I want to do away with my foot rests and replace with a solid piece of foam from wall to wall and deck to hull with an angle cut into the foam that emulates foot rests so that what ever position i’m in while rolling my feet will be on something.
I’m sure many of you have already done this so any clues/ideas would be appreciated.
what angle for the final cut
what type of foam, i’ve got maybe 8-10inches to build up from the bulkhead (this will be in a QCC 700
how due you get a rough template to start with in carving the foam
any pics posted somewhere would be worth many words.
What I did in my 700 OK, can I assume you have the skeg?
what angle for the final cut.
15 degree forward tilt (suggested by BNystrom and has proven excellent).
what type of foam, I’ve got maybe 8-10inches to build up from the bulkhead (this will be in a QCC 700)
Minicel (gray fine celled stuff - unfortunately expensive). I used the 3" stuff to fill the gap - and a layer of 1/2" thick (2’ x 2’ exercise foam squares from Target - has a nice surface finish that holds up well - and easy to replace). You could also use cheaper ethafoam or something on back layers and minicel where it matters.
how due you get a rough template to start with in carving the foam.
I drew one based on a cross section image off QCC site. Best way is probably to take some wire and go in through the front hatch and bend it to shape - then transfer that to paper or right to the foam.
Some things to keep in mind:
A. Make the foam SLIGHTLY over sized (like 1/8") but not too big as it WILL DEFORM THE HULL.
B. Shape does not have to be perfect, as long as it contacts and several points.
C. Remember to make slots to clear the recessed deck fittings.
D. Add a small drain slot in the foam along the bottom (not shown in my pictures).
E. Put a strap or cord behind the last section to help get it out.
F. You can also make a cut at the top to fit the end of your bilge pump. Do it right and it will hold it all be itself. I keep my pump over my North Water under deck bag - but the foam is what holds it, and it stays put with or without the bag.
etc. any pics posted somewhere would be worth many words.
OK Here are some images. I added 15" of foam! Seems crazy, but all that foam weighs about the same as the pegs and rails I took out. Makes for a lot less water to pump out of the cockpit too. Later I moved my seat 3" forward - and removed one 3" layer.
greyak-major kudos and big thanks Beautiful boat–white over white would be my choice for any boat.
The first picture link didnt load but the second one did–a thousand thank yous for the description and pictures.
My challenge will be the knee tube glassed in place, so will have to create the giant foam plug in sections and then possible glue them together but not necessarily glue to hull…when I do this I’ll be adding the bilge pump foot switch at the same time…a good winter project.
My 700 is actually light grey over white (hence the "greyak" screen name. Semi-custom color that's half white and half "Storm Gray". Light enough to keep cool in S FL heat - but not so bright as to be blinding in noonday sun. Tends to pick up whatever colors are around - particularly from the sky. On a morning paddle someone thought it was a very light purple! In full sun - it looks white - the white hull being shaded below make both look the same.
None of my foam sections are glued together. Nothing is glued to the hull. Pressure fit is more than adequate (with cautions previously mentioned).
I can return the kayak to stock setup in minutes but yanking the foam out - cutting out the plugs/GOOP from the holes where the rails attach - and re-installing the rails and foot pegs. I also have some adjustability so others can use it - but to really set it up for that I'd need to replace one of the 3" layers with more thin layers.
All of this foam should be well past the knee tube - so slip them past flat and flip up into position.
BTW - What's "Winter"? *L*
PS - Don't be too surprised if you don't get a lot of QCC specific tips/replies. Most owners are rudder users that can't take advantage of this - or are willing to suffer with pegs (and don't know what they're missing).
PSS - If you have the skeg (sort of assume you do or you wouldn't be foaming back from the bulkhead) take a look at my skeg control modification. A bit odd - but works great.
greyak, more great stuff, and a vehement yes to the skeg…though i wonder about the drag when not deployed, but only wonder because for my paddling needs its almost always deployed even if just an ince or two…i do hit my knuckles on the cleat occasionally…mine is def. not capable of returning to stock with the emergency hatch now in front of the cockpit, and i’m thinking that is what the yellow round circle in the Kruger is on their website with the pic of the yak standing verticle. I’ll check out your pics soon.
Skeg control It’s not too difficult. I seem to have lost a bunch of emails to others who have asked about it (if any who read this still have my more detailed comments could you forward to Medicineman and copy me?).
It sits where the current cleat does and even shares one screw hole. The tube hole gets enlarged and one other small hole is drilled. On small left over screw hole must be covered (a tiny square of electrical tape has held for 2 years…)
Only tricky part is getting the cable lenght right (after 2 years I seem to have gotten a few mm of stretch and will eventually shorten it slightly).
Only unobvious part/tip/trick is enlarging one internal slot so you get closer to a full 180 degree movement on the lever.
You won’t have to even take the skeg out of the box. A good thing as I didn’t want to mess with the spring in there.
Yes - you can dial in any position. It really lets you fine tune the skeg. The other bonus is it eliminates a big potential leak source.
Thinking about Sweetwater - if the SOF is working by then - to do some of the Greenland stuff - but $$$.
Sealine Trim Tab Greyak and MedicineMan…I’ve been trying for a couple of months to find a Sealine Trim Tab to modify my skeg control like greyak did but can’t find one. Rutabaga is out of stock and paddling shops I visit don’t ever seem to carry it.
MedicineMan, if you find one somewhere, would you email me through the link here and let me know where you found it?
TrippS Honestly until you identified the part I didnt know what to look for…now I do…and start hunting, surely between the two of us we will prevail…Grayak, would you take $50.00 to install at the symposium??? of course that depends on finding the trim tab mentioned above first.
I have a rule against… … making holes in other’s boats.
If I make it to Sweetwater you could see mine (if I bring the 700 and not just the SOF) and that would make it all pretty obvious and straight forward. I should also be at the Bogey & Bacall in Feb - but again - not sure what boats I’ll take.
If you happen to be over on this side near Ft. Lauderdale anytime soon let me know and you can take a look.
Well, if I can… … remember what I did at this point. First thing I remember is getting the parts and staring at them a while, putting together, taking apart, then removing the old control, tubing and cable.
Taking out the old stuff is about half the job. Once you undo the control end the skeg can drop all the way and you will see how the cable attaches (and why you don’t have to take the skeg apart). You can reuse the little hangers holding the tube in there now - but do replace the tube with the new SealLine tube - one continuous piece. It is perfectly matched to their cable and is smooth running and keeps water out.
You will need one more thing - a copper stop sleeve. Available at local West Marine/BoatUS.
Its a tiny brass piece you’ll crimp on the end of the cable to replace what was there. Might need a hand crimping tool too. You want to make sure it stays put (you might also have to file it a little after crimping it on.
To figure the cable length you just need to get the control bow installed raise and lower the skeg a bunch of times and take apart and re assemble the control box a few times. Using a small twig to wedge the skeg up and hold it in the box at certain points comes in handy.
The job could be done in half and hour - but figure on 2-3 hours. You’ll also have enough cable left for a complete replacement if ever needed.
You also have options of where to place the control. You could put it centered up on deck, off to either side a bit, or on the shearline like I did.
I opted for that as it used existing holes, is nearly invisible (on black trim), and an nice straight short cable run.
To further confuse you you can also setup the control to work either way. Mine points forward when up and down and back to lower - with ti hidden on the seam when fully up or down. The leverage felt better this way to me. You can do the reverse of that, or or even have the lever park vertically. Once yo see the parts and the pulley wheel inside the housing that will make sense…