threading bungee cords

I’m trying to replace old one eighth inch bungee cords on a CD Gulfstream kayak with three sixteenth inch cords, which look like they should fit through the existing holes in the recessed deck clips. But they are a tight fit, and as soon as one tries to push the cords through the eyes, they thicken and make it impossible. Anyone got any ideas that do not include going back to eighth inch cord, or replacing the deck clips with ones with wider holes?

Anyone used heat shrink sleeving?

a bit of pain here but it worked for me
Melt then end of the bungee cord and stretch the melted nylon sheath and elastic so that it thins a bit. you can shove that through and just pull it with pliers. Like the aglet for a shoelace.

Heat shrink should work
If you let it protrude beyond the end of the bungee. I’ve used it to tie down loose ends of bungee but it slides off frequently.

Good Luck


Have someone grip the bungee material (core) with pliers. Pull hard on the standing part of the shock cord while you slowly cut the core as close to the sheath as you can.

This will leave a part of the sheath with no core behind it. At that point you can melt the end to make a tiny bit to thread through the fittings or just pull the sheath and push it through the fitting without melting.

Good luck!


Forget exactly how the CD things are…

– Last Updated: Aug-10-05 5:23 AM EST –

but .... can you loosen them up from the inside to get a bit more room? Then cinch back down ? Remove and redrill hole ?

If not get the good bunji ( the stuff with multi filaments, not just 6 ) cut it with fresh scissors or utility blade. Pass through a flame for a couple seconds and burn your fingers for fun and necessity by pinching while twisting the bitter end of the cord's housing .... do not wet your fingers at first because you must do this twice to get a sort of 'point' going. O.K to skip this and do as above but you still have to do it to get a proper end even after you get it through the hole.

Now push it against the hole but think TWIST 75 % and push 25.... the twisting will get it through.... that little diameter difference should still go through while you hold the bunji with your fingers and hold it with the minimum distance between the hole and your grip..... the further back you hold it the fatter it gets as you try to push it.... if you feel you need a bit more push go for the skinny needle nose lineman's pliers over the vice grips.

The above tip ( JED's) about pulling the cover to a point can be even easier if you grab the pulled over sheath point from the other side of the hole and as you hold it tight s t r e t c h the bunji out from BOTH ends.... this will decrease the diameter of the bunji and really make things easy enough to maybe go to 1/4" if you want.

Fly tying

– Last Updated: Aug-10-05 7:25 PM EST –

Good suggestions so far. Bungies can be obnoxious little bastads, can't they?

I have a fly-tying bobbin that I have loaded with very thin waxed whipping twine (West Marine, or a good chandlery). I whip the bungie, which squeezes the rubber portion to a smaller diameter. Cut the bungie close to the whipping, and melt the nylon cover. FYI, the rubber will BURN rather than melt.


Stretch them and tape them
I went through this the other day. I stretched the bungee out and wraped it with good electrical tape (scotch 33) I then cut it with a razor knife. The result was a nice, tight little “head” that was about an inch long. It threaded right through the holes. One could make the “head” as long as needed.

Good Luck,


What a great topic and replys
I’ve been going through the exact same problem on my Gulfstream and hadn’t come up with a solution. Sounds like I now have several to try. Thanks all.