VCP Relocate Foot Pegs??

I have a VCP skerray RMX and keep the foot pegs just past the last stop. The problem is that they do not lock there and they are easily moved up by your foot. I would like to move the entire track forward however the mounting holes are at the ends of the track and the hull would have to be redrilled and patched. Any suggestions for replacements or remounting the standard Yakima pegs?

No Fuss Option

– Last Updated: Jul-06-05 5:29 AM EST –

is to build up a foam foot rest/bulkhead. This provides a more secure and comfortable footing anyway. Leave the tracks in place and put way the footpegs for safe keeping. If you drill into the plastic, you are gonna affect the resale value never mind the thought of having extra holes. I actually don't mind extra holes as long as it's needed. But a foam bulkhead is just a more simple and elegant solution. Plus the foam takes up more displacement space in a capsize.

sing

There’s something I never thought of!
I’m on owner of a Skerray as well and have battled the problem of foot peg positioning. Depending on my foot wear, I have to extend the pegs beyond the holes in the rail. If a reader has developed such a thing, sure would appreciate a picture of how they developed the foam foot supports. My other challenge is the ability to work around my foot peg area due to my small ocean style cockpit. This has to be a consideration if I choose to mount something different.



PM

Almost Standard For WW/Surf Boats…

– Last Updated: Jul-06-05 7:47 AM EST –

most paddlers in these arenas will remove footpegs, if they come with the boat, and replace with built up minicell bulkhead/foot rests. The last thing you want is to have a foot slip off a foot peg on a "must make" move or roll.

The good thing about having long legs, is that you can put the pegs back in place anytime, so someone shorter can borrow you boat. I am short. Once I have my foam bulkhead in place, hardly anyone else is able to use my boat (not many folks are as short as I am). I don't really care since I want the boat to fit me exactly and that means I have foam hip pads and thigh/knee pads in place as well. I don't really want folks messing with these anyway.

A sea kayak does require the same snuggness of fit.

You can check out this site for outfitting ideas (though white water oriented, the ideas can carry over) as well as foam:

http://www.kayakoutfitting.com

sing

Ocean Cockpit & Foamed Bulkhead Footrest
Even with an ocean cockpit, foaming out the front bulkhead is not difficult, even for the hand-tool-impaired such as myself:



Determine approximately how deep you want the foam.



Then, on a piece of cardboard make a rough outline of the shape of the inside of your kayak’s hull at the point of the front bulkhead (err on the side of too big). Cut out the cardboard form, and try it for size. Keep shaving the cardboard form smaller until it just fits against the front bulkhead.



When you have a good, rough fit, use this form to trace out the shape of minicell foam in the deptth you need. (You can glue sheets of foam together ahead of time to achieve the depth you need.)



You can glue the foam against the bulkhead with contact cement, but I have not found this necessary. I just cut the foam very slightly larger than the form and then use hand pressure to wedge it in place. I’ve never had it come loose even during wet exits.


track mod
I too found the last notch was too close and beyond too loose and far on new H2O. I just removed the tracks and hand filed additional notch beyond factory last. There is about 1.5 inches from last groove to track end although I would leave enough metal forward of this new slot for the foot pressure.



VCP has told me they will stand behind their plastic bulkheads when I put a foot pump in my poly Avocet. So the foamed bulkhead should not be a worry. Sing is right about boring holes reducing re-sale. But I very quickly make boats my own with modifications.

VCP Foot Peg One Solution
Thanks everyone for the tips. I will end up foaming the bulk head but here is what I did in the interim.

The Yakima foot pegs would slde beyond the last stop till it hit the forward mounting screw in the end of the track. I removed the pegs and notched the front of the plastic slider to pass around the screw. The peg now locks in beyond the end of the track so it wont retract without releasing and the screw stops the peg from sliding off the track. The pegs can still be adjusted back or removed from the track by loosening the rear screw and sliding them out.



Where would be the best source for mini cell foam for the bulkhead?

Sources…
besides the one I posted previously, I have also ordered from



http://www.foambymail.com



Some folks don’t like foambymail because they they tie up big pieces into a roll and the foam can take that curly shape. Never really bothered me. I buy big batches at a time, usually in 1" and .25" thicknesses to have readily on hand for modifications to outfitting on the various boats I have. Building up footrests is usually what takes the most foam. 1" thickness is easier to work with and build up, opposed to 3" thickness to sand down. Just did one yesterday for a new (used) Booster 50.



sing

I made a cross bar in my RMX
It is mounted from the tracks so I didn’t have to bore any new holes. Basically I got Al bar stock that fit in the tracks, bent them into L brackets, screwed a peice of sealed wood onto the L brackets, and covered that piece of wood in neoprene for padding. It’s right at the spot where I needed the footpegs to be, a couple inches forward of where I could get the pegs. Plus I can stretch out my toes over or under the bar if I start to feel cramped. The setup is very solid and allows many foot positions that allow a good variety of comfort and tension. I’ll post some pics tonight.

Anyone reading this who has "Keepers’
footbraces might take a look to see if they can simply pull the tracks out and reverse them as the keepers have a bit of extra length on one side of the tracks and are not always installed with this max length in mind … conversely one can get a little shorter ‘reach’ if the pegs are already installed for longer legs… never mind that stopper tab.

I Gonna Say It…
Keepers are not “keepers” for anyone who does any serious playing or fast paddling… Any sudden, acute pressure on the foot pegs can pop them out. I am lightweight and have popped the suckers out at the worse times. Whenever a playboat comes with keepers, I either replace with Yakimas and/or build a foam bulkhead right up front.



sing

Keepers are junk…
…for exactly the reasons Sing states. I never keep them in any boat I own.

That being said…
and agreed with, Yakima’s problem is the stainless steel bolt and aluminum rail. Dissimilar metal corrosion is the result of that careless combo. Trying to remove a stuck bolt is extremely hard.



Rob

Pic of the crossbar in my RMX
There is a photo of the crossbar I made for my Skerray RMX here:



http://community.webshots.com/album/281419423yrCwrC


Okay… The Other Downside Is
that sand does get caught in Yakimas and can “freeze” up the slide action. Takes some serious banging sometimes to free the pedals. But I still find the rock solid feel preferable an easy slide as well as pop off.





sing

A little lubrication…
…solves both problems.

Token hose on Yakimas.
Smallest drop of something on the SS bolt…



Sorry for folks who find this out too late on the bolts.