I picked up a used Hullavator 897XT on craigslist. I want to mount it on my Yakima bars, but the clamps don’t really seem to get tight enough to keep from spinning. Are there any tricks or tips for getting Thule items to mount tightly on Yakima bars? I couldn’t find much in the board archives and I sure can’t afford to replace my Yakima rack with a Thule. Thanks.
try making a shim
a short piece of garden hose, slit lengthwise to fit over the round bar for the bracket to clamp onto might do.
I have used Hullavators on Yakima
round bars. At first Iwas concerned about how they rotated, but then I realized that they were in fact sort of “self adjusting” to the contours of the kayak. I just quit being concerned.
… of the previous suggestions and then if you really want to pin it in place level the Hull-a-vators to each other and then drill a pilot hole into the Yakima bar through the provided hole in the bar mount assembly which is usually used to bolt the bar mount to formed aluminum aero bars with a T slot. Once drilled install a pan head stainless steel screw.
See you on the water,
The River Connection, Inc.
Hyde Park, NY
Thanks for the ideas. I ended up using two SS automotive hose clamps on each bar. One on either end of the lower bracket and facing in opposite directions. Once both cradles rotated to conform to the angle on the hull, I just tightened them up. The clamps get a good grip on the bar coating and aren’t going anywhere.
I use Yakima bars with my Hullavator
and don’t have any problems.
Hubby sets it up and just tightens the Hullavator to the bar really well without any add on items.
Best of luck with your Hullavator. I love mine. It fits great on my Ford Explorer factory.
As a 5’2", mid 60’s person, this has been a Godsend! It is so easy to put my boat on and take it off the vehicle.
Just make sure you get locks for both the Thule and Yakima. If you order locks, you’ll won’t need extra keys as they both come with 2 for each lock.
straddling the tower?
You didn’t mention this and if you bought it used, then perhaps you don’t know this; it is really important to have the Hullavator straddle the towers. I haven’t found a vehicle where the Hullavator can sit inside the towers and work without hitting the side of the vehicle and if positioned outside the tower, it creates too much leverage and can damage your rack. If the Hullavator isn’t straddling a tower, then I can see it rotating excessively. When straddling a tower, they act as stops keeping the unit rotating to the point of hitting your vehicle.
I found segments of bicycle innertube works well to protect the crossbar and limit unwanted rotation. It’s a simpler solution than trying to create a set-screw which will encourage your crossbars to rust prematurely.