This is what it looks like when a bunch of folks get caught in the “inside” of a bigger than expected wave… An initial pounding and then a trail of swimmers left in the impact zone for some more pounding by follow up waves.
Thankfully, these folks are generally in prime shape for extended hold downs and long swims…
Yeah… the only “lesson” for surf paddlers to always keep an eye to the horizon. There is also a good possibility for a larger than usual set that will require a quick sprint farther out beyond the “usual” lineup.
Great photography. I moved to Huntington Beach, CA 50 years ago because the waves were better.
I have never surfed anything bigger than 10-12 feet, but the increase in the power of the water as wave size increases is hard to fathom.
Surfing is addictive for some people. Breaks like Mavericks and Jaws and a handful of others are extreme and require skills most people don’t have. The use of jet skis have made surfing the giant waves much safer.
Spot on. Except for maybe a handful, I can’t imagine those that would take on Nazare on a big swell without jetski support. And, even with that, It still would require “watermanship” beyond the level of the vast majority of surfers.