Tyvek Canoe cover

Has anyone used this? (http://www.boundarywaterscatalog.com/browse.cfm/4,91.htm). I assume the fact that it’s Tyvek is what allows you to wrap it directly around the hull (as opposed to a tarp, which you’re not supposed to drape in direct contact w/the canoe). I don’t have a garage or that much time for a more creative “construction project.” I figure this and a pair of sawhorses would take care of storage… Any thoughts?

Don’t know
It must be Tyvek plus another material because Tyvek by itself will deteriorate in direct sunlight. In its normal usage it is covered by siding. I had a piece that I used to cover some lumber last summer and it only survived about 60 days,between sunlight and wind before it was shot.

It is a good idea because its breathable so you would not be trapping moisture under it.

Yes, I have had two
and have had mixed results,but only with the durability of the cover.

Had one for two seasons and it worked great covering a boat outside that was hanging on the side of my garage. The next season it had tears and holes in it that I suspect were made by squirrels. Replaced it with a new one and it had holes after two months.

However, if you can keep the holes and tears out, the cover works great at protecting the boat from the elements.

Thanks for your responses
I just spoke to the Piragis guy who was really honest and told me there have been complaints re. the durability of these (specifically at the seams). Interestingly, he also suggested that a Royalex canoe (w/vinyl trim) doesn’t particularly need a cover and can simply be stored upside down someplace where it won’t get excessive direct sunlight or be subject to impact during really cold weather. So I’m trying to figure out: do I need a cover or not?

Royalex outside
I’ve had my OT Penobscot 17 hanging on the north side of my garage under wide, overhanging eaves for fifteen years. It doesn’t stay completely dry and it does get some filtered rays at sunset. My 303 applications have been sporadic, at best. Aside from a little mildew on the inside, which I used to scrub off every spring with a Dobie pad and mild bleach solution, but now power wash (much quicker and better), the only degradation I’ve noticed is slight chalking of the vinyl skin. The boat is now approaching the twenty year mark and is still a confident family cruiser. It may not be as bomb-proof as a Grumman, but it’s been close enough for me.

Definitely would not invest in the cover
if it is a Royalex boat w/ vinyl gunwales. Keeping a little 303 protectorant on it will likely add to the logevity. Wood and composite material (which my boats are) definitely take a beating unprotected from the elements.

I hadn’t heard that a tarp shouldn’t come in direct contact with a canoe hull. Is this true? I had someone in a paddling shop recommend recently that I get a tarp to wrap our rx canoe in, I was planning on buying one in the next couple of days.

I can’t get a straight answer…
…about it. Believe me, the idea of housing my canoe under a $15 tarp is way more appealing than rigging up a “greenhouse” out of PVC pipe or an A-frame wood structure or any of the other suggestions - helpful tho’ they are - that I’ve received. I have no garage and live in NJ where yeah, there’s sun, rain, snow, and air pollution, but I could care less what the canoe looks like cosmetically; I just don’t want it to deteriorate physically!

is what new houses are wrapped with before the windows and exterior material is installed. I’d go to a construction site, such as a new subdivision and find the scraps. There’s probably some big enough to wrap a canoe or kyack.


Your hull can splotch and discolor if wrapped tightly in a non porous wrap. Allow ventilation if it is a waterproof tarp.

This advice is from someone I know who makes canoe covers.

There is someting coming out called Weather Max, waterproof yet permeable to vapor. It will be pricey though, a couple of hundred.

sounds like a fancy name
for a tubular nylon jersey…buy the fabric and knot the ends…much cheaper.

Tyvek is rated by Dupont for 3 months
UV exposure. After that, it starts to break down and weaken. Enough so that the water barrier properties are lessened, and the strength is weakened, thus wind damage will occur. Typar is stronger because of the landscape fabric weave backing, but even worse on UV, and a thinner water barrier. It also doesn’t allow moisture to permeate out. All housewraps are designed to be covered by siding, so they don’t really work well for this purpose.

If one really wants to use Tyvek, go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a 100’ roll for around $125. Cut off a piece, wrap your vessel and in a few months, replace it. A fraction of the price overall compared to $85 for one application.