Looking for advice, this has happened the last two times I’ve used my paddle. This is a two piece Adventure Technology Adjustable Angle Paddle. While attending the Indiana Paddlers Rendezvous recently I got some creek sand and grit in the joint. The paddle was in one piece for three days. When I tried to get it back apart it was a bear. Took some very fine grit sandpaper to both male and female joints. Next time I used it to paddle and put it together I knew I was in trouble the next time I went to disassemble. I was. It’s now in two pieces again and now I’m looking for help. Are you more experienced paddlers using a lubricant before assembly like plumbers silicone or something. Please advise. Mike.
You used sandpapaper
and got an expected result… some of that fine grit stayed behind.
Rinse under drinking water well… very well and feel completely for some sand that might be inside the male and female end.
If it sticks again heat up the joint gently with hot water. The female end will expand perhaps allowing the male end to slide out.
heres some pros and cons and a discussion from P net in 2004
Rinse and 303
And don’t sandpaper it any more. You can use the 303 for other boat related purposes and it isn’t heavy and greasy like the plumber’s stuff. Some paddles just need it more often, but if you do it every time you paddle for a while it’ll get the surface to a more slippery point.
If you are finding grit in there after every paddle, either you aren’t rinsing it well or or the ferrule is letting stuff in. FWIW, whatever water I didn’t drink on a paddle goes used to rinse some part of my equipment before anything goes into the car.
Celia, could you be more specific on the exact name of the 303, I am not familiar with what this product is. And Thank You.
My paddle always locked up with sand,
Until I finally thought, how do I simply keep the sand out. I used a couple strips of painters tape on the joint, easy on, easy off. Problem solved. I have a pair of those neoprene paddle hand grips which I don’t use, think that will work also.
303 Aerospace Protectant
From the 303 corporation. Any store that carries paddle stuff should have it.
Wal-Mart also has it
as do many auto parts stores.
The 303 UV protectant is made by Scotch (the same people who make Scotch tape).
Personally, I prefer BoeShield T-9 lubricant which is a lube developed by Boeing for use for use in aeronautical and aerospace applications because it has nothing that will degrade plastics and it won’t gum up. You can get handy little squeeze bottles or spray cans of it in marine and bicycle shops. It’s just a lubricant and doesn’t have the UV protectant components of Scotch 303 but I think the BoeShield holds up better.
I always use T-9 for my paddle connections and the joint connections in the aluminium frame rods of my folding kayaks, which can actually weld together with corrosion if exposed to salt water without that lubricant in place. Never had a locked joint in a paddle or a frame joint when I’ve used BoeShield and the little 4 ounce plastic bottle of T-9 can easily fit in your paddling kit.
Take Apart And Rinse Right Away
After use. I usually coat both male and female parts with left-over $1.69 Bulb Grease (4g) size from O’Reilly Auto Parts.
Buy a Lendal paddle and be free of these inconveniences.
I don’t think it’s the paddle
I've had an AT paddle of the same mechanism since 2006 and it's not gotten stuck
I use it almost exclusively in salt water. You bet your bippy it gets rinsed after every outing and stored in two pieces
My ATs get stuck because I can’t get the
buttons pushed in far enough. Very annoying.
Fortunately, I have other paddles that I prefer and don’t have to deal with the difficult take apart.
I paddle only fresh water and my carbon paddle is always broken down when I’m at my car and placed in a padded bag for the trip home. Then the blades, shaft and ferrule are rinsed well and the paddle hung on the wall, blades up, to dry.
On the other hand, I love the ease of my Lumpy GP. No special attention needed; it just gets placed on the opposite wall in its curtain rod holders.
Paddling sure has changed the decor of my house.
place bearing in bottle as stirrer…shake.
Heat OD shaft with hair dryer
Dribble drops of FL down into joint.
Alawys pull straight out with a bit of rocker in the piece doesn’t budge.
Twisting jams debris together.
If the pice was twisted twist a but in the opposite direction while pulling out.
Lube the lock mechanism with CRC Electrical cleaner…shoot it…follow with FL. low out lock with an airgun at the garage…Wal has one or your auto dealer.
Bathroom is not complete without…
dry wear and a skirt hanging in the shower and neoprene booties at the bottom.
Oh yeah, you mean you mean you are supposed to be able to shower in it? That’s why you have two showers, one for you and one for cold weather when paddle stuff won’t dry outside.
I have a long screened back porch. Gas grill inside plus round table and four chairs. Was a nice place for outdoor bug-free dining.
Now the chairs are stacked in a corner because two kayaks are stored inside, chained to the glass table. Can’t leave them outdoors because we’ve had a major problem with honeydew from aphids on the maple trees this summer.
At least I can still get to the grill.
Not for Werner
There’s lots of advice here about lubing your paddle ferrule which might be something approved by some manufacturers, but not Werner. Werner says only rise with fresh water.
I try to be sure my paddles never touch the sand.
Paddle stuff does dry outside
and clothes do sub freezing too
Haven’t you ever had the joy of putting on wetsuit booties that have been outside on the snowbank for a week at zero?
The garage is for cars only seasonally.
Frozen - dry
I don’t usually think of frozen as being a dry state, just a solidified version of wet.
Having to deal with it is an excellent reason to remember to bring the neo boots inside in the winter.
frozen to dry
is called sublimation
One way snow melts with temperatures never going above freezing.