That might be frugal, but
The EMT is thin walled electrical conduit, and not nearly as strong as Yakama rigid PVC coated pipes.
You might get away with it for one boat, but put a couple of heavy plastic ones on it, and it will bend.
I used it for a front cantilevered stabilizer attached to my Yakama bars for a 23 foot long tandem kayak, but there is no way I would use it for cross support.
Cheers,
JackL
Aftermarket Crossbars.
I honestly don’t know what “EMT” tubing is, so I’ll take Jack’s word for it that it’s thin-walled electrical conduit. In that case, I wouldn’t use it either. However, you can get much thicker-walled stuff from various places, even essentially the same stuff that Yakima makes their cross bars from (they put a thin plastic coating on it before they sell it to you). Any reasonably thick-walled pipe or steel tubing (I use the word “tubing” to describe material not expressly sold for use as “pipe”) will do the job. “Outsourcing” in this case is a good idea - just take Jack’s advice and be careful not to choose anything too flimsy.
I’m sure there are…
– Last Updated: Aug-04-09 9:21 PM EST –
advantages to each. I'd go with the best buy at the time.
I've used Yakima as my rack came with a used boat I purchased.
I'm very pleased, and my other racking needs have since been Yakima.
If you know the part numbers and descriptions you need, you can save a lot of money shopping e-bay, Pnet classifieds, craigslist, etc.
If you want it right away, pony up the bucks, the thing will probably last you a lifetime, if you take care of it.
Don't be afraid of self-install, if you're reasonably handy. It will teach you how they are designed to work, and how to adjust them. You'll be much more comfortable taking them off the vehicle when not in use. And better prepared to adjust the tightness when the need arises.
T
I’ve had both
Both companies make great gear that is strong and will very likely last longer than your car.
For Yakima the round bars let the accessories twist so you can easily adjust the angle to fit the rocker of any boat. On Thule the accessories are help firmly at one and only one angle so they can never get way out of adjustment but they are never perfect for any boat.
Lately I’ve been mad at both companies because they make you buy all new stuff when you get a different car. Thule told me I’m sorry we no longer carry that part for your rack they are 5 years old. Yakima said " I’m sorry we don’t sell clips for those tower to fit that newer car. You’ll have to buy newer towers and new clips"
The material you are talking about
is PVC coated rigid iron conduit.
It is usually gray in color. It is used strictly in the electrical industry in corrosive environments, and in coastal or wet environments.
I used to specify it in Bleach and chemical areas in Pulp Mills, and Recovery Boilers.
Cheers,
jackL
I get PO’d at the car companies for …
– Last Updated: Aug-05-09 3:14 PM EST –
their constant roof rack changes.
You get a vehicle that has rails and removable cross bars, and then the exact same model vehicle a few years later has non removable cross bars and rails that have permanent bars running for and aft that require clips.
I don't blame Yakima and Thule for not keeping up with their changes.
Believe it or not, when I look at a new vehicle now, the first thing I look at is the roof rack arrangement, and if the factory rack is not removable and easily changed out to a Yakama system , I'll walk away without ever even looking at the rest of the vehicle.
Cheers,
JackL
Sorry but
I have had three “heavy plastic” boats on it and not a bend in sight. Yes, it is not as thick walled as the Yakima pipes but it doesn’t cost an arm and a leg either.
Amen!
Jack,
This is one of the few topics you and I agree on, fancy that! 
My wife and I were recently looking to replace our 8-year old Volvo V70 wagon (non-XC), which had been just a great gear/kayak hauler.
We took a long look at the new Toyota Venza. Nice vehicle, plenty of room, but the factory rail system sucks. It is limited in space/utility and currently NO after market accessories fit it.
Just to keep this in the spirit of the original thread… I use both Yakima and Thule and I like both manufacturer’s base rack systems. I am not always wild about some of their add-on accessories. The Hull-a-vator (too fiddly, is that a word?) and Yakima’s J-cradles come to mind (I prefer Malone’s).
We have them both
The Yakima system on the new car and the Thule on the old for our canoes. I do like the simple way the Yakima snaps into place vs the Thule. Both are very secure racks that allow for confident and worry free hauling. We have the gunwale brackets on both and like them alot. You can grab an end of load bar and shake the car as hard as you want and it will not loosen up or slide.
Tom
Hmmmmm
I don’t have a clue as who you are, but it must be either tie downs, rolling, or PFD’s in which case I am in the minority which makes you the winner!
Feel better now?
cheers,
jackL
You’re not being inventive people
Hose clamps? Duct tape? No no, do it right like I did. Drill through the 2X4’s and your vehicle roof and bolt it on. Be sure to use big shoulder washers on the inside and they will help hold the roof liner up. Then if you want your interior washed for free you don’t have to worry about the liner coming down.
Yakima all the way. I was a fool and shopped the internet too. I wouldn’t trade my rack with Mako’s and Hully Rollers for anything.
Roof Rack
You may want to do a search on this website, Odyclub.com, there have been concerns about the strength of the Ody racks.
speak for yourself
Your accounting shows us all that your time is worth nothing.