takin a break.
I’m confused so am going to take another approach. gear and equipment list first. that should tell me the volume I really am going to need.
1-2-3
1. Do your gear list.
2. Pick the boat you want, based on paddling, venue, lust, etc.
3. Redo your gear list to fit!
One Ocean Cirrus
I might be heading southwards sometime this year and could throw my Cirrus on the truck if you are interested in paddling it for a bit.
I did mine from plans, so I haven’t a clue how good the kit is.
I haven’t changed my opinion of the boat much since I wrote my review. The only thing I would say differently is that the boat favors tracking over maneuverability, but I don’t find it difficlut to turn just by edging, and you know I’m primarily a canoedleist.
I don’t know if any of the photos in my webshots album would show you anything that would help you decide whether to keep it on you list of possibilities or not, but here it is:
http://sports.webshots.com/album/171970088LDcDUk
that woudl be great!
If you are heading anywhere near this way I would be happy to meet up.
paul
there was more words about the
ExplorerCS (cedar strip) from NDK/Seakayaking.uk
Sounds like Virginia Kayak Center (tom and ed) will be trying to get some…
drop them a line for more info…Ed paddled one for a bit over in Wales…
possibly Christmas/New Years
We’re tentatively planning to head to at least southern North Carolina between Christmas and New Year’s for some paddling and camping. If the trip looks like it will actually happen, I’ll let you know and we’ll set something up.
went paddling with someone
who had a straight tracking Pygmy Golden Eye (two panel deck pre-cursor to four panel deck OspreyStandard), he had a down wind rig that rocketed him along on some big swells downwind. Seems to me a four panel hull that will change direction according to a lean will complicate steerage/stability issues if you don’t have a rudder or significant skeg as movements to maintain stability will introduce turning effort. He had one of those v shaped sails. Have you corresponded with any of the folks at www.watertribe.com ? There’s a LOT of knowledge in that group.
there’s a funny story in there
The Chesapeakes have a one piece deck bent over the deck beam, that deck beam(if left in as designed) reduces shin clearance by about 3/4".
When the Cape Charles was replaced with the Chesapeake the tighter footroom of the Cape Charles was addressed by making a higher/tighter curve deck beam, higher side panels that had less flare. Which increased shin clearance getting in and footroom substantially. Unfortunately it increased the hull volume/windage substantially.
In kayaks with paneled decks the issue of paddler ergonomics is improved without affecting the hull shape. With the one piece deck the sheer can’t curve much without the deck folding ala Betsie Bay/QueenCharlotte/Arctic Hawk and a slew of earlier s&g designs. So instead of changing the deck or changing the construction technique(pre-glued sheerlamps limit possible sheer/hull shape)the deck a major characteristic, volume, was altered to meet footroom. The one exception to this is the original Caribou in plywood which must have used interior/exterior molds for the hull to develop as it did.
When the Chesapeakes came out local paddlers all commented on how huge it was for a “17’ sea kayak”. The obvious solution was whacking an 1" off the side panels,which gave a high volume/low freeboard kayak that ironically lost the huge footroom desired in the new model. Which would have been an ideal time to experiment with using the deck beam as a temporary mold…like in the Arctic Hawk kit. Doing that would give extra room for shin clearance.
A lot of the percieved restriction a paddler feels in a kayak is when you get in and move feet around that your toes hit the underside of the deck, with a paneled deck you can get more toe room straight above for moving feet around without affecting the shape of the hull. Likewise for deck whacking clearance you don’t have to reduce beam or deck height as the angled side panel reduces whacking.
thanks LeeG
will do
As usual Lee
Your advice is very sound and much appreciated. this explains a great deal about foot room. Should have been apparent with the skin on frames that I have built. Putting two deck stringers from the masik further down towards the bow increases footroom tremendously.
paul
WOW
What a sweet looking boat! probably 5 grand or up.
Paul
windpaddle
decided to go with the Pacific Action Sail instead of the windpaddle. Also decided on a rudder for the trip. Makes much more sense.
Paul
I’d build an NDK Explorer
Wooden Explorer: http://www.seakayakservices.com/explorer-cs.html
I’ve been working on a design that was made just for this reason. It’s on my website and you can see it here: http://www.nessmuking.com/siskiwitbayplans.htm There’s a newer version that I need to build and test.
Siskiwit Bay
– Last Updated: Nov-01-08 8:13 AM EST –
Another beautiful boat! Perhaps I will have the opportunity to paddle it one of these days. Any chance of a stitch and glue version?
The Explorer is nice looking too but 4500 pounds?????
4,500.00 GBP = 7,272.90 USD YIKES!
United Kingdom Pounds United States Dollars
1 GBP = 1.61620 USD 1 USD = 0.618735 GBP
Paul
No
– Last Updated: Nov-02-08 11:12 PM EST –
No stitch and glue version in the works. But the original plans started out as S&G. I have no idea how it would paddle.
more thoughts
I’d be tempted to have the kit shipped to where you are in the states. Carefully unpack and NEATLY pre-seal with epoxy both sides of the unassembled plywood sections then re-pack everything wrap it all with plastic wrap and double the foam and cardboard wrapping. CLC,Pygmy and Shearwater do an excellent wrapping job but if you can’t get to the package or it’s dropped hard on a corner and it’s exposed to water/rain this will ensure there will be no staining or mold develop if left in a warm damp place for weeks.