Appreciate his avocation, insight and example of how to approach surfing as an aging wave rider… 
Looks like some mellow surf in the Northeast breaks this Saturday. 
sing (soul surfer wannabe)
Oh yeah… saw this Gerry Lopez “Lightening Bolt” surf board hanging on the wall of a Newport breakfast diner. Was there after a nice dawn patrol waveski session earlier in April. Pretty cool.
sing
Thanks for sharing this Sing! The whole clip had a peaceful element and was a great reminder to enjoy the ride, be connected to your environment and others, as we play in nature.
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Oh yeah, Gerry Lopez at Pipeline. No cooler surfer in the 70s.
Yeah, in contrast to some of the modern day boardies, who maintain this aggressive macho demeanor out in the line-up. There is also a “rip it up” on the waveface style that seems to say, “I’m gonna ‘conquer’ this wave.” Ultimately, mother nature doesn’t care and she always wins in the end.
sing