Wenonah Sandpiper seat location

I reciently took a sandpiper in trade intending to sell it because of it’s so so repretaion.After trying it out(I couldn’t just sell it without trying it)It’s handeling after I moved up to the middle kneeling on the floor really got me interested and after heeling it over some I fell in love! Why in the world do they put the seat so far back? it’s a better canoe in every way paddled from the center.I like paddeling it better than my Wildfire,its more responsive.I’m going to move the seat perminantly there angled for kneeling (and keep it of course).


I agree…
First thing I did when I first bought a Sandpiper was move the seat forward. Did the same thing with my present Vagabond, though it didn’t need to go as far forward. In fact, I did the same thing with the Old Town Pack I owned before the Sandpiper. I want the seat to be placed so that the front edge of it is just about in the exact center of the canoe. I don’t kneel.

I recently acquired a Sandpiper for
cheap (Royalex). Is there any difficulty moving the seat toward the center? Haven’t really looked at it, can I use the existing hangers, or do I need to buy new ones? I don’t care for the thwart behind the seat in stock position. Seems to be always poking me in the backside when fishing. Moving the seat forward would help. Also improve performance.

Not Sure About Your Premise

– Last Updated: Apr-09-07 7:41 AM EST –

I have paddled the Sandpiper for a few years. I paddle it kneeling with knee pads glued in. I have never questioned the seat position. Seems like if you are kneeling and put the front edge of the seat near the center, your body weight is going to be well in front of center. For maneuverability with this light boat, asymmetrical hull, and differential rocker I think the boat would handle better with the seat back and the bow lighter. By kneeling, my weight is probably positioned about right in this short boat with the seat in the stock position. Throw a dry bag in front and it is trimmed about right for me.

Seat plans
glad I’m not the only one!I E-Mailed Wenonnah and they said the designer no longer worked for them and they had no idea why it was so far back.Incidentally mine doesn’t have a rear thwart and I think I should add one for strength now that the seat won’t be back there.

I have gotten so fond of the sliding seat on my Osprey,that I’m going to try to make one for the sandpiper.Not the just to change the trim,but as I always kneel,I have found that it’s much easier to get in and out by sliding the seat way back and after getting in I reach back and slide it foreward over my feet.To get out I reverse the procedure.


Take a Close Look at This Hull
The Sandpiper really narrows up in the bow. If you take off the front one or one and a half feet(which is really not adding much) and look at the water line, the seat in the stock position is about right.

solo canoe seat location

– Last Updated: Apr-10-07 5:05 PM EST –

Here's how I've placed seats in solo boats. We're assuming a hull with paddler - one needs to learn to balance tripping gear.

Kneeling paddlers need the front seat edge 4.5in aft of center in symmetrical hulls, a couple inches aft in swede form assymetrical boats.

Paddlers sitting down like in Wenonah's, Sawyers,etc, need the seat front edge about .5 in aft of center, again, 1-2" aft in swede form hulls.

Things that can change these placements include special shaping on bucket seats and paddler size and shape. examples:

Our molded seat has a tapered pedestal and is longish in the thigh for support. It goes in with the front rim at center.

Big paddlers whether through genetics or culinary excess need the seat moved aft. Get someone to estimate where your CG is when kneeling and or sitting. You want that CG aft of center .5" in symmetrical hulls, further in swede form boats, and, of course forward in fish form hulls.

These figures provide a start point. Rig a clampo in adjustable seat and try the boat. better yuet - get someone else to try it and observe. Down enogh by the stern to track and certainly never down by the bow are cornerstones

seat placement…
Like I said before, I don’t kneel. The kind of rivers and the kind of paddling I do, I don’t need to kneel. Sitting, I want my weight just rear of center, which is why I placed my seat where the front edge is at center, give or take an inch or two. I don’t know whether this is technically right, but I really like the way the canoe handles with this placement, so it’s right for ME. As far as maneuverability goes, the Sandpiper is plenty maneuverable with the seat placed nearer the center. Maneuverability is not a problem with the Sandpiper, period. Tracking ability is more of a problem, and with the seat placed at the factory position, tracking ability is seriously compromised, or at least it was in my experience.

Not convinced
I don’t believe you can determine the “center” of this boat by measuring half way from the tip of the bow to the tip of the stern. The true center would best be found by measuring the areas of the boat that are actually touching the water. I think you would find that the true center of this asymmetrical hull is probably at least about a foot behind your measured center. Your method of measurement is giving too much weight in the calculation to the very narrow bow. Don’t know how else to present my argument so I’ll quit now.