I’ve been paddling for 17 years now, Great Lakes, Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Now that I’m retired, the majority of my paddling is extended multi day tours, primarily solo, often in fairly remote locations. I have always used a Werner paddle (Skagit > Comano > Shuna). I have now had three paddles with the new ferrule over the last two years. EVERY trip I’ve been on with the new ferrule, I have encountered problems with the button sticking. (#1 returned to REI, #2 replaced by Werner, #3 my problem to live with…didn’t buy at REI…doh!) I simply can NOT depend on the paddle unless I keep it assembled for the trip. I have always (and prefer) to break down my paddle and put it inside my cockpit, under my cockpit cover for the night, so it doesn’t get stepped on, blown away, or used as a tarp prop etc. On most salt water trips, I can not spare the fresh water necessary to rinse and coddle the little “button”, on fresh water trips, I don’t like the fiddle factor, often taking a fair amount of time to resolve. I am religious about keeping the joint clean, and would expect a problem with salt build up, or sand, dirt etc., but I see/feel nothing causing the sticking problems, but know the curse of salt buildup whether visible or not. On a day trip, if I’m returning home or to a motel room and have the resources to perform the required fiddling/rinsing, not such an issue, but on a trip…a pain in the butt. Even had it come apart while paddling once because the button didn’t fully engage (that’ll mess with your day). Can’t imagine any kind of lubricant (even “dry”) will do anything but add to the problem. I know I’m not alone as I’ve read of several trippers who no longer use Werner paddles for the same reason. I sure wish Werner would offer the good old stainless snap button as an alternative (like Aqua Bound) Anyone have a simple fix? Not a theory, and not a procedure requiring extensive fresh water rinsing, warm soapy water, hanging the paddle ferrule down. etc. I can’t get to the hole to slightly enlarge, or button to lightly file down, which would just invite sand/grit anyway. Gunna miss my Shuna! R,I.P.
Small bottle of vinegar to clean and wipe. Tape it when in use to seal it.
Would leave my paddle assembled on long trips, stashed it under the bungee cords when in camp. If you insist on taking it apart, probably a quick rinse in the morning with salt water before you put it together, might be the best you can hope for.
Or buy a Lendal.
Don’t Lendal’s require an Allen wrench for their joint?
Werner and sticking ferules are common, but (at least at home) not really an issue. It is caused by grit/sand/dried salt/etc. getting into the mechanism.
After most trips (every if you can - I can’t, so only do every few trips and this prevents most sticking issues), spray water straight into the holes at each end. On the female end, press and release the button while doing this. This cleans grit out. Werner recommends hanging the paddles split and blade up, so water and grit can get out, but I don’t really have a way to do that.
On the inside of the ferule mechanism (in same part as the button), there is a tab built in. If your fingers are reasonably long, you might be able to reach in and touch it to get a feel for what I am talking about. When the button sticks, use a knife or flat head screw driver to reach in to that tab and pop the button back out. Sometimes just doing that frees the grit, but normally not. Spray with water while pushing button in and popping out with knife until the grit is clear and it is back to normal.
If you are on a trip and experience a sticky paddle, if you can find relatively grit-free water (so not a surf zone), you should be able to do this depressing button and pop back with knife while paddle shaft is submerged and that should clear it.
Do not keep spare Werner paddles with uncovered ends on open deck, as this is asking for grit to get in. Use something like the North Water Scabbards or Britches, or make something out of PVC tubes which are attached to the deck lines.
On trips, you can also keep paddle assembled (the safest route) and tuck under bungies in front of and behind cockpit. This way the paddle shaft goes over the cockpit, providing a little extra support to a skirt or cockpit cover, if you have them on there when you tuck your boat in for the night.
@cdesme said:
Don’t Lendal’s require an Allen wrench for their joint?
Yes. All Lendal paddles come with a little key/tool for locking the ferule into place, even has a lanyard, so you can tie it into your lifejacket pocket. You never get the wobble that some paddles get after a lot of use, and I find the Lendals more durable than the foam core Werners. I’ve been using an Xrange for a few years and really like it, but check out the Storm, supposed to be a great paddle.
Peter, yes, that is the “normal operating procedure” I’m whining about and find cumbersome. Having spent my work life in manufacturing, I’d hope a manufacturer anticipated the environment the product is being used in and design their product to function with minimal day to day upkeep. JohnnyS, I’m considering a Lendal but unlikely to pursue a paddle that requires an additional tool for assembly, at least for the type of touring I do most often. Yes my much older snap button paddles had experienced some wear at the joint, but never became unusable or even that objectionable during several years of use as primary or ultimately as backup. I’m curious if the new Aqua Bound ferrule has proven to be worry free by comparison. The (new, to this old timer) focus on infinite feather angle adjustment eludes me as it’s not something I change on a regular basis (now paddle unfeathered), although I’m sure some do in response to changing conditions. I assume most of us started out using a snap button paddle in either the set “norm” feather angle or no angle. Where the demand for “infinite adjustment” came from eludes me although I certainly appreciate the effort to reduce wear wobble to the joint, but not at the cost of dependability or ease of use. Anyway…no worries other than buyers remorse and giving up on the Werner as my touring paddle (unless they decide to offer a snap button in addition to the new ferrule, at least through the fiberglass blade product line). To my mind in this instance anyway, “less is more”. Peace!
I use a Camano and just got a Skagit as a loaner paddle that has that same ferrule. My Camano sticks a little when I take it apart. What I discovered was that I was pulling too hard to get it apart. The harder I pulled, the worse it got and the more frustrated I got. When I backed off a little bit on the tug, it popped apart easily. I have no idea why this works, but it has worked consistently over the past year. I often hear a little pop sound when it comes apart that seems kind of like a suction issue??? I’ll admit I’m not the best at cleaning my paddle and I should be better about that.
Thanks RG, but the problem I encounter is the locking button NOT popping UP to lock the paddle halves together. I can always get it down even if it means fiddling, rinsing, forcing. If it doesn’t pop up all the way, it has been known to come apart while paddling, if I don’t give it a firm enough test tug before heading out. My issue is strictly with the button not functioning properly. Anyone have problems with the Aqua Bound Posi-Lock ferrule? Considering Aqua Bound as my next paddle, although they do offer the snap button as well. My wife paddles an older carbon Sting Ray (snap button), but I’ve always preferred my Werner shaft comfort vs. the AB. Wondering if I should avoid the Posi Lock though, which is more common (availability) in retail. I’m reluctant to try another brand “super” ferrule after my experience with the Werner ferrules, expecting similar issues.
Got it. So far I haven’t had that problem. Mine if just hard to separate. Good luck with your decision. I do love my Werner and I can understand your sadness with making a change.
@cdesme said:
Peter, yes, that is the “normal operating procedure” I’m whining about and find cumbersome. Having spent my work life in manufacturing, I’d hope a manufacturer anticipated the environment the product is being used in and design their product to function with minimal day to day upkeep. JohnnyS, I’m considering a Lendal but unlikely to pursue a paddle that requires an additional tool for assembly, at least for the type of touring I do most often. Yes my much older snap button paddles had experienced some wear at the joint, but never became unusable or even that objectionable during several years of use as primary or ultimately as backup. I’m curious if the new Aqua Bound ferrule has proven to be worry free by comparison. The (new, to this old timer) focus on infinite feather angle adjustment eludes me as it’s not something I change on a regular basis (now paddle unfeathered), although I’m sure some do in response to changing conditions. I assume most of us started out using a snap button paddle in either the set “norm” feather angle or no angle. Where the demand for “infinite adjustment” came from eludes me although I certainly appreciate the effort to reduce wear wobble to the joint, but not at the cost of dependability or ease of use. Anyway…no worries other than buyers remorse and giving up on the Werner as my touring paddle (unless they decide to offer a snap button in addition to the new ferrule, at least through the fiberglass blade product line). To my mind in this instance anyway, “less is more”. Peace!
The Werner vs Lendal has been an ongoing series…Werner are very light…so among the things Lendal did was to minimize the making of their signature trademark that was one feature that set them apart from all other paddles {the 4 piece paddle with interchangeable parts} This helped to lose a few oz. Likewise Werner came up with the splined ferrule as an answer to Lendal paddles feeling like a one piece paddle with the keyed paddloc system {which can be used without locking if desired…you just get some play} So in order to “ONE UP” each other the public has to endure the loss of a 4 piece option and a sand sticking ferrule.
At least with the old snap button ferrule, I could firm it back up if it got too sloppy over time by the judicious application of a little super glue to the male end and light sanding with emery cloth and maybe a light swipe around the pin hole too, followed by a pass or two with some tightly rolled emery cloth if need be. Now…nada! I used to be able to work on my car engine too, now I open the hood and stare bewildered at what’s before me.
So, did I miss the part where you explained why you don’t just go with a snap-button design?
Sparky…without a longer explanation, the majority of paddles in a retail setting, <30 oz, carbon shaft, fiberglass blade,(my preference) come with some version of a new “improved” ferrule lock.
I haven’t seen a Werner paddle up close in years, but I’ve seen pop-up buttons of that kind on other paddles, and on other types of ferrule connections. How about modifying the button so that you can pull it up yourself? After all, it’s not like it’s severely jammed. It’s just a little bit too sticky for the tiny little spring to push it into its extended position.
I’d drill a tiny hole (1/16th inch or smaller) in the face of the button into which you can insert a skinny wire, scribe, sharpened finishing nail, etc., with which you can apply that little bit of extra lifting force that the spring can’t quite manage on its own. If the button is deeply recessed when jammed, put a slight bend at the tip of your pulling tool so it can better grip the edge of the hole without needing to turn the whole tool sharply to one side. Another tool with which to grip the hole in the button which would likely work pretty slick would be a sheet-metal screw, twisted just enough (finger power only - no screwdriver) to engage the threads, and then you’d pull on the head of that screw to lift the button into its extended position. One nice thing about using a sheet-metal screw is that by itself, it can’t get in the way or hurt anything while stashed in a PFD pocket, though it would be best to attach it to a short length of string so you can actually find it inside whatever pocket you keep it in (maybe attached to a small fishing float too so you don’t lose it overboard).
@cdesme said:
Sparky…without a longer explanation, the majority of paddles in a retail setting, <30 oz, carbon shaft, fiberglass blade,(my preference) come with some version of a new “improved” ferrule lock.
So don’t buy a mass produced retail compromise.
In May of last year, I purchased a new Nimbus paddle plus a replacement shaft for an older Nimbus paddle. The shaft I was replacing was already damaged when it came to me and I broke it being a little careless with a new reentry technique. It’s probably documented on this forum somewhere. 
I was getting my stuff ready for an afternoon river paddle today, and when you mentioned the weight I thought I’d stick mine on the scale and take a picture for you.
The following is an excerpt from an email from Dave, the owner. Prices are in Canadian Dollars, so definitely in your favour right now if from the US. I went with the basalt/carbon version and had it drilled with only one hole for the snap button because I’ve never like feathering my paddle. Shipping was very reasonable. I neither abuse nor baby my paddles, and thus have been happy with the performance and durability. I have yet to find a blade shape that I like better than the Kiska.
“Thank you for your order.
I think I have all the parts in stock right now, so I can glue everything together and have it out this week.
A full carbon paddle sells for $335 which weighs about 24 oz.
We also make a basalt/carbon that weighs the same as a full carbon.
The best part is the price is only $285.
It is slightly more abrasion resistant than carbon and paddles exactly the same as the others.
I think they look a lot better as no-one else is making them at this point.
I presume you want the new paddle drilled the same as the new shaft.”
Thanks for the Nimbus tip, definitely worth a closer look. Not a brand that shows up in US retail search.
I don’t think it makes any difference how a paddle is made, or what kind of mechanism is in the ferrule, if you don’t keep it clean, it’s going to be a problem. None of my Werner paddles have ever been a problem and I’ve never cleaned them, but I seldom paddle in salt water.
If you want to go with a simple button paddle that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg, try the Carlisle Expedition.
I don’t pamper my paddles, but I don’t abuse them either, and am careful to keep them out of sand, grit dirt etc. and expect to rinse/clean them off if they are inadvertently exposed to some form of grunge. I do paddle in salt a fair bit (post trip rinse) and have never experienced similar issues with a Werner or Aqua Bound snap button ferrule (in 17 yrs). I still have and occasionally still use all of my original Werner’s also without problems other than a bit of wear in the joint of my oldest Skagit. My only experience with the improved ferrule locking systems available have only been the Werner’s I purchased over the last two years. The 5 other paddles in our quiver are older snap button models. The issue is only with the button not popping back into position to lock the paddle halves. The clearance tolerance for the hole diameter and the button are very precise (in my opinion likely too precise) and ANY horizontal movement of the interior button assembly (a plastic part moving vertically in a track, pushed by a small coil spring) can offset it in the hole by a slight fraction (appears that is the issue in this case, and was by their admission previously).
Since the male and female ends are “splined” to provide a firm connection with no chance of rotational wobble, I hope they’d consider increasing the hole diameter by a slight fraction since any wobble integrity of the paddle joint is no longer dependent on the tight fit of the button in the hole…but that’s just my 37 years of manufacturing/plant management speaking, The paddler in me just says…$%^&#@!. I’m glad to say after repeated cleaning/rinsing with warm soapy water to no avail, I did my best to scrape the hole interior on the side that appeared to be in contact and forced the button up and down a hundred times or so, and it began to ease through wear. With luck, it’ll perform as expected and I’ll happily paddle with my Shuna for several more years…and hope I never end up on a multi day trip with a $275 paddle that won’t stay together again! Film at 11.
Keep your seat dry. Peace.