another alternative
Yes, l like in kayak ways too. I am currently thinking of two methods.
One, I have used before successfully. It involves the redfishkayak method and putting the hole through the day hatch instead of through the hull. That way you can refill the water container easily.
It espcecially helps if the water container has a quick disconnect method built into the container outlet or tube fittings.
Two, placing the outlet through the hull right in front of the cockpit coaming. I have a medium knee tube that would accept several liters of water.
Each has different advantages. Having it in the kneetube makes for easier access but puts the wate higher reducing stability. Putting it in the day hatch makes for a longer tube and the increases the getting snagged on things in a capsize issue.
Thanks for all the ideas here, great utility!
Good point on day hatch
If you have a day hatch - easier to put the hole through the hatch cover (or buy a spare just for this).
day hatch idea
I think this is a great idea, especially with the ‘british’ style boats with vcp hatches, if you cut the hole tight to match the OD of the hydration tube you will be watertight.
On boats like the QCC series its not such an easy idea and with my QCC I think I will emulate the Redfish method.
Anybody contact Redfish yet about obtaining the part/piece needed?
the Redfish system
just showed a co-worker the Redfish pic showing his hydration tube leaving the kayaks. Co-worker exclaims that it is simply a rubber grommet sized to fit the hydration tube, that and nothing more…take hydration tube to Lowes/H.Depot and get a grommet just slighly smaller, drill hole…done for $0.50
This is the way I’m leaning for the QCC left side behind my back.
Rubber (flexible nylon) grommets -link
The boat stores have them too - usually I see them in-store in a small pack with a few sizes. They’re in the electrical section.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/25614
Note there are three key dimensions - hole diameter you cut in the panel (deck), thickness of panel (deck material)the grommet will be installed in (1/16 should work on QCCs - amazing how thin the layup is as strong as it is). and the through hole diameter.
but not a new idea
My surfski hatch has the hole from the factory for this. Forgot about the hatch earlier as I know Jack has a QCC.
anybody know the
diameter of a typical Camelbak hydration tube?
it will be a week before i get off work and back home to measure.
If i knew I would order some grommets from the link greyak posted and have them on the way.
Robert
they vary
warning mileage may vary, Camel tubes have several sizes now, so you had better check first.
Evan
subdeck hydration
I have a Custom Kayaks Icon surfski that I put a hydration system in this past summer. If you want to make your own inexpensive tubing system to plumb it you might try sugar tubing that we use during sugaring season. The tubing and fittings are inexpensive and easy to put together. I have a 1.5 liter bag on either side of the foam spine in the ski that join and come up through the deck between my knees. Both bags and the drinking tube have a quick release which makes putting them in/out fast. I often see surfskis with the hydration system on the rear deck attached with duct tape. I wanted to lower my center of gravity and make it all more secure. Just ask if you want information about where to find this stuff.
All mine are 3/8" (10 mm) NM
Hole thru day hatch cover
If anyone tries this, or already has this set up please let us know if there are any drawbacks or downsides to this method. I’m wondering about leakage, tearing, or splitting of the rubber hatch.
Hatch holes
The hatch on my ski is hard plastic screw in. Hole factory drilled (but not a hard thing to do.
For the thick rubber hatches a clean cut would be preferable to seal around the tube - and prevent nicks or irregular/rough edges where tears can start.
There are large punches (for leather/fabric) that might work - or you can make one by sharpening the end of a piece of pipe and using that (copper plumbing stuff should come in some aceptable diameter and is quick and easy to cut and file).
Not saying I've done this - or that it will work - but should beat hacking through with a knife.
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Try J J canoe
I found an outfit in New York state this past summer that has a nice system for doing this, has quick disconnect valves etc to be used. I used it on my wife’s kayak for the Yukon River Quest race and she was very pleased with the result. Their kit includes clips that hold the tube on to the life vest, and a velcro attachement for the tube on front of the PFD for easy tear away should you flip.
www.jjcanoe.com
PS the people at JJ were great, shipped the stuff without payement and I simply sent them a money order once the stuff got here. I cannot say enough about their great service.
We have bought a lot through…
J & J and I agree with you in that they are great people.
They have a trailer and open shop at most of the major northern races, and have come to the rescue of many paddlers who need some quick gear or repairs.
I didn’t realize that they had a through hull system. I’ll have to check it out.
We got the thingies with the velcro that go around your neck to hold the tube a long time ago, and I wouldn’t race without it.
It has saved me missing valuable paddle strokes on many occasions
Thanks for the heads up!
Cheers,
JackL
I misunderstood you.
I thought you were referring to a through the hull system.
I just got off their site, and they don’t have one.
I guess you got the same set up that I have.
JackL
It works!!
Well actually if you do it right they do have a thu hull system. I used a quick disconnect as my thru hull fitting, this attached to another quck disconnect attached to the hose clipped to the PFD and on up to the velcro piece. Inside the hull iI used another quick disconnect to connect the water bag to the quick disconnect fitting on the hull via another piece of tubing. This way I could discoonect the water bag for easy removal or placement in/from the boat without spilling water everwhere. The quick disconnect on the top side of the hull was epoxied on, this lets you easily attach or detach to the system when you get in or out of the boat. It meant that for our race which has a running start we wer able to get my wife connected and on the water in all of 30 seconds. The quick disconnect is self sealing when not connected so no water leaks through it into the boat. Easy, cheap and fast.
Drill thru deck
If you drill throught the deck, will any regular drill bit work without chipping the deck material?
Making holes
Put masking tape over to minimize chipping.
To really control it, mark the hole (outer diameter and center), drill a smaller hole centered inside, and then use something like a dremel tool with mini sanding drum to enlarge it out to the mark. Light touch = good results.
thru hull
I would be careful using a dremel, they can sometimes be difficult to control. I simply taped a spot on the deck with masking tape and used the appropriate sized drill bit. I did not have any problems, just take your time.