Vyna Bond or Weldwood for Minicell

knee pads in a Royalex canoe? Opinions?

I thought Weldwood was the standard for this sort of thing, but on the can it says “the solvents in this product may damage vinyl…” Isn’t that what the outer surface is on Royalex? If it is the ticket, are there any tips so I don’t damage my new toy?

I have some of both, I just want to use the right stuff…

I have not had problems with Weldwood
on vinyl. I do not think that vynabond will be effective for gluing minicell, so your only other options would be urethanes (use one that sets flexible) or maybe West G-flex epoxy, which is overkill.

Go ahead and use the Weldwood. Apply two or more thin coats. That way the solvent evaporates quickly before it can have much effect on the vinyl, and before it can osmose through the vinyl to soften the ABS. Make sure the Weldwood is dry, only tacky to the touch, before applying the similarly treated minicell.

Incidentally, if you use Vynabond or acetone or other solventy stuff on your Royalex, be careful NOT to sop it wetly all over the vinyl. Be careful that Vynabond is dry before slapping things together. Vynabond solvent, and acetone, can go right through the vinyl and soften or even disintegrate the ABS.

Thanks for the tips!
I thought that was the case, I just didn’t want to make a serious noob mistake and melt a hole in my hull!

…As said!
It’s not what you use, it’s how you use it…the contact cement(Weldwood) HAS TO BE dried off…BOTH Surfaces!, then repeat with a 2nd thin coat…then line up and press…as you have to re-heat to stick anyways, nothing’s lost if you go 20min+…

I used Weldwood contact cement
to completely outfit our royalex Penobscot several years ago, and nothing has come loose with it being used in white water.

That was for two of the grey foam seats, kneepads, and some on the sides for bracing both in front and in the back.

I made sure everything fit the contours perfectly, and used weights on it overnight



Re-heating Weldwood?
…“as you have to re-heat to stick anyways”

I know you are supposed to heat Vyna Bond with a hairdryer/heat gun prior to assembly, but didn’t know that needed to be done with Weldwood. Is this a trick when using it with vinyl? I have glued ethafoam to aluminum (dryboxes) without heating, and have had no problems.

You don’t have to
but it is convenient to do so. You need to let the solvent in the contact cement or Vynabond “degas” before approximating the parts. With Weldwood contact cement, if you wait until the last coat has dried to tackiness, you don’t have to heat it. If it has become dried to the point where it is no longer tacky, you can “reactivate” the adhesive by warming it. So if you use a hair drier or heat gun, your timing doesn’t need to be exact.

Similarly with Vynabond, rather than warming with a heat gun, some people apply a final light coat to one of the surfaces and watch it visibly degas before approximating the parts. I’ve tried both ways and they both work. Using a heat source is more convenient.

No, it doesn’t need to be done to
Weldwood contact cement.

I have never heard of that, and I have been using weldwood contact cement on counter tops before many here were born.

If you are not satisfied with the cement before you join the two pieces together, you just add a fresh coat over the one already applied, and that reactivates it.

A pourous surface might need several coats while a hard non pourous one only needs one.



Thanks for the info/advice!
Now I just have to do it! Can’t wait to get this boat back in the water…


I’ve used both and…
neither come close to Barge Marine Cement. It’s easy to use and holds better. Here’s one link:


Remember, keep the open side up!