Totally new

And like you said,
under 1000 is good. For example, if you buy a kayak at about 8 or 900 dollars, you should be pretty satisfied. If your looking for good plastic touring kayak manufacturers: check out the following. Most of these also make good composites if you want to spend alittle more. Keep in mind, the only real downside of Plastic is that it is deformable. Dont put it in any real awkward angle or position for long term storage. Otherwise, its a very strong material. In the event that the kayak deforms, leaving it outside upside down in the sun on a hot day for awhile will most likley pop any dents out to the original shape. Deformation is no longer a permanant problem- its fixible unless its extremley sevre which almost never happens.



-Perception

-Current Designs

-Wilderness Systems

-Prijon

-Dagger

-Old Town

-Necky

-Ocean Kayak

-cobra

-hobie

the web
Brian,



Just understand that the advice you get on a web forum may be from people with varied experience. One of the posters here giving you feedback, while meaning well, is a 16 year old.

The gamut
the range from tooling around to fitness kayaking goes from $400 boats to … well … as much as you’d like to spend.



Some things to think about before you start picking potential boats:

What type of water do you want to paddle? Sea and large lakes? Small lakes and easy rivers? Mild whitewater? Serious whitewater? The boats get progressively shorter as you move through that list with many boats capable of handling several types of conditions.



What type of boat appeals to you? There are sit in models, sit on top models, canoes, and different materials that each may be made of. These affect weight, durability, longevity, and sometimes performance on the water. There is a reason you will see a lot of composite sea kayaks and a lot of plastic whitewater boats on the market.



Are you going to fish and photograph a lot? If you will often want to relax and take it easy, a wider more stable boat means you can do so without worrying about flipping over. SOTs are great for fishing as are some open cockpit sit insides like the Pungo series. If you plan to stay on the move, a less stable, but longer and faster kayak may be what you want.



Try as many as you can before you buy a new boat, or buy used so it’s easy to recoup your money if/when you change your mind. Find a local kayak/canoe club where they have regular paddling events for various types of paddling that interest you.



For the Alaska trip, you may have paddled a big long sea kayak – probably a very stable model. If you are near a coast or have large lakes nearby that would work for you. But these are often not the ideal kayaks for small twisty waters where you have to turn often in tight spaces and they can be tough to control on moving water and more serious whitewater.



Your size and weight can also affect what boats are available to you. There are few boats under 12 foot that paddle well with my 220 lb frame.



jim

Totally new
Awesome! I’ve seen a lot of those brands around. Good to know about the plastic.



Thanks

Brian

Totally new
If the 16 year old knows a ton about Kayaks I’m welcome to any advice I can get. :slight_smile:



Brian

Totally new
Cool, yeah we are going to be in large lakes (Lake Mead, Lake Powell, Mohave, etc…) and potentially in smaller midwester US lakes in Wisconsin and Illinois. I don’t see us doing any whitewater although a leisurely trip down the calmer parts of the colorado river might happen.



Picture taking deffinetly, fishing? Although I’ve read a ton about fishing from a kayak I’ll probably stick to my float tube for that.



I’m about 220 also 6’2 . My wife is pretty small, 5’3 125. So she may have more options then me.



Are the cheaper kayaks more likely to have annoying equipment failures, leaks, foot pegs breaking, sloppy adjustments, bugie cords breaking etc…? I want to use my Kayak not be screwing with it all the time.







Thanks again.



Brian

not so much a reliability issue
as much as performance and fit. Many less expensive boats are often wider and shorter which generally means slower and the extra width often means not as sea worthy (bigger waves coming from the side). They also might not have a skeg or rudder and yet may somewhat need one on a lake with a stiff cross wind. Also softer plastic might not be as stiff which also affects performance (nicer plastic boats now have fairly stiff plastic which helps).



Your first decision will be sit on top or sit inside. The former being easier to casually hop on and go and less hassle if you fall in, but the latter generally being a drier ride and more able in rougher water (though there are exceptions on both sides).

Keep in mind…

– Last Updated: Mar-24-09 12:21 PM EST –

..that while you say you are going to only paddle on lakes now that can and probably will change. Within three months of buying my first 10.5' rec boat I bought my 16'Capella sea kayak. In fact, many folks have more than one boat for varying conditions. My husband started off with a 15' Prijon touryak sea kayak and we're shopping for a shorter rec boat for those smaller lakes and rivers. Most folks I know have a few boats, not just one.

Since you are just starting out I'd go to that symposium in San Diego if you can. Look at everything, ask a lot of questions (the only stupid question is the one that goes unasked) and sit in and paddle every boat you can. Then check out places like Craig's List and see what's out there used. Find a reputable kayak dealer near you and check out what they have. I guess I'm lucky because in NJ we have quite a few kayak dealers. I don't know anything about what's out in Las Vegas.

Fact is, you don't have to buy a $2500 boat to start off. A good dealer will steer you away from that if you are a beginner. Composite boats are wonderful but not at all necessary. My husband and I both own plastic sea kayaks and love them! As fairly new kayakers we wanted boats that we could bash into a rock or drag along the shore and not worry about it. Your navigation skills will take awhile to develop and the last thing you want is to have to worry about ripping a hole in your hull. Plastic boats are heavier and not as fast but they take much more abuse. Just don't leave them out in the sun too long in that hot desert sun or else you will find them deformed. Your challenge will be to store them in a shady spot in between paddling sessions.

Also you are going to need a way to transport your kayaks so you'll want to research car carriers or trailers and add that into your price. A good car transport system will cost as much if not more than a kayak. Not to mention paddles (more important than the boat itself!) and personal floatation devices (PFDs). These are all important aspects to using and enjoying your kayaks.

In any case, based on what you are tell us here I'd go for something plastic in the 12'-14' range. That's long enough so you can move along but short enough so you can turn and maneuver well.

Sit in and paddle as many boats as you can and figure out what it is that you want. You'll also get a feel for the quality of the boats. One reason I bought my Capella was because I felt it was of higher quality then the other boats I paddled. Check and see how "user friendly" the boats are when you are actually use them. If a part feels flimsy or falls off in your hand then you'll get a pretty good idea of what's up with quality. That is why you want to paddle as many different boats as you can. Also read some of the reviews here on Paddle.net as they can be very helpful as well. But above all, paddle the boat yourself! Don't assume something is good or bad based on what someone else says.

I'd see if perhaps you can find something used because you can get a good reduction in price (but not always so make sure you do research first on pricing because I've seen used boats go for more than new!) If not, a dealer might have a nice demo or leftover you can pick up at a reduced price. Do as much research as you can beforehand. The internet is a good place for that and if you can get to San Diego this weekend then do so. That sounds like a great place to start.

BTW, once you get your boats take some lessons so you can enjoy and be safe in them. Good luck!

advice
The advice given by the 16 year old (who may or may not be 16, doesn’t really matter) is just as good as most of the advice on this thread.

You mentioned fitness
in your list of activities. When you say that, to me, ease of cruising becomes a desirable trait. Im not familiar with the Vegas region and what type of bodies of water, in regards to size you will be paddling. But, as mentioned in several posts, used is a great way to go, maybe a composite (fiberglass) could be attained for a decent price. Check out the p.net classifieds.



Nothing wrong with going with a longer boat than 12 -14’. Consider even entering the ‘sea kayak’ range at about 16’ to help with more miles and easier cruising



oh,



and welcome to the water



James

AOW

Totally new
Thank you! Yeah, Lake Meade is the largest man-made lake in the world. It’s huge covering two states. (Nevada and Arizona). So it’s like the ocean (sorta) just with out the waves! :slight_smile:



Brian

Totally new
I concur. Anyone is welcome to give advice.



Brian

Totally new
WOW! Thanks for all the info. Sounds like I need to get out and start paddling and see what I like. :slight_smile:



Brian

Example selections
just to get you looking.



For you:

http://www.wildernesssystems.com/product/index/products/touring/touring_tsunami/tsunami_145_touring/



I’d stay in the 14 to 16 foot range and look for the touring boats and shorter sea kayaks. Those made for large paddlers will likely be a better fit. There are a myriad of boats in this size range. Try them and find one that feels right on the water if at all possible. If you are deciding between two and one of them feels a little tippy, pick the tippy one. You will adjust to that quickly and most often it will end up being a better performing boat in the end.



For the wife:

http://www.neckykayaks.com/kayaks/touring/eliza_polymer.shtml



She can get by with a slightly shorter boat and most likely narrower. But there’s no reason hers can be a 15 or 16 footer. Center of gravity is totally different for many women, so what feels very tippy to you might be perfect for her. She might end up with a 13 footer that is just as fast as you in a 15 footer. Again, trying them on the water is the best way to discover what she likes.



Plastic is low maintenance (almost none), but has a lifespan that is maybe half to one third that of composites. Composites can be repaired, but may need repairs more often. Plastic is heavier, very heavy after a long paddle. Composites are pricey, but look great. In this range performance will be similar, especially in the over $1000 category.



Buy good paddles and good, comfy PFDs. You may keep them through several boats if you really like the sport.



Guys and gals in your local club are the real experts for the boats and gear that are appropriate…



jim

Totally new
WOW! Those look sweet and sound exactly like what I’m looking for. It seems a little spendy for my first boat though. Is that what I can expect to spend for something that will ensure beginner success and enjoyment?



I had read that there is a difference in “initial stability” and other stability. I’ve also heard that the “Tippy” feeling is, like you said, something that I will get used to and will ultimately benefit from.



Brian

These are pretty high
end plastic boats that have very good performance – boats that most people (who do large water) move up to as their 2nd, or 3rd boat, but boats that people tend to keep a while because they are good performers. You could easily buy and keep these for a decade and need nothing else – assuming they feel good to you.



The cheaper options are to get something similar used at probably 50 to 60% of the new price or to buy smaller boats (e.g. 14 and 12 footers). You might be perfectly content in a boat like this:

http://www.perceptionkayaks.com/carolina-14

And the Carolina is a good boat, but the Tsunamis are a significant upgrade for big water paddling.



If you just want to get your feet wet, you could even go with a beefy (higher volume) 12 or 13 footer, but that will limit your range as paddling will feel a bit more like plowing water, so 10 to 20 mile trips will simply not be practical or fun for that matter. This Pungo will hold 325 lbs, but it doesn’t promise to go fast with that much weight:

http://www.wildernesssystems.com/product/index/products/recreational/recreational_pungo/pungo_120_recreational/



Check out some local used boats on eBay or Craigslist (try PaddleSwap.com) and then look at the reviews on this site to eliminate boats that don’t sound like a good fit for you. There is a decent chance you can find something in the $600 to %800 range that will be as good as what I suggested and you can resell without much pain if they just don’t work out.



jim

Tsunami 135
is another great choice for smaller-framed paddlers and in the 12-14’ range. if you shop around you can definitely find leftover '08 Tsunamis for under $1000

Great!
That sounds like a beautiful place to paddle. If the lake is that large, then I would assume the sea kayak to be the ultimate craft, regardless of the material you select.



Not to mention that having the sea kayak at your disposal will allow for answering the call of the sea, which is inevitable.



James

AOW

Totally new
Cool, that does look nice. Price looks like top of my range but they look nice. At 6’2 and 220+ I’m a big dude. I think I just need to start jumping in these things and checking them out. I’ve got a good idea for brand and features to look for now.



GREAT! wow… now it’s just convincing the wife to give up her counter tops for KAyaks! :slight_smile:



Brian

I’m the 16 year old kid he was talking
about. Teenagers get stereotyped as impulsive and stupid alot of times. I thought my advise was helpful.



I wanted to inform you about deformation of kayak hulls now so you dont have to find out later in a more unfortunate way. On a hot 95 degree day last year in fort collins, I saw a perception swifty straped onto a car rack and left on the rack. The kayaks hull had significantly dented due to him not loosening the straps that were applying pressure to the plastic. This is a problem that happens but its both preventable and reparible. When polyethylene first came out in kayaks, it was not near as strong or stiff as it is today. Many kayak designers said they just didnt meet the standards of composites. The first poly sea kayaks needed additional support to stay rigid. 30 years later, today, polyethylene has advanced to become the most impact-resistant material and much stiffer, which means even if deformed after a long period, it is reversable. And if its sevre to the point where the direct head of sun isnt doing it, the plastic can be more motivated to pop to original form if soft, hot wet towels are applied.



Heres how to prevent it in the first place.



-look at the center area of the hull of your new kayak when you buy it. Some kayaks have a flat hull, some are round, and some are pointed in a V-shape. Next, back up quite a bit with the kayak RIGHT SIDE UP, and look at your kayak from the side view. Look at the front tip and back tips of the kayak. See if it has rocker, which means the hull of the kayak lifts of the ground a few inches or more at the tips of the hull.



-If your kayak has either V-shaped hull, and/or a bit of rocker, storing it might take alittle thinking. However, if your kayak’s hull is flat around the mid section, with very little or no rocker, simply setting it down right side up laying on its hull will do. Lay it on a nice, even surface.



-For a v-hulled kayak or a rockered kayak, buy yourself some foam transporting blocks. These are used to transport the kayak on top of a car if there is not a roof rack. Put these under the kayak directly under the bulkheads. If the kayak has no bulkheads, its the section between the hatches and cockpit coaming. And, you can use them for transporting as well.





I am not trying to scare you off of poly kayaks. Its not near as big of a deal as it sounds. This advice is just a do it once when you get it thing, then you can figure out once and for all how to store the kayak permanantly, and NEVER worry about it again. And, if deformation ever occurs, you can fix it.



Plastic has advanced to the point where this is not a big deal that much.