I recently upgraded my six year old Werner Skagit kayak paddle to a new FG Camano for a recent trip to the Outer Banks. Unfortunately, on the second morning of a five day trip (virtually the second day of use), the locking button would not pop up to lock the two sections in place. I closely examined both halves of the ferrule for any dirt/salt/gunk that may be causing the problem and saw nothing. I used a long handle spoon (handle) to reach the offending button and some of my precious drinking water to rinse the button repeatedly while forcing it to pop up but it remained “sticky” and would not pop into position to lock the paddle halves. Fortunately, my trusty old Skagit with the old “3 hole” design was my backup, which has ALWAYS functioned properly and I was able to continue without resorting to duct tape or some other field repair. Werner has been quick to offer repair at no charge, but I’m seriously questioning the dependability of this “new and improved” joint. I’m further dismayed to see the old “three hole” SS button is no longer available on the new Skagit. Anyone else have similar problems and more importantly their solution? I’ve never liked other paddles I’ve tried as much as my Werner but don’t want to depend on something that may be undependable by design. Fortunately I have REI’s return policy as my fail safe if it should happen again. Thanks
Check the spring inside the shaft.
I had a similar button sticking problem with my Werner Cyprus. It started late last summer. Werner told me that when looking down the shaft, I should be able to press the button and see the spring move left and right as I pressed it.
Marshall of The River Connection helped me out by shooting a quick video of how the spring moves and when I saw that and compared it to mine, I confirmed I had an issue. My Cyprus spring didn’t budge.
Werner gave me a RA#, I sent them the paddle, and within two weeks had a new Cyprus. I don’t think you have to rely on REI’s return policy as Werner backs up their products.
Any chance that video could be posted?
Any chance that video could be posted? That would be interesting to see.
add 2-3 drops of
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube after blowing out with a stream of tap water then drying with hair dryer…a Yellow Bird.
If necessary dribble some down a broken bicycle spoke to the target.
also excellent for rudder cables.
Dry FL is outstanding for all low temperature low speed sliding mechanism. On bike cables, several drops at the ends of cable housings onto the cable there work in/out renews the entire cable lube efficiency.
If Werner objects please let us know…
Yes, Werner has been quick to provide an RMA# and the appropriate shipping documents for the repair. I hope that will be the ultimate solution and it never occurs again. My concern or question for those who have been using the new Werner ferule for years,is over the dependability in the field for this type of ferrule…or any of the “new fangled” ferrule’s by varied manufacturer’s. I’m asking myself if the advantages of angle adjustment “in 15 degree increments” outweigh the risk of failure in the field. A tighter, more solid feel to a two piece paddle is an advantage, but only if the paddle is usable days or weeks into a trip. I have never had issues in the past other than the joint ultimately becoming a little loose over time (years in my case) but always usable. The adjustable angle really has little benefit for me. I use the same offset regardless of the conditions because that’s what I’m used to and most comfortable with (muscle memory). Anyway…just thought I’d try to get some reassurance from those familiar with the ferule…it’s new to me and so far (failure first trip), I think I prefer the trusty 3 hole snap button. Hopefully, it’s just an odd coincidence. And no, I don’t use my paddle halves as implements around camp. At the end of the day, I take the paddle apart and put it in my cockpit with a heavy fitted cockpit cover to keep it and my cockpit clean and bug/vermin free for tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any input.
Mine are good
I had an old paddle from 2007 refurbished with a new style ferrule back in 2011. The ferrule held up well until I retired the paddle last year for other reasons. So four years of frequent saltwater paddling without any problems.
The new Werners I bought are doing fine also.
I always take apart and rinse the paddles with fresh water after each paddle. This might help because it gets rid of any grit.
Can’t locate it,
but if you look down the paddle shaft (wearing a headlamp) you’ll see the spring contract when the button is depressed, and relax when the button is released.
On my paddle it looked like the small rod went over the spring. No idea what caused that as it worked perfectly when I got it in April 2015 and the paddle was never dropped or bounced around.
I had heard of how great Werner’s customer assistance was and got to experience it.
From Werner’s FAQ:
"How do I care for my Adjustable Ferrule?
"You can keep your Adjustable Ferrule System working at peak performance by following three simple steps:
"Step 1. After every use take your paddle apart and rinse both sides inside and out with fresh water.
"Step 2. Store your paddle hanging apart with blades up.
“Step 3. NEVER use a lubricant on your ferrule! Our ferrules don’t like lubricants but they love lots of water!”
currently have 5 Werners
My girlfriend and I currently have 5 2-piece Werners between us (2 small shaft with new button, 2 regular shaft with new button, 1 regular shaft with old button). I have also had a few other Werners that I have since sold.
I have had to return one paddle when it snapped at the ferule (the thinner part on the male side) when I was doing a paddle float rescue demo for a class. Was warrantied, but did cost me shipping to Werner.
All of them have had sticky buttons (new and old) when grit gets in to them, but usually they go right back to normal when I rinse them out with a hose. Popping a button that is stuck in the in position is the most common use I have for the knife I carry on my PFD. Doesn’t help that I keep a paddle on my deck with exposed ends as my spare - I just ordered some North Water paddle holders which hopefully will provide some protection against dirt/grit getting in to the exposed ends.
This thread does interest me a lot as one paddle (Shuna, regular shaft, bought last July) has a button that is currently sticking and not freeing up with rinsing out. Looks like I will have to warranty it.
I’ve owned 8 two or three piece paddles, 4 of them Werners, and used to run into sticky button problems sometimes with them and even dificulty separating the sections. Have not had those issues since I started squirting a little Boeshield T-9 lubricant into the hole and onto the shaft connection surface. Since I’ve always had folding kayaks I keep T-9 around for lubricating the frame assemblies. You can get it at most big bicycle stores or marine supply places – I prefer the small drop bottle to the big spray cans because you can carry it with you.
Boeshield T-9 was developed by Boeing as a durable lubricant and moisture protectant that won’t degrade plastics or fiberglass (safe for aircraft wiring and pneumatic tubing). It doesn’t smell or get gummy or attract dirt. Very useful stuff. I’ve never had a corrosion problem with any of my folding kayak frames due to religiously applying it. Anybody who paddles in salt water should use it on metal parts of their paddling gear.
yes ferrule !
but the latch mechanism isnot the ferrule which was the question ....in that carefully dripping FL on the mechanism would of course moisten the latch/CF foundations.
Is the FL damaging the CF ? or does the lubricant attract n hold dirt in the shaft's mating space ?
Try that last on something not valuable.....
Boeshield is 3 thumbs down in bicycling dirt n water. Almost universally derided as worthless.
I’ve had my Camano for many years and hundreds of miles and can’t remember ever rinsing it. It has never failed me, but maybe I will give it a rinse for good luck.
Something I forgot to mention
was Werner’s additional suggestion to run warm soapy water in the shaft to help dislodge any debris that might be stuck, then rinse and let dry blade up.
with the new ferule. Been paddling them for years with no problem. I always follow Werner’s advice of rinsing & storing blades up. I’ve dealt with Werner for a couple of other things and found them very customer service oriented.
hey, do what you want, but I read this as the latching mechanism is part of the ferrule and they don’t want you to be putting oil on it anywhere.
Spray inside mechanism with a lot of water pressure and it should release after pressing the button a few times. It’s unfortunate it’s not as reliable as the old fashioned kind. While you’re likely to get less wear resulting in a floppy ferrule you need to blast it more often with water.
Who knows, maybe Werner will take the leap to adjustable length paddles, horrors!
To clean up sticky Werner ferrals, I’ve had good results by standing the paddle splits up in a tub of 50/50 solution of vinager and hot water. Let them soak for about a 1/2 hour and swish them around a bit.
Then rinse thoroughly with a blast from the hose.
The vinager may dissolve any salt deposits that gum up the delicate engineering in the feurrel.
Just a suggestion, but when on multi day trips (after having Werner ferrel issues) I don’t take the paddles apart until putting them in the car. And never ever put any kind of spray lube in there.
Good luck, be safe!
yeah, I don’t get it either
Why not an adjustable locking shaft like the Epic has?
just a drop or 2 …
no MSDS available during lunch
FL asks the inquire to email FL for an MSDS…
Hand delivered by an FL employee ?
The ferrule as understood in English is the shaft not the corrodible latch mechanism nor is FL an oil…or is FL an oil ?
Werner prob makes shafts impervious to anything commonly spilling on the paddle during transit or otherwise.
Like a B1
DO NOT SOAK IN AROMATIC HYDROCARBONS
its the effluent
from Vancouver. Bottle it. Get rich. Move to Mazatlán.