Thule Slipstream Rooftop Carrier

Has anyone used this kayak carrier? Seems like the perfect thing for my new (06) Honda CRV.

Go here and scroll down to the video.

Haven’t seen one in person…
but it looks like it would save the rear roof from dents and scratches. About time someone came up with that.

I’m not normally into
expensive rack do dads, but I have to agree that seems like a pretty slick setup and I even forewarded that to two people I know for which it would be a great solution.

I can’t agree with what’s been said.
Seems like a complete waste of money without much benefit or ease at all. Still have to lift the boat up to that point, and I can see someone who’s already struggling ramming the bow through the back window with a slip.

I’ve see the descriptions of the Hullavator, and that looks a lot easier to me. But neither is worth the money considering no one is actually there to load the boat for you . . . .

I think…

– Last Updated: Sep-24-07 9:50 AM EST –

... the idea here is to move the rear roller much nearer to the rear of the auto during loading. Many rear roof racks on SRVs are way too far forward to load a yak from the rear without a significant chance of damaging the rear window.

This set up helps prevent that.

Stevie Ray Vaughn
has a roofrack?

If this accessory works half as well as the Hullivator (for half the price) it will be a winner. I have a Hullivator and it is a fine accessory for those of us who are aging and have discs going south.


Depending on how far back
you can mount the bars on your vehicle, I’d look instead to a set of saddles for the front and either the Thule Rollercoatser or Yakima Hully Rollers on the rear. That way you could still have roll-on capability, yet have it far enough to the rear that making contact with the vehicle won’t be an issue. Plus you’d save about $100.00 on the setup. There are also some roller-type devices out there that work especially with SUV’s and hatchbacks.

Other than that, I never saw the need for the this entire setup in one neat package that costs that much more - especially when you still have to buy the towers and loadbars, anyway.

I’ve installed them…

– Last Updated: Sep-24-07 9:08 AM EST –

...for folks, and as long as you're willing to make the investment in a set of Thule bars to replace your factory bars, they're an EXCELLENT option to traveling around with a piece of carpet to protect your paint job.

Truth is that most factory bars are set so far in from the actual corner of the rear roof line that using the Hully Roller/Glide option isn't really that practical, imho. The Slipstream answers that problem, and is much simpler and lighter than the Hullavator (also an excellent product, but quite a bit heavier and quite a bit more expensive.)

Yakima bars…
I believe I read that you can also use this set -up with round Yakima bars.

Saves the car
Have one on my vehicle and I don’t miss scuffing the paint or putting the bow on the rear window of the car one bit. Also spreads the saddles out much further than many load bars would normally be set for a gentler and more secure carry of the kayak. Max. spread between saddles is 55", max. extention of rear roller from rear bar is 26". Disconnects with just 4 thumbscrews so it comes off and goes back on in a jiffy.

If it helps you in your situation, use it.

See you on the water,


The River Connection, Inc.

Hyde Park, NY