interested in but this is not often possible or feasible. So the next best thing to do is, once you’ve identified a particular kayak you are interested in, search on this site for any reviews on that specific boat. They are generally very accurate and helpful in getting an idea of what that kayak is like to paddle in various conditions. Personally, I was in the “same boat” (pun intended) as you are several years ago. I decided on the Wilderness Systems Tempest 165 and believe it is an absolutely great choice for your consideration. You are the perfect size and weight for this particular boat and unlike the larger sister, the Tempest 170, it is relatively low volume and will be much less likely to weathercock. Also, it will perform much better for you if you are just out paddling, as the Tempest 170, being a larger volume boat, needs either a fairly large load or a heavier paddler to perform at its best.

Both kayaks come with a retractable skeg for paddling in windy conditions but I find that they track amazingly well without deploying the skeg and they respond very well to correcting strokes or edging for keeping them on course. I usually never use the skeg unless I’m paddling is strong winds, (>15mph) that are quartering stern. The Tempest is a true sea kayak and can handle very challenging conditions. They are both large enough to carry a week’s worth of gear if you want to go on a longer excursion but I think the 165 is much more playful and fun for day paddling or for a quick fitness paddle. As for speed, these are not racing kayaks but are very fast sea kayaks. At 16.5 to 17 feet long and about 21.5 inch beam they have less primary stability than you are currently used to but once you get the feel for them, they are exceptionally stable, especially in rough conditions. Also, the seating in the Tempest is probably the best in the business for comfort and adjustability. Once dialed in, you feel like you are wearing the kayak rather than sitting in it and they offer all day comfort.

Wilderness Systems makes very high quality kayaks and are excellent value for money. The Tempest models have been in production for years, a testament to their popularity and quality, and they are plentiful enough to be found on the resale market. The only downside to these kayaks, as with any rotomolded polyethylene kayak, is they are a bit on the heavy side. Mine weighs about 55 lbs, not a feather weight, but definitely manageable for car topping. Fiberglass boats will save a little (5-10lbs) but are much more fragile and prone to damage if you are not super careful with them.

I hope this helps and if you have any additional questions about the Tempest, please feel free to ask, I’d be very happy to help you in your decision making process. Whatever you end up with, I’m sure you will love the performance and enjoyment that sea kayaks can offer, whether out on the open waters or on a quiet lake or river.

The longer and narrower a kayak, the faster if will be. Hull shape also plays a role. For just paddling, your kayak is fine, but if you want to go faster, farther and develop as a paddler you will definitely need to upgrade. There are surf skis and K1 racing kayaks for those who want to go super fast and don’t really need high stability or care too much for long days on the water. Those boats are really fun but the paddler has to provide the stability both with bracing strokes and hip movements. The hull designs are inherently unstable.

With a sea kayak, you trade off top speed for stability and all day comfort. I have a sea kayak and K1 racing kayak. I love the K1 for all out fitness workouts and it has definitely forced me to become a much better paddler, but for sheer enjoyment and the ability to relax on the water, the sea kayak is much better. If I could only have one, it would be the sea kayak. The difference in speed is about 1.5 to 2 miles per hour. Sea kayak averages about 4.5mph while in the K1 I get 6-6.5mph for the same effort. (when I don’t capsize that is) I’d never think of taking the K1 out in windy conditions but the sea kayak is un-phased by wind. (Just for the record, I’m 58 years old so my speeds are not what they could be for someone like you)

I refer to paddling at speed “Dancing on the water”. I have always been a fast paddler, I can’t help myself. All of my boats are long and skinny, and when I get on the water, all I want to do is go fast. I am primarily a solo paddler, so I don’t have to wait for anyone. I have 4 carbon fiber wing paddles, each one a different length and blade size I have learned that a shorter paddle, 205 to 210 is an ideal length and smaller blade size increase my cadence. Even at 69 years old, I can manage 6.5 mph for about 20 seconds, but I can cruise all day at 4.5 mph.

My main ride is my 18’3" Artisan Millennium. She is long and thin, fast and dances across the water.

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Andy, I’ve always thought you were a younger guy, say 45-50. Keep on keeping on.

Trey, you are only about an hour from Frontenac Outfitters. My friend Dennis, who lives in Kingston, took me there when I was visiting (I live in Pennsylvania but drove up there to paddle with him and his outing group, Cataraqui Canoe and Kayak Club.) They are an excellent kayak dealer who has rentals and instruction and they are located right on a lake so you can test paddle boats they have in stock. They’ll be able to direct you to the most appropriate models and help you find a kayak that fits you physically and gives you the performance you want.

The correct paddle length is when, with the majority of a correctly performed forward paddle stroke, the entire blade, no more and no less. is fully in the water and you are not hitting the side of the boat. This will achieve maximal efficiency with that paddle. A low angle paddling style will use a longer paddle than a high angle style. To check how well your paddle is matched to your person, boat, an style, just look at the water line on your paddle after traveling a ways using a forward stroke.

As to paddle weight, for my boat it takes about eight double sided strokes to go .01 miles. So for a 10 mile trip, for every extra ounce of weight the paddle is, I would be throwing about an extra half ton of weight.

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My uncle recommended me that shop yesterday ! I might check it out when the plague ends since apparently they allow you go test certain models.

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Frontenac is one of the best kayak dealer shops I have ever been in, and I have visited dozens, from Vancouver to Florida. They stock an incredible range of boats and gear.

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