Wilderness Tempest - 2010 or 2011 model?

I have a lead on a 2010 Wilderness Tempest 170 RM. It is used but I haven’t had a chance to check it out yet. Barring any major problems, what differences are there between the 2010 & 2011 models? I’ve heard of skeg changes, but that was just a guess.

Sorry if this has already been covered - I ran the search results and didn’t find what I was looking for.



Ask Steve…
…on the Tempest Owners Yahoo Groups site.


skeg change
For sure. I think the 2010 version won some awards so I’m not sure you could go wrong if you like it. I was looking at them during the change over and I don’t remember there being changes, other than the skeg, on the ones coming in but I could be wrong.

Ryan L.

I was asking a similar question
last year when I was looking at the Zepyrs and if I recall, the answer was that the skegs are different and I don’t recall anything esle being different.

The hatches ont he 2010 should be the new kind (they don’t leak on my '10 plastic Zephyr even after a couple of hours in white water (being submerged in green water and with a couple of dozen rolls along the way). They do leak during rescue practice though if you sit on them. The foot pedals also get dislodged on mine during rolling (I do not care since I have them all the way down, but I recently lent it to someone shorter and they had that issue when upside down).

The new skeg may be worth a look though - I have not seen the new ones but the old ones are nothing special. Mine is curved as were some others I’ve personally looked at (as in defective in not being straight). They seem to work well nevertheless but do seem to create some drag when deployed. For my use I do not deploy the skeg much so it does not really matter much - I only use it downwind occasionally and there I get enough push from waves to not care about the added drag or it being slightly bent one way…

Similar Zephyr experience
I recently had mine replaced under warranty, so I have experience with both styles of skegs and hatch cover.

The old skeg had the slider on a rod, the new skeg has the slider on a cable. I grabbed the new one like I used to grab to old one and it moved out of the slot and kinked the first time I used it, in the driveway after I unwrapped it. That’s the bad.

The good is that if I use the last two fingers of the same hand to keep the cable in the slot, it moves fine no problems. But the really good is the new skeg is very effective, significantly larger. So a partial deployment is useful, and is mostly all that is needed unless in really severe conditions. The old skeg seemed to be ‘all or nothing’, it didn’t seem to have any useful partial deployment positions.

I can see where they changed the design to make it faster/cheaper to manufacture, and it also eliminated a potential water entry point into the cockpit in the process. Had I not been accustomed to the ease of the old skeg, I never would have had anything negative to say about the new one.

The new rear hatch hasn’t been an issue for me, and it is a lot easier to put into place. The other two hatches look the same to me, but I’m told they were redesigned, and I haven’t had any water in any of them yet.

I have taken to tie-wrapping the footpegs in the position I want them to stay in, because the little molded in plastic ‘spring’ that holds them in place weakens quickly and they will move position if you swim out of the boat. I hate having to fix a foot peg position after a capsize, failed roll, long cold swim in a tidal race, and a rescue. Although it did motivate me to buy a dry suit and do the tie wrap thing.

These work well on my WS boats for keeping the footpegs in place.


Neat Idea with the tether
I’d tried similar without the tether, and it was definitely temporary. I will steal your idea, as I discovered I use two different peg positions depending on my gear (drysuit getup requires more room than wetsuit getup).

Thanks for the photo link.

Thanks for the feedback. I’m waiting on moderator approval for the Yahoo site, and am going to check out the 2010 model tonight.

Any chance to provide a photo
of the new skeg and slider? I did not quite get what you did to the slider, but it sounds like it fell apart when you tried to use it…

I’ll try and describe
on the old style, there seemed to be a shiny metal rod that the slider was clamped to (brass screw) and that slider moved forward and aft withing the ‘control box’. The rod was longer than the opening the slider rode back and forth in, so it was always holding the slider within the rectangular ‘control box’. You never saw the skeg cable unless you looked inside the cockpit or the rear hatches.

Now imagine no shiny rod. You have the bare cable running through the ‘control box’ with the slider clamped to it. If you pull back on the slider, the cable isn’t guided into the aft hole of the control box, so if it has enough resistance, it will just bulge out into space as you move the slider to the rear. So as you grasp the slider with your thumb and first two fingers, your other two fingers touch the cable to keep it from bulging out into space. That’s what I’m talking about.

As far as the skeg, it just seems that the stern end covers more of the degrees of a circle than the old one did (a wider ‘fan’ so to speak) so there is more surface area of skeg to play with. I don’t have measurements to confirm that, it’s just my impression from looking at them fully deployed.

I saw the new skeg today

– Last Updated: Aug-07-11 3:11 PM EST –

Had a chance to look at the skeg on a brand new Tempest 165 today in the store and checked out the skeg. As desertdave says, the cable is visible in the skeg slider (where you push/pull with your hand to pull/deploy the skeg). The cable looks like braided wire (with thick brades).

I tried to deploy the skeg and I could not easily move the slider. So I went to check the back of the boat to see if there are any obstructions to the skeg (sometimes these boats come with tape keeping the skeg in). Nothing. Tried again, pulling harder - this time the slider moved and the cable kinked promptly out of the box with no effect on the skeg (the skeg did not drop). After trying that again while pushing the kink in cable to stay put with my second hand, the skeg deployed. After 3-4 tries the thing losened-up just a little so that now I could deploy the skeg without the cable kinking and with using one hand only.

Still, the slider was more difficult to move than my old style skeg and overall too difficult IMO. The slider knob looks the same as the old style - the only difference is the rod/cable.

The skeg shape is different. It is bigger and seems thinned at the rear edge. I expect it will have less drag than the old one and be more effective as reported. However it is not foil shaped - still a flat piece of plastic.

IMO the skeg is not worth it and the old one may actually work better, if the new skeg's cable is so hard to slide. I think this is a design flaw - why would one leave so much (3" or so) of skeg cable at the skeg slider without a tube or a rod to prevent kinking??? This is not a "rope" skeg - it still operates like a cable skeg, so I expect people may have problems with that system unless it is perfectly clean and smooth operating. Based on this one example, so if others work better I may be wrong...