Wenonah Jensen ICF-C1

I recently acquired this canoe as a solo workout boat. I loved the design and the super lightweight so I had to bring it home. During the maiden voyage, I found the seat height to be a little high as is currently at 8” off the deck. No one got wet but motorboat wakes and turning were a little too stressful. The seat will definitely have to change.

I couldn’t find much information on it during several internet searches so I decided to reach out to Wenonah and ask if they had a spec sheet for this model. Their reply was that their archive goes back to the Jensen 17’ for this ICF type boat. This is the 16’-6” model built in 1983. Subsequent searches were a bust

I thought there may be others interested in the specs for this boat so I did some quick measuring and below are those dimensions. The similar model ICW-C1 is listed in the “Retired” section of Wenonah’s website. I followed the same format for my list.

Length: 16’-6”
Bow Height: 15”
Center Height: 11-1/2”
Stern Height: 12”
Maximum Width: 29-3/4”
Max Hull Width @ 4” Waterline: 28-5/8”
Maximum Gunwale Hull Width: 20-3/8”
Width @ Front Thwart: 14-1/2”
Distance, Center Thwart to Front Thwart: 53”
Width @ Rear Thwart: 20-1/4” 20-1/4”
Distance, Center Thwart to Rear Thwart: 67-1/2”
Weight: 33 lbs

I contacted Wenonah about a seat and frame from an Advantage or other performance solo. Their reply was that with the current material and labor shortage, they would not be able to sell me any individual components. Looks like I will forge ahead on my own.

Is that the one from Oak Orchard in Lockport NY? I thought about getting it myself.

For seats and seat frames, Zaveral and Southern Tier Canoe may be able to help, or GRB.

or you could also just cut down the frame yourself, looks like aluminum stock.

Another option is to take out the frame and put a stiff foam block for you to sit on, you can add layers as you get more comfortable in it. Then reinstall the seat and frame.

– Andrew

I had the same problem with my Wenonah Voyager. A friend who builds fiberglass boats removed the seat and had another friend who does aluminum welding shorten the seat supports by a couple of inches. Made a real difference in stability.

Yes, it is the boat from Oak Orchard.

As for the seat, my first option will be cut 2” off the current frame. I have some aluminum angle ordered for that.

The older seat frames were wide so kneeling is not an option. If the seat frame comes out, I will epoxy a couple of aluminum angles to the floor so I can experiment with different seating and kneeling positions.

I paddled mostly white water for the last 30 years and was always kneeling on a saddle. I want to really try the seated position in this boat but a foam pedestal is still a great option.

The seat was meant to be a sliding seat, so you could trim the bow during races, though the old 16.5 boat won’t compete with the 18 footers.

It is not and never was an ICF boat. Those are high kneel boats. Of all the people I know who paddle, I know 2 that can keep an ICF canoe upright.

Having owned a number of solo race boats the first impression is the seat is to high. With me seat time made all the difference. If I remember right any seat I lowered I raised back up again

I had this boat as well, bit I think mine weighed under 30lb.

Fun boat. I ended up selling to to get a Crozier J200 bit had a fun summer with it. If you’re not racing it’s a better boat than the J boats, that is, more versatile and normal feeling.

I highly recommend lowering the seat as well. I dropped mine from ~7.5" to 5.5" off the floor and it made a big difference in stability.

I was able to lower the seat today. I took 2" off the uprights, cleaned up the angles, and epoxied it back together.

We have had some flooding recently in Middle TN so I will wait a few days before I try this out.

I was able to paddle today. Lowering the seat did the trick, very stable and fun to paddle.

In case anyone finds this post in the future, the seat frame height is 4-3/4” to the bottom of the round slider rods.