In the line up of Endless Summer, or Stepping into Liquid…? Produced by Robert Redford, no less. Something to watch while waiting for next winter swell.
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Big Swell heading towards northern CA. Mavericks contest may be on. Talk about surf porn, check out this video about Mavericks: B)
https://www.theinertia.com/surf/mavericks-big-wave-tour-wsl-women-equal-pay-california/?jwsource=cl
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The Maverick’s video is beautiful. The waves are magical (but scare the heck out of me as I can’t wrap my head around their size). I wonder how the outside surfer made out (@2.03). The inside surfer seemed to be looking in the direction where the other guy disappeared under the wave.
No HBO here so I’ll have to miss Redford’s latest.
@Rookie said:
The Maverick’s video is beautiful. The waves are magical (but scare the heck out of me as I can’t wrap my head around their size). I wonder how the outside surfer made out (@2.03). The inside surfer seemed to be looking in the direction where the other guy disappeared under the wave.No HBO here so I’ll have to miss Redford’s latest.
Carnage…
Yup, you and I both wonder along with the surfer on the outside shoulder. I think the Inside surfer was looking for the big “green room.” Did he make it to the outside? Hope so. Would be like a ton of liquid bricks falling on his head if not.
Look at 30 seconds in, when a surfer paddling got caught right under the cresting break. That brought chills down my spine and the flutter of butterflies in my stomach. Just reminded me some of my own mishaps on WAY, WAY smaller waves when I got flipped a$$ over head backwards and then churned around in the maytag machine…
Good to see that more of the big wave surfers are now using impact vests. Provide protection to the ribs and some flotation., but not enough to prevent duck diving under a breaking wave. Minimizes some of the horror stories by Maverick surfers about get pile driven under to the bottom, running out of air and being confused about which way is up in the turbulent, foamy, cloudy cold water… Makes me think about Mark Foo.
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Forgot… Mark Foo will be forever linked with Mavericks. The big wave break had just bee divulged back then by Jeff Clark, a Half Moon Bay local who surfed the break alone for years. Mark was participating in one of the initial Mavericks contests when he died.
https://www.theinertia.com/surf/6-big-wave-deaths-that-shook-surfing-forever/
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La Mer Considers
Into the roll of mom’s big thunder
she’ll spank you hard then take you under
that heaving bosom once nursed you in,
“Been a good boy?”
Then rise again.
Man Considers
Often ashore
I’ve gazed
into waves
variable
in time
and
force
to consider
do I move out?
Do I move in?
Do I move above?
Do I move under?
Do I move on?
What is the return?
@canoeswithduckheads said:
Man ConsidersOften ashore
I’ve gazed
into waves
variable
in time
and
force
to consider
do I move out?
Do I move in?
Do I move above?
Do I move under?
Do I move on?
What is the return?
An answer – a profile of surfing courage:
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Nietzche’s proof,
Sydney and Colin,
devil there is frownin’,
shark goes on a smilin’
and FDR is right,
gotta put the fear behind,
being human’s likely menace,
let nature surf us to sublime
Mavericks officially called off for tomorrow. The waves are TOO BIG. A very wise call. Here is a video of a serious beat down at another famous Big Wave break - Nazare (Portugal). It is scary just to watch the surfer’s struggle to survive and the valiant efforts of two jetski rescuers who got him out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=281&v=LrNcrwHERpc
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I hope he survived.
Coast Guard cutter practicing rescues close to shore at Ocean Beach San Francisco yesterday …
https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/48391227_345600979357687_910190362721517568_n.jpg?_nc_cat=1&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=d062e2084f12dc3d623620db352a7f0b&oe=5CA37AAF
@Rookie said:
I hope he survived.
He did. Said, he wouldn’t have lasted much longer. When he got to the beach, he was physically depleted and could barely breathe. He was taken to a hospital to check for any injuries but was released.
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@sing said:
@Rookie said:
I hope he survived.He did. Said, he wouldn’t have lasted much longer. When he got to the beach, he was physically depleted and could barely breathe. He was taken to a hospital to check for any injuries but was released.
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Is there anything a surfer can do to protect themselves while being so horribly trashed by the water?
@SeaDart They were practicing rescuing what? Scary photo.
Contest closed, but they went anyway…
https://www.surfer.com/photos/mavericks-freesurf-photo-gallery-craig/
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@Rookie said:
Is there anything a surfer can do to protect themselves while being so horribly trashed by the water?
Back in the day (when Mark Foo died), you never see surfers – including big wave riders – wearing impact/flotation vests. The leashed board is the “PFD”. However, in big wave wipeouts, boards are smashed and leash plug retainers gerint pulled out. I read/hear stories of big wave riders getting driven down to the bottom, held down and tumbled around by the forces of waves, trying to relax and hold their breaths. Hypoxia (and panic) kicks in, the surfer can tell which way is up or down. They finally get to the surface and immediately get hit/tumbled by another big wave… Anyway, the impact vest spare some of the impact of being tumbling around and helps to surface (even with the minimal flotation, the surfer even if s/he gets confused and/or passes out (at this point, hopefully, a dedicated and intrepid rescuer is nearby as seen in the video).
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@sing said:
Mavericks officially called off for tomorrow. The waves are TOO BIG. A very wise call. Here is a video of a serious beat down at another famous Big Wave break - Nazare (Portugal). It is scary just to watch the surfer’s struggle to survive and the valiant efforts of two jetski rescuers who got him out:https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=281&v=LrNcrwHERpc
sing
Wow that looks ffffuuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnking insane. Where’s his bombproof roll?
@qajaqman said:
@sing said:
Mavericks officially called off for tomorrow. The waves are TOO BIG. A very wise call. Here is a video of a serious beat down at another famous Big Wave break - Nazare (Portugal). It is scary just to watch the surfer’s struggle to survive and the valiant efforts of two jetski rescuers who got him out:https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=281&v=LrNcrwHERpc
sing
Wow that looks ffffuuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnking insane. Where’s his bombproof roll?
Forget the bombproof roll. Perfect your bombproof prayer… Sometimes when you get yourself into a situation, it is simply a matter of “by the grace of…”
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Mavericks - They went anyway!
https://www.surfer.com/videos/amp-sessions-mavericks-2018/
A lot of tow-ins. More speed with the jet ski tow and more control with the foot straps. However, mad props to the paddle-in boardies. Takes serious stamina and guts to paddle for and drop in on a moving mountain!
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