Best gear for going solo

2018 - the year I’ll finally buy that kayak I’ve always talked about. I think I’ve decided on the kayak itself so I started researching roof racks and some threads here came up so I figured why not sign up.

The two car options to carry the kayaks are a 2017 Subaru Forester XT Limited (I mention this because it has a hatch spoiler and raised side rails) or a 2018 WRX. I’m leaning towards the former but getting the kayak up onto the roof rack is the hangup and reason for my visit.

The first conclusion I came to is that the cross bars offered by Subaru are not the best. I looked at Yakima, Thule, and Malone and the price of the Malone square bars is the only option that made sense to me. Next is what type of “holder” do I want - a “J” cradle or hull cradle. I’m leaning towards the hull-type simply because Malone (and others) have a system for loading the kayak from the rear of the car that seem like the most easy and cost-effective way of getting the 60 lb kayak 6’ up onto the roof rack of the Forester.

Anyone here faced a similar dilemma or have any recommendations?

Much of this depends on your physical characteristics. I have a GMC canyon 4x4 (a fairly tall vehicle) with J cradles, and my boats average about 60 lbs. I can, with only slight difficulty, lift any of these boats into the J-cradles on my own. Consider though, that I’m about 6’2", and of muscular build. Even with above average size and strength, I still have to climb up the wheels, door jambs, and doors in order to finish strapping the boat down. If you aren’t able to do this with your vehicle, a system that accommodates the kayak sitting horizontal is a better way to go, as it’s easier to load one end first then slide the rest up. I figure I’ll have to change how I do things in time as my body starts to complain about my current procedure.

Of course, there are also the assisted loading devices like the Hullivator, which you may be interested in researching more thoroughly.

A trailer is an option, but having used one for at least a year or two is not on my personal short list. It’s great to load closer to the ground, for sure, but there are plenty of drawbacks:

  • Storage of the trailer
  • Boats are more susceptible to road grime
  • Maneuverability of tow vehicle and trailer is compromised
  • Parking requirements
  • Initial cost + ongoing registration fees, depending on your location

Here we go again. This seems to be a recurring question.

I use a Yakima j-hook on one side and foam blocks on the other. One boat at an angle and one flat. Our Outback is about 3 inches shorter than the Forester. Those switch back Subaru bars are sufficient for two boats. However you need to move the rear bar to the aft fixed position. I think that gives a 42 inch spread that is sufficient distance with the cradles to carry sea kayaks without bow and stern lines if you tie the kayaks to the horizontal bars not the j bar (not the manuf. instructions). Many will argue with that. But my boats do it every week…well each week they aren’t on the trailer. I’m starting to go out without Qruiser through the week so the trailer gets more use. (shorter and I don’t have any of those problems listed above )…a suction cup roller can work on the back window but I don’t recommend it.

I also have a set of aerobar cradles from Yakima, set of four about $79. They would work for the flat carry boat but they take longer to install.

I have loaded a boat in the j-hooks by cling and jerk method or the one end then the other. You have to put a towel across the roof between the doors. Not my favorite. If I needed this I’d get an extension bar, PVC pipe , or other bar across the rack parallel to the factory bar. I’d strap the opposite side and bunge the loading side. Then lift that end up rest on the bar. Then lift the other. Move the boat to the cradles. Then remove the temp extension bar. Personally I’d only need it at home since most of my paddle buddies help each other load after the paddle.

I have the Yakima extender that slides inside the rack bar. Very handy, alone or not.

If I was you I would not buy a roof rack system until I had the kayak in hand and experimented with handling it. When you initially buy it you can haul it home with a $40 foam block and strap kit or a couple of pool noodles (tied through the vehicle roof through the doors) and a hank of strong nylon rope or long straps, being sure to secure to the bumpers as well, fore and aft. Then practice lifting it on and off the roof so you can determine what components you may or may not need to load. Loading a single boat really doesn’t require j-racks since you have the full width of the bars.

I’m an average sized (5’ 5". 150 pound) 67 year old female who started using touring kayaks when I was 52. Since I have lived alone for most of that time, I have solo loaded boats more than half the time I have gone kayaking. Though my first kayak was light (a 35 pound folder) my second one weighed 62 pounds and I managed to load it and subsequent boats on standard Thule cross bars on a variety of vehicles with no assistive devices. I used to use j-racks but decided they were not worth the bother and my bars are wide enough for two touring kayaks carried hull up. In fact, before I got the Thule bars I used the cheap foam block and nylon strap rigs for two years. I even used to load an 84 pound plastic canoe (more than half my weight) on my own onto the Thule bars on a Subaru.

Maybe you will need loading assist devices, maybe you won’t. But try it without first before you drop a bunch of money on them.

Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone. I figured this is one of those questions that gets asked a lot and I did search before posting to get some initial ideas on what options are out there.

I’m 5’10" and @ 170lbs. I have no problem hoisting 60 lbs over my head, it’s reaching out at an angle at that height to get it onto the car without damaging the car that’s difficult.

@string I did stumble across that Yakima system for their round bars so that setup is in the running.

It sucks that these roof rack setups are so expensive for what is really a simple product.

“> It sucks that these roof rack setups are so expensive for what is really a simple product.”

What’s your kayak worth to you and the potential disaster of a mobile failure cost?

As with most gear, you get what you pay for.

See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-228-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection

This is slightly off topic …

  1. When you do get your kayak up on a rack, also use bow and stern ropes/straps to tie down the kayak. These aren’t to be too tight, just enough to keep the kayak from wandering around. If my kayak is very stable without these, I may forego the bow and stern tie downs if traveling at low speed across town. But I always use them at higher speeds. There are some who don’t use them, but it’s from that group that the Fickle God of Kayak Death chooses a kayak to fling away with a strong wind or unusual bump.

  2. A plastic kayak can deform if left on a rack in the hot sun.

I have my yakima stuff 9+ years with little care it’s like new. I did replace two felt stick on pads this year. I doubt some cheap just from China would last in the sun.

Also remember when you buy a ladder half the price goes to lawsuits.

So after a long life I learned you get what you pay for. Any business you think is minting money someone already though the same. So they open the same business and it drives cost down.

@Marshall said:

“> It sucks that these roof rack setups are so expensive for what is really a simple product.”

What’s your kayak worth to you and the potential disaster of a mobile failure cost?

As with most gear, you get what you pay for.

See you on the water,
Marshall
The Connection, Inc.
9 W. Market St.
Hyde Park, NY
845-228-0595 main
845-242-4731 mobile
Main: www.the-river-connection.com
Store: www.the-river-connection.us
Facebook: fb.me/theriverconnection

It sounds cool to say stuff like that, but roof racks and parts from the two best companies are tremendously overpriced, and there is just no escaping that fact. Very few people have ever done any fabricating of their own and they just have no clue about this. Now, it might be that the volume of sales of these companies is so incredibly low that such prices are justified, but I doubt it. I’ll buy the stuff if I have to, but I will never say “you get what you pay for” because that isn’t remotely close to being true. I say, grit your teeth and buy the quality level that you want or need, but don’t ever be fooled into thinking you should be grateful for what you get. Know that there’s really no sensible choice out there so this is how things are (go to a really good hardware store and see what a steel pipe costs that has the same diameter and wall thickness of a Yakima bar. Do you really think the black plastic coating onthe outside surface of the Yakima bar can account for the enormous price difference?)

@wgb113 said:
It sucks that these roof rack setups are so expensive for what is really a simple product.

After a while you see the engineering that went into the towers, clips, lock cylinders, plastics, bars, cradles and the simple product gets real complicated. Like any sport the support systems often cost a great deal the more you get into the activity.
When the roof blew off my pop up truck camper ( clamp operator failure) the Yakima roof rack and kayak went flying and crashing too. The racks and cradles then went onto truck bed towers. Three trucks later I finally replaced those racks. Pricey yes, but tough. The towers and cradles are waiting for the next project.

@Guideboatguy said:

. I’ll buy the stuff if I have to, but I will never say “you get what you pay for” because that isn’t remotely close to being true.

I have to disagree with you there. Quality and warranty counts. As an example, Thule and Kokatat are more expensive up front, but their products are high quality and they back them with their warranty.

@Guideboatguy
hardware store and see what a steel pipe costs that has the same diameter and wall thickness of a Yakima bar. Do you really think the black plastic coating onthe outside surface of the Yakima bar can account for the enormous price difference?)

Perhaps not, but the plastic coating keeps the cradles from rotating and spreading apart. It also rust inhibits. You can use multiple coats of spray tool grip coating, but it doesn’t coat or survive as long. It also works right now. How much is your time worth?

5’6" guy with a Sienna. In order to be able to transport my new-to-me Epic V7 I recently purchased Malone AutoLoader and Malone Telos loading guides. It is not a Hullavator, but it does solve the problem. It needs practice to get reasonably good with sinse you are raising sides of the boat separately and then transfer the boat to the J cradles. Probably closest to Hullavator while not being one. I timed one of my practice unloads and it came to 5 minutes without bow/stern tiedowns.
The factory crossbars didn’t do the job at all due to far in they pushed the cradles too fat in making it impossible to use the Telos. So I had to get 58 inch square Malone cross bars that solve that issue and are generally much more practical.
I still need a step stool to transfer the boat to the cradles and tie it down. With my height and the height of the van its more of a small ladder actually.
The added advantage of the system is that it leaves enough room on the rack for my cargo box. But its a couple more minutes of work to load/unload.

I have bought virtually ALL of my Thule components over the years used from Craigslist or Ebay. Lots of people take them off their older cars when they sell them and then find they don’t fit the new car.

When I bought my 2015 Mazda CX5 I sold the rack bars and brackets from my old Subaru Outback on Craigslist for $100 (caps were missing and it was pretty scuffed up but still functional). I looked up the parts that would be required for the Mazda, then checked local Craiglist for a few weeks until somebody posted the exact set on there I needed for $180 (guy even had the same model Mazda!) . It was in like-new condition.

I have even bought Thule j-racks and stackers un-used and in the original box on Ebay for less than half the “new” cost. Only component I ever bought at a store was a longer set of bars from EMS but I used one of their 20% off coupons for them. And since I sold the shorter bars to a friend for $40, my outlay was around half the list price.

List price is for people with deep pockets and no patience.

@Rookie said:

@Guideboatguy said:

. I’ll buy the stuff if I have to, but I will never say “you get what you pay for” because that isn’t remotely close to being true.

I have to disagree with you there. Quality and warranty counts. As an example, Thule and Kokatat are more expensive up front, but their products are high quality and they back them with their warranty.

To me, multiplying the cost of the stock items by as much as ten times that of the already-profitable retail cost from any reasonable source is not necessary just to pay for warranty service. They do it because they can.

Bit of trivia here: if you opt for extra long bars on your roof system so that you have extra room for multiple and/or wider boats, be aware that you will poke yourself in the eye or whatever body part comes level with those ends that extend past the footprint of the vehicle. The rack companies should make bar end “bumpers” for this.

If I ever have that set-up again I am going to try spray-painting rubber or tennis balls black and screwing them onto the bar ends. It will look funky, but not as funky as the black eye I gave myself from the 65" bars I swapped from a Dodge van to my much lower Volvo 740 wagon.

@Overstreet said:

@Guideboatguy
hardware store and see what a steel pipe costs that has the same diameter and wall thickness of a Yakima bar. Do you really think the black plastic coating onthe outside surface of the Yakima bar can account for the enormous price difference?)

Perhaps not, but the plastic coating keeps the cradles from rotating and spreading apart. It also rust inhibits. You can use multiple coats of spray tool grip coating, but it doesn’t coat or survive as long. It also works right now. How much is your time worth?

The plastic serves a purpose, but that’s not the point. The point is that the plastic is the only thing that’s different on a bar that costs many times as much as anyone else would charge. That makes it robbery any way you look at it.

@Guideboatguy said:

@Rookie said:

@Guideboatguy said:

. I’ll buy the stuff if I have to, but I will never say “you get what you pay for” because that isn’t remotely close to being true.

I have to disagree with you there. Quality and warranty counts. As an example, Thule and Kokatat are more expensive up front, but their products are high quality and they back them with their warranty.

To me, multiplying the cost of the stock items by as much as ten times that of the already-profitable retail cost from any reasonable source is not necessary just to pay for warranty service. They do it because they can.

Except your not running a business when you’re at a hardware store buying pipe.

Anything flat on the roof for the boat to initially sit on is easier for solo loading a kayak than Jbars. That can be saddles or glide pads, or stackers where you load the boat flat onto the cross bars then flip it on edge once it is up. But flat is easier than angled to slide the boat up.
You may want to get wide enough cross bars that you can paddle with a friend and carry two kayaks. Width of the cross bars determined by how wide the boats are. Canoes tend to be very wide, probably not going to be a plan.
Everyone here has faced this dilemma. I and my husband always opted for high quality racks because the cost of losing a boat on the highway and causing a major accident is a whole lot more than the added price of getting a better unit.
One note, it is true in our experience that round bars are nosier than square ones. Varies with vehicle as well, but that seems universal.
There are ways around the rear spoilers. I haven’t had any use for a car that was not a box on wheels since my first car in the 70’s. So not only have I been living with them, manufacturers keep making them bigger.