vinyl tec 2000 application on composite

to get the best possible bond for use with thigh straps in a canoe, how should one apply the VT adhesive to the substrate and d ring? heavy or as thin as possible? i don’t know if this is a chemical or mechanical bond, etc. those in the know, please advise.


Don’t know the material, but after a boats laminate is cured the bond is mechanical only. Not chemical.

Bill H.

I haven’t used Vinyl Tec 2000 but
Have you read these instructions?

The application process sounds identical to what you do with Vynabond and it is an acetone/methyl ethyl ketone/toluene based adhesive so I assume it works in a similar mannner.

If you have difficulty finding MEK to clean the hull, acetone will work as well, and many people prefer it since it is a bit less noxious.

It is important to let adhesives like this “degas” because the organic solvents can damage your hull. With Vynabond I apply as thin a coat as possible while still being certain not to leave any uncoated spots. Coat both surfaces, obviously. I usually reactivate the adhesive with a heat gun, but applying a second thin coat as described in the instructions works also. If you don’t have a heat gun, a hair dryer will work. For some reason, 80 grit sandpaper is sometimes hard to find. 100 grit paper will do fine. I wouldn’t use coarser than 80 grit. When you apply your patches be careful with the alignment. Having some “indexing marks” that extend well past the perimeter marking of the patch helps. Try not to trap air under the patch when aligning. A small, inexpensive roller as sold for installing floor tile is very helpful. After installing the patch, it’s best not to invert your boat right away. That way if the adhesive hasn’t completely degased it is more likely to do so through the patch, not into the hull.

I’ve heard some people make a big deal about Vynabond making a “chemical bond” between the patch and the vinyl inner layer of Royalex boats. If so, it must be a pretty wimpy, one-molecule thick chemical bond. I have removed vinyl patches glued with Vynabond from the hulls of Royalex boats many times. If care is used, it can be done leaving a completely visibly intact inner vinyl layer behind.

Personally, I am using West G-flex
to connect d-rings to the inside of my composit boats. I do not believe that the vinyl adhesives have sufficient “grab” to hold onto composite. And pblanc, as you say, the “grab” onto the vinyl skin of Royalex can be disappointing.

I’d go same route as with contact cement

– Last Updated: May-27-09 1:02 PM EST –

*As said, clean...and I've roughed up areas slightly with med.-coarse sandpaper.
1. Apply thin coat to both
2. Allow to dry off completely(~15min +/-)
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2.
4. Heat both surfaces with heat gun..bringing surfaces back to tacky state...then join(eliminating any air bubbles between surfaces) while adding even pressure. *When joining..surfaces will grip quickly..once the surfaces there's not much time for fudging make your placement(s) good.

Must confess I haven't glued anything to kevlar, only to Royalex.

Yeah, Spence, I’d sooner use contact
cement than vinyl cement. I haven’t seen a good contact cement job fail.