Just got a Nordkapp RM added to the fleet and it needs some work to make it “my own”. Here is a quick video of how to reposition the backband and do some other minor tweaks.
http://youtu.be/RsShUSN7rxM
Hope to have some on the water info to share soon (paddled it just 2x so far, both on mostly flat water). There is a lot of confusion online (including Valley’s own web site) about the size and behavior of this boat relative to the LV and other Nordkapps. To set the record straight, the RM is lower in the fore deck than the LV (despite Valley’s web site listing them the same). I also think it tracks stronger than the LV, and weathercocks just as much (needs a skeg to go straight in even the slightest breeze on flat water) - not necessarily bad, because with the skeg it can be balanced just as you want it (from weathercocking to lee cocking).
Lastly, some say it is unstable and to lower the seat by removing foam from under the seat. Has anyone actually done that on an RM? It does not look like the seat can go any lower - the side edges on the bottom of the seat pan already rest on the hull; the foam is only in the center to fill the gap of the V on the bottom. Plus, for me, adding 1/2" padding to the rear of the seat helped get a better ergonomic position (better fit in the cockpit as well as reach to the water) without making the boat unstable for me (it is considerably more stable even with the padding than my Epic V10 Sport, so that makes it stable enough for me - YMMV) 
cool…
i owned one of these some time, but sold it since i have pinny. I felt it as very reassuring with very good secondary stability, and im light. i guess this stuff about the nordkapps being nervous is very subjective i guess…
congrats with the boat.
I thought you might comment …
The Nordkapp RM is very different from my Delphin. That's why I got it, to change the feel so to speak. In the Delpjin,I just edge it and it turns. In the Nordkapp I have to balance it on edge and be careful not to fall over... So more work for the same result -;) Joke aside, the stability is very progressively building up as I edge it. The final stability is not huge and more importantly there is no "resting" point to keep it there as on a hard chine boat. So more attention is required.
The first time I test paddled a Nordkapp LV (a few years ago), I got in, paddled a bit and felt great. Then edged it and sploosh - went over without a warning. Rolling back up was almost as easy, though. The first time I tried the RM (earlier this week) it tried the same trick on me while edging it. But this time I was prepared and a quick brace was enough... though I did get some of my hair wet in the process -:)
Hopefully I will be able to take it out on the river this weekend to try it in more challenging conditions and see if it has any surprises for me...
Side pads
Umm… why did you mount the side pads upside down and switched sides?
Moving the backband center mounting slightly is something I should try on my LV with lowered seat.
Upside down?
You are right! I just checked - they do fit better if i swap them. what was i looking at yesterday, i have no idea... They seemed to fit better this way against the contour of the sides, but I was asking myself the same question - which way should they fit ... My pads came with 2 straps but only 1 buckle (the second one seems to have been cut off). So maybe that limited me into how to attach them so that they still stay put reasonably well. I might just put some mini cell instead of them as they do move a bit too much with only one strap holding them in place...
I'll try them on the water, as I like a bit of pad on the sides and top but not on the front ofthe supports, where I feel my legs need the extra room without the pads (I feel slight rubbing there with the pads on...
Quick followup
Had a chance to paddle the boat with the modified backrest for a couple of hours today. After fiddling on dry land with pads and options, I decided to paddle the bare seat - no pads of any sort. Seems to give me a very nice fit. I only added some foam where my knees are under the cockpit. I noticed that I don't make much contact with the thigh braces on the water - I seem to be using the cockpit itself, so I might remove the braces down the road if that indeed turns out to be the case when the conditions get more challenging.
Getting my bottom perhaps 1/2" lower today than it was on my first paddle (when I had the OEM pad, foam, and a gell pad stacked-up) increased stability considerably. This kayak is stable for me - no insecurity or wobbliness at all. I can rummage in the day hatch or take photos and look around with no concern for bracing. Catching boat wakes was uneventful and I could apply full power to the water (no wobbliness). But again, I can do that in my V10 Sport surfski too, almost as well, so folks used to more stable kayaks might still find the RM a bit "lively". At about 200lb with light winter gear and basic safety gear and a couple of quarts of water on board, I suppose I am loading it to a level that I feel is not far from its intended optimal load. I'm sure it can take more just fine, but the point is that it paddles unloaded for me perfectly.
With the seat back and without any padding, the layback is rather limited, unfortunately. But I have enough leg and foot room for barefoot paddling and to raise one knee in the center of the cockpit for a change of position.
Anyway, the boat paddled great on open water and small wind waves - just as I hoped it would. The boat indeed seems to gain stability as some waves develop,as others have mentioned. I suppose the rocketed hull with relatively slim ends results with the center being well submerged and utilizing almost the full 21" width near the cockpit. I felt the Nordkapp RM is fast for a poly boat with a 16' or so waterline: easy to maintain good speed in any direction, smooth cutting through the waves without much splashing, and has pretty high top speed too for catching boat wakes.
But those hatch covers - I don't like them... To properly seal them requires quite a bit of pushing so the lower outer rim gets snug down. Taking them off was a pain! Literally. I had to pry the rear hatch cover with a screwdriver - I could not separate it from the boat with my fingers (not due to vacuum, as I have pressure equalization vents) but due to the very snug fit of the rim's lip against the deck around the base of the hatch opening. On the plus side, there is absolutely no way these hatches would blow off as some have reported happening - my guess is that they were not closed well - the lip really needs to get pushed down inside its channel, so it is flush with the deck; or the seal will not be at max strength... It is possible to close the covers without the lower lip being seated as I describe - the upper rim makes contact with the cover, so you would think they are closed, but they are not secure. They are still watertight this way too - I had them closed like this the first day and I rolled several times and not a drop came in. However they did come off very easy - I was concerned and thought that they were way too loose. Today i indeed figured out they were! I would guess those who had hatches blow open on them on the water had them closed the wrong way. Wish they were easier to put on and off, kind of like KajakSport hatches, that are also 100% dry but easier to get on and off...
nice…
reading. its very much like what i experienced, exept im only about 70kgs
Valley mods
You really should try the Immersion Research lounge backband. It’s a cheap and easy modification that makes a huge huge difference. It did this on my Aquanaut and now on my Etain. Speaking od the Etain, you should try and see if you can get the seat aftermarket… big improvement in comfort.
Valley Mods
How exactly did you attach the IR Loungeband to the Valley seat? Where did you attach the chocks at the ends of the ratchet straps?
Same questions - any photos?
Adding an IR back and was my first thought, since I have one available. But I did not see a good way to do it. The cockpit rim is low and narrow for me and the only place I could reasonably put the ratchets was on top of thigh brace plastic, using one of the holes there. But then the straps would need to be routed through the cockpit rim somehow or they would cut into my sides as that back band is narrower than my back and would be way back from where the ratchets are mounted in the front.
I've seen them mounted with the ratchets on the back of the back band itself, but that looked ugly and somewhat defeats the ease of adjustment when they are on the front (my white water boats have them in the front as did my P&H Delphin and I liked that arrangement a lot).
With the lower part of the OEM back band moved to the rear, I actually thought it was very comfortable for me. Granted, not as functional as a floating back band that rotates a bit sideways and goes down and up as needed too, but actually fits me quite well once I'm in the cockpit...
IR backband installation
Very easy
Go to YouTube and type:
IR backband installation
There’s a 2 part video that will show you every step in detail.
I highly recommend installing the “pro straps”.
I chickened out doing this on my Aquanaut but did it on my new Etain RM… trust me you will not regret it.
Oops forgot you have the old style seat
I had to remove the seat and then drill a series of holes for the chock blocks on both sides. If I remember correctly, I had to put the straps with chock blocks in before putting the seat back on as there was not much room in that small circular side opening.
My IR backbandis different
The ratchets are supposed to be installed forward of the seat. I don’t see a good way to install such back band on the RM.
The IR models on YouTube have the ratchets on the back of the back band. The straps are just bolted to the side of the seat, which is easy and is similar to how the factory back band is installed.
I thought you had a model like mine, for which I don’t see a good way to install it. The other models are pretty much self-explanatory to install as they are a variation of the factory setup…