Convince me to spend money on a new paddle

Once you have an all carbon paddle you will never want to use your old paddle ever again. It is probably more important than the boat.

A significant paddle improvement will change your life.

-I started with an all plastic paddle. I figured a paddle is a paddle.
-I graduated to a plastic paddle with aluminum shaft. I thought that was the better but is a paddle not a paddle?
-I graduated to carbon shaft with light weight glass blades and the world changed. i could paddle longer and faster. The distance increased and the opportunities increased. I thought I was in heaven. I became a kayaker.
-I was convinced to try an all carbon wing. I tried a few not sure I liked them. Then I tried the EPIC small-mid wing. For the last 12 years I have never used anything else except at rental places.

I am 5’6", mid 60’s, 150 lbs and I kayak SOT and regular kayaks on flat water or rivers. I paddle about 275 miles/year; lifetime about 5000. I have about 10 kayaks but these days mostly use my surf ski’s so quite a bit less wide than your 25 inches boat. They range from 19 to 21 feet, and 17 to 21 inches wide at the widest point. I also use it on my sit inside 19 foot 24 wide fiberglass – I just make it 2-3 cm longer since it is adjustable.

Ditto paddler235876. You may not feel that you have many paddling miles, but you learned a lot in a short time. Plastic blades wins against abrasion and impact, but I just make sure my heavenly Werner Kalliste carbon avoids the ground, and I hold tight so the Bay winds don’t blow it out of my hands.

Just saw Werner has an Ovation; only $580 on one site, $489 on another. Write up says, latest from elf workshops, proprietary magic, greatest thing since the ham samich, and 2 oz lighter. Two! I got lunch money in my pocket and needed another tomato stake, so I thought about retiring my Kalliste. Then I froze, " . . . beware because the weight savings comes at the expense of strength." Hmm! Probably bend from wind shear as well, if I use one to stake tomatoes.

Carbon fiber has its downside in that it is so stiff compared to fiberglass that is there is no give, no shock absorbing ability to it, whereas a bit of flexibility can be easier on wrist joints. So for some people, like my wife, they may find that fiberglass is a better material than carbon fiber, even if it is a couple hundred grams heavier.

One of my Facebook groups includes a bunch of very ardent road and racing cyclists and there have been recent posts with photos of costly carbon fiber bike frames that literally disintegrated in mild impacts and even one frame that self-destructed while riding! Different construction and stresses, but it underlines the fact that the quality of the manufacturing is crucial. I’ve seen a lot of cheapo carbon wings and GPs showing up from Asian sources (mostly on Ebay) and I would be suspicious of the durability of those.

Cheap…Light…or Strong. You will ONLY get two. Pick…

That is why the newest Werner paddles have Dynel fabric incorporated into the edges of the blade to incorporate some additional strength and flexibility. That’s also why most high end kayaks are a blend of carbon fiber and Kevlar and not just carbon fiber.

Absolutely agree. All that glitters is not gold. On a bike, a deep scratch can render the frame dangerous. Paddle has different stress with less shock, but tensile strength can be challenged to the max in a strong sweep stroke.

A boat designer explained that fiberglass is used because it’s cheaper, adequately strong, and if I recall, more resistant to UV damage. The.miniscule weigh saving for a kayak is offset by cost, and the weight of the epoxy. The relatively heavier epoxy fills the fabric equally and negates the primary purpose. So I’m told.

Didn’t know about Dynel.

I agree. I would like to advise that fiberglass would be the best option. After a little searching on the oars, I found an article where it is well written about the choice of paddles How To Choose A Kayak Paddle Size Length For Fishing And Walking The choice of paddle also depends on your type of swimming on the water.

Barnibonn. I saw an alert and viewed. Can’t read full article presently, but you gave me something to look forward too. I’m good with my current paddle, but from what I scanned it does look thorough. I plan to read and pass on. I have a stange sense of humor (like some other un-name members). I laughed when I saw How to Choose a Paddle . . . for Fishing and Walking. Images of fishing with a walking paddle. I’ll respond when I review it.

Sorry. I also chuckled at the irony of paddlers who brave the gentle waters of Lake Eriie, where the freighters fear to go, express concern that rec boats should hug shorelines. Just joking - I mention in another thread that the difference isn’t the boat. It the confidence and knowledge, as well as the incredible acquired skill that protects an advanced paddler from in an environment that destroys ships. Fascinating!

I’ve accumulated reams of info from members, often unsolicited, because they feel it would be helpful. I’m not new to this but my level of performance has progresses further than I could have imagined. I wish I could figure out how to connect with those who are new to kayaking or canoeing. Info is here if you know how to find it.

I didn’t want to offend or offend anyone, I just expressed my opinion

Living on Lake Erie my whole life I can tell you the view doesn’t change being 100 yards off shore or a mile off shore. In a small paddleboat all you have to be is out past the breaking waves and you are good. You might not be where you want to be if the weather turns bad but you can be out of the water pretty fast. That’s no different than being on a river when the weather gets bad. The difference is on the lake some places there are cliffs that would beat you up on the beach during a bad storm. At least around here it wouldn’t be too hard to find shelter with not going too far.

That said I don’t have much desire to paddle on the great lakes in my canoe.

Yesterday I used my GP and remembered how much I love it. It is actually perfectly sized for me. Or I adapted to love the. length that it is. The finish on it is yellowing, though (it’s CF). I’m wondering if I should refinish it, or just enjoy it as is. Is there a non-toxic way to refinish CF? I have chemical sensitivities in the worst way, and get raging migraines.

Just leave it. The finish is only a UV inhibiting thing and still works. What brand Carbon Paddle is it Pru?

I came up with a solution for a problem nobody seems to have… a series of Greenland paddles , 3 different widths and 5 different blade lengths, all with adjustable looms. It’s the try several sizes and see what actually feels the best and works the best for any curious paddler. Seems as tho most just acclimate to what they have tho.

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If I had that many choose from, I’d be paralyzed from indecision!

It was made by Superior Kayaks. This paddle is now made by Nash Boatworks. Mine is a single piece, and very light. It’s the only GP paddle I’ve ever tried. I got it used many years ago for I think $100. They are selling for $495 now so I’m glad I still love it.

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Superior Kayaks LLC makes a very nice quality paddle. You did good.

The indecision of trying different size paddles usually only comes down to a couple after ruling out the others by width or extreme length or lack of length… After paddling several times, it usually comes down to between two {and they might be different widths.} A 10 mile paddle usually is a decider…so it’s not really that much of a paralyses and becomes rather fun…tho time consuming. The real problem is paddlers are so spread out…it is difficult for anyone to try all the paddles without Gatherings.

Several years ago, when Lendal NA was interested and considering making a Greenland Paddle to manufacture , I should of had this completed series…

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It is also of note that the reach up length test for sizing of a Greenland Paddle only is a ball park place to start, not the end all. If a person is really tall of shorter than average or has long arms or short torso. Or sits high in their kayak or low in their kayak all makes a difference in where the paddle contact the water.

This is why I went the try different paddles method. We are all different and like our paddles to preform for us …not just because a certain size preforms correctly for others.

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This makes sense. I have a very short torso but long arms. The only thing I would change about this paddle if I could would be the loom circumference. It’s larger than I would prefer and that is sometimes a problem, but not enough of a problem that I’m going to replace it.

So while we’re here, do you (or anyone) recommend any particular paddling mitts or gloves? I fear my NRS Maverick gloves no longer work for my hands after many hand surgeries in recent years (and more coming soon). They are too tight in painful areas now. I ended up paddling with bare hands yesterday and I won’t be able to do that much longer. My pogies don’t work well on my GP - I can’t slide them.

I like level six mittens…but they wear out sooner than some others…but it’s what I like.

If you are using an open hand / loose hand paddling technique , the loom size has very little effect and a larger loom is better. {with a cup-able round shoulder} The only place A smaller loom would be noticed is if you have tiny hands and are either doing an Angel roll or are walking and carrying the paddle by the loom center. Try loosing up your grip some as in cradling it rather than gripping it. {YMMV}

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I do not have tiny hands, and I do use an open very loose grip. Sometimes the paddle pops out of my hand. My other paddles all have small, shaped shafts and never pop out of my hand, so I figured it was related. Maybe my grip is too loose for such a featherweight paddle? I’ll have to play more and figure out what is the real issue.

Thanks for the mitt recommendation. I’ll check them out. I’m sad about these gloves - they’re in perfect condition, but pain is no fun.