Swells were coming in a bit over 3’ @ 11/12 seconds. Too bad it was a slight onshore breeze rather than a clean up off shore wind. This was my first time back on any decent waves with zip since my heart valve surgery back in February. Felt tentative overall, with timing off and rusty rolling skills. Glad to get this comeback session over with. Should feel and surf better with the next session!
Mahalo!
-sing
You’re still a beast!
Thanks. I did feel/act like the proverbial “deer in the headlight” several times. Faced with an oncoming curl, couldn’t make up my mind to paddle faster or hang back. So, I got squished for my hesitancy!
sing
From hardship comes progress. Like riding a bike.
Lucky to still be able to get thrashed., good to see you on some fun waves. Well I’m not to sure about just like riding a bike., my roll is pretty rusty.
Not for sing - it’s like riding a bike. Read his posts.
Way to get after it!
Glad I got the session in. We are back to Pond Atlantic conditions. Nothing on the tropical horizon. Probably won’t see any swells until September.
September would be fine. With summer season over, I can surf the longboat again on that beach break.
-sing
Nice job and congrats on getting back to it after heart surgery! I have never seen anything like what you are paddling. What the heck is it?
Thanks. I am on a Infiniti (CA surf board maker) waveski. It’s basically a sit-on-top surfboard that one rides with rough water kayaking skills.
This guys has been putting out real good primer videos on waveski and surf kayaks, if you are interested:
-sing
That’s pretty cool! Thanks for the info, but at my age I’ll probably stick to my kayak. Although I could change my mind after watching this video!
Didn’t realize there was an “annual” surfing event for “Ole Timers” (and younger folks) down at Cape Cod (30 mins from where my son lives). This year’s event coincided with Ernesto swells:
Would like to check out that venue and old surfing folks someday (If I can over my GWS paranoia…).
-sing