Took the old and multi-patched Island longboard waveski for a paddle this morning. Clearly a morning for a “beginner’s mind” rather and than an “adrenaline junky” fix, as the NOAA buoy was only registering 1’ swells in the 10-11 second range.
Before the 90 plus temp return later today, I figured I get in a paddle down the 3 mile length of beach, along the “break zone” for these 1 foot swells, to help challenge and keep the hips loose, force some reflexive bracing, and then some roll practice. The Island waveski is a bit tippier than my current Infinity waveski as it was custom made when I was 10-15 lbs lighter. So, because of the tippiness and with the addition of a water bottle cage, Island waveski was perfect for my paddle practice on a hot and humid day.
A mile or so down the beach, saw a spot where the swells stacked up and broke farther out on a sand bar to give a shot at a ride. Paddled to the sand bar and was in fact able to catch a ride. As I surfed closer towards the beach, I saw that the guy I had noticed earlier was actually holding a surf rod. He was there for the same sand bar which while stacking up the swells was probably a fish holding structure. I didn’t see his surf rod earlier because I wasn’t wearing my glasses. Anyway, as I surfed towards him, I shouted, “Hey, SORRY!!! I’ll get out you way!” In turned, he waved and shouted, “No worry!” He must have thought I was a jerk to choose surf the one spot he was fishing when the rest of the beach was wide open. But, an apology and courtesy can go a long way to diffuse hard feelings and conflict.
Yesterday’s cool front brought some heavy thunderstorms and wind. This morning, the local waters are pretty churned up with 4.5’ NE wind waves in the 5-6 second range. Sloppy stuff but better than flat!
What a change in 24 hours. Yesterday was clean, glassy small swells with no wind. This morning was quite the opposite. We were getting 4’ plus wind swells with 6 second intervals. These were further made more disorganized by a 11-15 knot diagonal north wind.
Glad I donned a full wetsuit and helmet and went with the Cobra ReVision rather than the Infinity waveski. Took almost a 3 minute sprint to get to the backside of the break zone. Even out there, the wind swells stacked and faded every which way. Clearly not great surfing conditions. Instead, I took it as an opportunity for a rough water practice paddle session. I paddled three miles up the beach where a point stuck out to block the north wind. As hoped, this helped clean up the waves. Although short period, the waves very much rideable in a left peeling break.
Didn’t see any surfers along the whole beach until I got to the point. Four boardies were riding the peeling waves right along side the rocky point (huge boulders and cobblestones make the bottom along the point). I sat and watched for awhile, not wanting to jump into the small line up. Tried for a couple of stacking waves on the outside with little success. Just were not breaking like the waves right along the point. Finally, heard one of the surfers (feeling bad for me) called out while pointing to the distance, “Take that one!” I jumped on the wave and the surf session was on! I continued to stay on outside of the boardies to respect their lineup, but was close enough to the point that I got the occaisonal breaking wave to work with. It’s all good!
Back to “Pond Atlantic” conditions… Hopefully, the beach goers and swimmers enjoy a respite from dangerous conditions. Saw on the news there have been a number of drowings in rip currents over the past week…
Wonder how cold the water is down there. With the wind waves the other day, I went out with full 2 mm wetsuit just in case I would end up swimming. I felt more confident (if not actually safer) with that on and my helmet. Never know when can happen when the waters are churned up.
