Valley Skeg slider problem

I was doing a little tweaking of the outfitting on my Anas Acuta today, and whie I was at it, I decided to adjust the slider on my skeg.

The skeg didn’t retract 100% of the way, and all I needed to do was loosen the set screw in the slider and adjust the wire. I’ve replaced numerous Valley skeg wires, so it was nothing I hadn’t done before.

But, my boat decided to not cooperate - the set screw was stuck. So, I sprayed some Boeshield in the hole and onto the wire sheath to cut the rust, and gave it 20 minutes or so before I tried again. This approach has worked in the past for me. I got out my allen key, and tried again – I felt the screw loosen, and the allen socket stripped out in the screw. Great.

So my question is: How do I extract the set screw now that the socket is stripped? I’m thinking maybe an Easy Out?

I’m going to wait until I can get another set screw, because the skeg works fine. I could probably get one from GRO (I only live an hour or so from there, and paddle in that area fairly often), but I really want one in stainless this time, so I don’t have a recurrence.

stainless steel set screw
SS set screws are available from most nuts&bolts shops.

However just because it’s SS it does not mean it won’t rust.

Most of the fittings on my sea kayaks that are SS still stain, especially when in a tight or enclosed area (like the set screw).

It’s just a matter of time before some fasteners get stuck.

Can’t offer you advice on how to remove the stuck one but be prepared to possibly replace the slider (I had to, once, for the same reason: stuck set screw).

Cutting the plastic slider in half might be the drastic solution if all else fails :frowning:

There may bprepare the industrial cutter


sorry. fat fingered it
hopefully the stock market is ok.

I have typed it on my cell phone and accidentally combined subject and message in the subject field.

Prepared for that
I may just have to order a new slider, and cut it and replace it when the time comes that I have to replace the wire. Might be the easiest solution.

what I wanted to say was:
There might be a smarter way to do this but I used a sheet metal cutter tool that I happened to have handy. I did start with Dremel but abandoned that idea soonafter.

First problem was cutting throught the plastic knob and melting the plastic around it. I know I could have reduced the revolutions but that wasn’t really getting me anywhere. So the melted plastic coated the Dremel tool and rendered the cutting wheel inefficient when it finally hit the metal square bit which housed the rusted screw.

I picked up the sheet metal cutter afterwards. It was a huge overkill but boy did it cut. The only worry was if I slip and accidentally create 2 kayaks. But all went well and I was able to cut the square metal bit apart without affecting the fiberglass.

After the whole replacement operation was done I now use bicycle grease to coat the hole where the screw it. This (I hope) prevents salt water penetration. Also periodically I remove the screw and check the condition of the rust penetration (none so far)

Some bad set screws
I had the same problem on two of my family’s boats, and contacted Rob Avery, the west coast Valley rep. He was aware of the problem, which affected quite a few boats and has been corrected with a replacement part, which he provided. Typical great Valley service.

It took awhile to do the replacement - I had to drill out and saw out virtually the entire piece of plastic - the set screw was virtually welded. The entire slider assembly had to be destroyed. I am sure there is a better tool or tools than what I used. But the replacement part uses a brass set screw that won’t corrode in place. It works great.

I’m sure GRO can give you a replacement part and instructions for removing the old assembly.

If I am reading it as a stripped out
allen head , Try tapping ( wedging ) a flat head screwdriver into it …

I would drill it out first and try an
easy out. If the easy out does not remove it, finish the drilling and remove the remnants with a tap. Easy outs work best in a drilled hole as they get more surface contact. When replacing, use an automotive anti sieze product used on cylinder head bolts on aluminum heads. The slider screw problem is caused by a galvanic reaction that occurs with dissimilar metals. Anti sieze should prevent this from happening again. Bill

Go with Valley
I really doubt that more torque on the part via a screw driver blade or Easy Out will work. I was able to get plenty of torque on the set screw with a high quality allen head bit - to the point where I felt either the tool or the entire part was about to fail. It wouldn’t budge.

Valley is well aware of this issue and have a good solution that works beautifully and is free of charge. They will also tell you how to remove the old part. The new part works great, and does not need anti-seize.

What model year Valley boats are we
talking here? Both mine are 2006.

Well I just checked both of my Valley

– Last Updated: May-10-10 4:03 PM EST –

kayaks. One is OK, but the skeg slider set screw on the other is apparently frozen.
I have not tried to really force it.

Who did you contact at Valley to get the free set screw kit?

Valley Rep
See my first post, above.

2010 skeg on AvocetLV
After only a bit of usage, the skeg on my 2010 AvocetLV went down and wouldn’t come back up.

The set-up on these are different than previous years (my husband has a 2007 Avocet) and I’d emailed Valley to see what the difference was as I hadn’t a clue as to what that black, screwed in plastic cover over the slider was for.

While waiting for Valley’s reply and not wanting to fool around with anything, I took the boat back to the dealer.

2 minutes later and a 2.5 metric hex wrench placed in side the knob to tighten the almost-invisible screw, the problem was solved.

I heard from Valley and the flat, black plastic piece with the four screws by the knob covers the slider and supposedly, upon removal, make repair easier.

Or something like that.

I’m printing out the email and saving it.

I have no idea as to who the
Northeastern Valley rep maybe, so I dropped an email to GRO, aka The Kayak Centre in Wickford, RI. They are the U.S. importer/distributor of Valley and they happen to be where I purchased my Valley kayaks. I am awaiting a response.


– Last Updated: May-11-10 9:15 AM EST –

good point.. most of the Euro screws are metrix.. and easy to strip with the regular US kind.. you still might get the grub screw out with the exact right metrix size..

I've had good luck emailing Valley directly in UK or US..

GRO just got back to me
Andy indicted that they are currently out of the replacement slider/set screw kit. They have more on order, and will ship me one as soon as they get them in.

I think you mean “metric”.

Same here
I called GRO and told them about my problem. They said they were aware of the issue, and that they’d send me a new slider and set screw free of charge. They recommended using a Dremel tool to cut the old slider off the wire and tube.

Must be quite an issue, because the guy said they were out of sliders at the moment, and were scheduled to get more in June.

I’m happy. Now, I just have to be real careful not to kink the wire between now and when I get the new slider.