Well, if I can…
… remember what I did at this point. First thing I remember is getting the parts and staring at them a while, putting together, taking apart, then removing the old control, tubing and cable.
Taking out the old stuff is about half the job. Once you undo the control end the skeg can drop all the way and you will see how the cable attaches (and why you don’t have to take the skeg apart). You can reuse the little hangers holding the tube in there now - but do replace the tube with the new SealLine tube - one continuous piece. It is perfectly matched to their cable and is smooth running and keeps water out.
You will need one more thing - a copper stop sleeve. Available at local West Marine/BoatUS.
Its a tiny brass piece you’ll crimp on the end of the cable to replace what was there. Might need a hand crimping tool too. You want to make sure it stays put (you might also have to file it a little after crimping it on.
To figure the cable length you just need to get the control bow installed raise and lower the skeg a bunch of times and take apart and re assemble the control box a few times. Using a small twig to wedge the skeg up and hold it in the box at certain points comes in handy.
The job could be done in half and hour - but figure on 2-3 hours. You’ll also have enough cable left for a complete replacement if ever needed.
You also have options of where to place the control. You could put it centered up on deck, off to either side a bit, or on the shearline like I did.
I opted for that as it used existing holes, is nearly invisible (on black trim), and an nice straight short cable run.
To further confuse you you can also setup the control to work either way. Mine points forward when up and down and back to lower - with ti hidden on the seam when fully up or down. The leverage felt better this way to me. You can do the reverse of that, or or even have the lever park vertically. Once yo see the parts and the pulley wheel inside the housing that will make sense…