I was paddling a friends T-170,and amazed how subtle the skeg operated,and eventually realized it wasn’t deploying,damn that’s less than fun with beam wind and stern quarter waves…
To my question/observation. The plastic housing is off the ferrule going into the skeg box so moving the skeg slider only makes the housing lift up/down at the ferrule. There was a totally rusted out broken hose clip in the compartment and half on the hose. It doesn’t look like there’s enough housing to fit onto the ferrule but I wonder if there wasn’t much housing on the ferrule to begin with and the busted/rusted clip complimented the lack of attachment. Anyone else have feedback/advice for re-attaching the housing? And does anyone else notice the metal clip rusting out?
Some Experience
I rented a T165 a good while back that had the same problem. I was ready to start a long trip and a long way from a kayak shop so I duct taped the plastic housing in place. I put so much tape on there that I bet it’s STILL working fine.
thanks
turns out with elbow grease I got it on but only 1/2" and it looks like there’s about another 3/8" it could fit on,maybe the short connection was an accident or clever quick release to prevent cable buckling as I’ve seen in other wire cable skegs,Duck (quack) Tape it is!
The totally rusted clip is goofy. Necky is going through their stock of rustable coaming mounted backband ratchets just like Perception did with the Avatar,must be a lot of fresh water sea kayaking going on in the board rooms of these companies.
Hey LeeG… never actually seen this
set up on this boat....just wondering, what is the cable housing made of ? Would it be possible to rough/scuff it up and bond with thickened epoxy or 5200? Even it it is plastic (not much sticks to it) having something sort of stiff around the outside might help keep it located. No problem with skeg movement ?
If skeg were sticky it might put more load back to housing. If you can get a tiny bit of silicone onto ferule (not housing) before elbowing it back on it will help the housing slide a little easier / farther down and will not really bond or lock cable in place like some other adhesives would. Will help it stay on too,
Here’s a pic of mine, FWIW
If this helps you, see
http://robcranfill.home.comcast.net/images/SkegAttach.jpg
for a shot of mine, which is barely 4 months old. Sorry I couldn’t get a scale in there, but I suppose you know how fat the tube is (how many times have we heard that? nevermind…)
- rob
Just looked at photo… thanks.
Q: Why that kind of clip?
Might be good to put a SS hose clamp in there. The length of ferule looks long enough for sure.
Still a nice fillet of something around it would be nice IMO.
We bond a brass hose fitting in and use SS clamps on our skeg boxes.
yep
a ss clamp works well in replacing the clip. I’ve done a few when replacing the cable. The setup is completely different on the glass boats. I don’t know why they don’t put a better clamp on. This is the first one I’ve heard of failing tho.
off to the San Juans!
steve
spring steel,
carbon spring steel I guess,absolutely rustworthy,1/2 was in the compartment and the other half on the hose, another 6mo and it would have dissolved completely in the saltwater to a rust stain.
ok,the damn bean counter who thinks no one would notice rusting hardware should have to spend $1500 of their own pay check to buy a rototmolded (doesn’t rust) kayak and paddle the kayak for the entire summer to work,then decide if rusting hardware is ok. After that the members of the board should work retail and explain to a customer why a plastic kayak should have rusting hardware on it.
Sorry guys but when Perception had the rusting ratchets for the back band it was understandable,it’s Perception,but when a Necky Chatham showed up 18mo later with rusted ratchets and the Tempest has a rustable metal clip it makes one wonder if anyone has oversight of a new product from beginning to end.
plastic
I was able to get it about 2/3 the distance back on as shown by the photo above. Maybe it’s a clever failsafe mechanism where a jammed skeg results in a popped housing instead of a buckled wire?
Do the folks actualy installing them …
have any say? Do they even know ? This bothers me on many levels even though I have nothing to do with these boats...... sorry.
misc.
I don’t mean to sound cranky but including rusting hardware on $1500 kayaks when you can get a damn fine lawnmower for $500 or a real fine bicycle for $1000 just makes no sense. Come on,it’s a kayak,goes in salt water. Someone should let the air out of the tires of the corporate owners Mercedes for that kind of oversight.