Zippy, fast 4’ waves in the 12-13 seconds range, with a 10 knot plus offshore wind. Pretty fun but also a couple of puckered up moments facing curly cresting wave breaks.
Mahalo and aloha to the native Hawaiians on Indigenous People’s Day. May your recovery of Maui proceed quickly!
An ode to Philippe:
An interesting quote from the article:
“You know, people see all the videos and photos from these sessions, and they don’t realize that four hours of pain and heartbreak went into getting that one clip or couple shots,” Barley continues. “It’s never a given around here. And no matter how much knowledge you have of a swell or experience you have with a sandbar, it all comes down to rhythm, time spent in the lineup, and everything coming together at that particular moment.”
Elsewhere in the Atlantic, TS Sean is barely hanging on as fish storm. Invest 94L is on Sean’s heel in the eastern Atlantic.