I have no experience with Subarus or with this device, but Yakima makes the “Showboat” kayak loader that has a roller that slides out over the back of the car. The photos in the attached link even show it on a Subaru. I personally would be hesitant to put the load directly on the rear spoiler, but like I said, I have no experience with Subarus.
Thanks for all of the suggestions, @Brodie! Despite growing up in Florida, I’ve never actually been to any of the springs… so that’s definitely on my list!
That honestly looks like the best solution yet! Thank you!!!
A petite paddling friend has a DIY rig made of PVC pipe (1" I think but might be 3/4") with wheels for loading onto an Impreza. Sits on the back glass (maybe with foam padding) with straps to the rear bar. The wheels are up for the kayak.
The Hullavator is the best, but more expensive method for solo loading. All of the strapping down and attachment of the bow and stern lines to the boat is done at a little above waist height. There are now similar load assist products from other manufacturers.
There are both extendable rear loading slide out bars to slide the boat up from the rear as well as a slide out bar that comes out from the side from inside the crossbar to help you load the boat…
The links are just examples. There are many variations from a number of manufacturers
I find saddles preferable to J-bars. It is very difficult to solo load a boat that has J-bars unless you are tall or have a car that is not very tall. A relatively light boat helps as well. In addition they are more susceptible to cross winds. However, they may be the only choice for carrying multiple boats on a narrow car. Be aware that there have been recent reports of J-bar failures in some lesser known brand manufacturers.
A trailer is very easy to load and may give you added storage space for hauling gear as well, but they have some disadvantages. They tend to be somewhat expensive. Everyday parking may be harder to find. You need experience hauling and backing a trailer. You need a tow package with electrical hookup. It must be licensed and insured. In some states there may be an annual property tax or inspection requirements. Increased tolls and parking fees. In some jurisdictions you may be required to have an annual ramp permit or pay a fee, whereas there may not be similar fees for car top boats. Maintenance and storage.
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I’ve used a Werner Step Platform with success. It’s 2 steps high and 3-1/2’ long. Set it parallel along side the vehicle, shoulder the boat, step up on it and you have a very stable platform to pop the boat into the saddles. Much better than a step stool or ladder. Legs fold flat, about $50. I’m sure you could try it and if not satisfied, return it. Or use it to paint a room.
I have a 2006 Highlander with similar style factory rack.
I use big size pool noodles with thick plastic tubing all the way through the holes and sticking out a few inches on either side. I strap these on as tightly as I can to the top of the crossbars with 2’ straps and mount my SOT top down (the flatter side).
I use a piece of 3’ wide indoor-outdoor carpet closed in the car doors on both sides, running over the fore and aft rails and between the side to side rails, and slide the kayak up on this, then grab the aft end that sticks out more than the fore end and swing the kayak around. To tie it down side to side I use straps looped under each side of the rack base and then over the top, so that you have two lengths of strap running across the upper side of the kayak rather than one to better distribute the pressure on the hull.
I use plastic tubes with strap loops held down by the hood on each side and tie down the front to the strap loops. I tie down the back to the trailer hitch.
This system has been working well, but I will be experimenting with passing a strap or line through the cross tube to reinforce the tie down to the crossbar. If I am not careful loading the pool noodles can sometimes slide for or aft of the crossbar with the present system.
I would hate to spend as much on a rack as I do on a kayak, and try to follow Jim Land’s Law in all things - Don’t buy what you can make, and don’t make what you can find.
Along the lines of saleroso’s “Don’t buy what you can make, and don’t make what you can find”, here’s another loading method. I have bars made of PVC plastic pipe that connect the ends of the Thule bars on my rack. I rest the kayak on the PVC bar, slide it up across the car and then pivot the kayak so it faces front to back like it should. I insert a taller vertical post into the little PVC stub to help guide the kayak while loading. The pivot method won’t work with tall cradles like stackers or J cradles.
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Just for fun I thought I would throw in this photo of my Outback towing a trailer for an event.
The red canoe on the car which is mine, is just strapped to the rack and tied down front and back.
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That’s nice! You still can’t beat wood for workability, strength and cost. I have a “next gen” of my PVC mod for a new car, and it’s now made of wood.
I live in Fort Myers and kayak from Bonita Springs to Punta Gorda. Check out www.calusablueway.com. It covers all the waterways along the west coast and around Pine Island. You can download or order maps that give you launch sites and different locations to paddle. Also “Paddles in Paradise” by Ed Higgins, is a paperback book on where to paddle around Punta Gorda. I met Ed and his wife paddling in Estero, great guy, good book and he belongs to a kayak club in Punta Gorda, which you should look into. Book is on Amazon or order on www.paddlesinparadise.com.
Rick
I’m insanely impressed - that looks awesome!
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Thanks for the recommendations… I’m ordering both books right now!!
Great…
As for a kayak, I use a Wilderness Pungo 120 in CT only 49lbs, you might be able to get away with a 10ft version, in FL I just got a used Wilderness Pungo Ultra-lite (12ft) 2015 at only 39lbs! There are likely shops in Punta Gorda, got mine from Estero Outfitters, great guys run it Jeff and Josh, owners, have both new and used. I am 6’2" 195lbs so really need the 12ft versions, but again at 5’2" 10ft may work and that would reduce the weight of the kayak likely by 6 to 8 lbs. Can’t say enough about Wilderness Systems kayaks, but they are more expensive, so something like Perception Kayaks might work and a bit cheaper. Depends on how much you want to kayak. Sun Dolphin and alike are cheaper, lighter and generally a basic kayak. Might want to rent some first before you buy.
Nice saddles, but I definitely do not recommend those rubber tiedowns. They have a nasty tendency to degrade with UV exposure and break, often with little outward sign of failure. I used to use these on my work truck and after having several break replaced them with nylon cam straps. Not only adjustable, but stronger and longer lasting. Nylon straps will show signs of wear long before they actually fail.
For extra security would also recommend wrapping the straps around the roof rails.
Long distance they get bow lined and an additional nylon strap around the rails. I don’t think that particular rubber has seen 24 hours of UV yet but I do check for cracks when I load up. Supposed to be sunny and 40 today…
Trailex makes a great lightweight trailer for kayaks and canoe’s. 125lb aluminum trailer pulls with ease no bouncing or wobble, even empty. Doubles as a dolly. Many configurations for however many you are hauling. Trailex.com. Check out Boat Owners World in Canada (Good people!) to order online and pick up at factory for discount and tax free.
It appears you already have a trailer hitch on your outback. Purchase a truck extender, 4-5 ’
on Amazon or a dealer for about $50.00. This will enable you to slide kayak straight into the outback, very little lifting required. Great for short hauls. You can position the hatchback on the kayak with bungee cord and a towel. Be sure to keep windows open while driving to eliminate carbon monoxide. This has worked very well for me for years.
Thanks for all the advice, everyone! I ended up ordering the Yakima Showdown that @rstevens15 mentioned above, with Rhino Rack saddles… all of which will work on my factory crossbars. I also found a good deal on a blemished Ocean Kayak Caper online (after watching FB Marketplace for a few weeks and not really seeing much that fit my needs/wishes) and ordered a new/better paddle, so now I’m eagerly awaiting the arrival of all my purchases so I can get out there and enjoy all of the great paddles I’m reading about in the book that @Rick recommended!!
You guys are awesome!
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