Took a mental health day from work on Friday to enjoy a warm and sunny Autumn day on the water. Plan was to paddle up the Jordan River about 10 miles, then enjoy the ride on the current back to my launch site. Even though I was paddling into a headwind, things were going great until I came to this:
Don’t know how deep the river was there. Had a knife with me, but not a chainsaw (mine’s electric, anyway). Considered hauling my kayak out and around, but there are homes on both sides of the river there. That would be a tresspass - and I’d have to do it twice. I wasn’t wearing a drysuit and the water was cold.
The big trees blocking the river on the right show up on Google Maps. The pine tree barring all traffic looks like it might have been deliberately placed there this summer.
That car in the foreground is parked at a Michigan DNR access site to the river. I guess the DNR guy who sanitizes the outhouses never looks at the river.
Couldn’t figure out a way past, so had to turn back.
Any suggestions on what else I could have done to get through it? This was my one planned river paddle this year. Think I’ll stick to bigger water from now on. Waves are easier to deal with than trees.
I’ve scoped out a few rivers/streams with aerial photography in the past, only to find a multitude of trees barring the way. I’ve passed on those ones. Instead, I pick rivers that are commonly paddled, typically with outfitters that have a stake in maintaining the route. I asked one outfitter “who clears the trees?” The response was “in the spring, we take a canoe and a chainsaw or two down the river to clear any trees that block the way”. He then proceeded to show me the canoe, which had some very obvious chainsaw damage to the gunwales.
You could look into your “right” to portage if the river is navigable, but this is often a dead end due to the lack of respect that many people show toward private property.
It’s something you can get pretty good at with practice, especially with a canoe. Honestly, it’s a whole lot harder with a kayak and in spite of our local club having more than one-hundred kayakers I’ve yet to meet one who is able to get through an obstacle like this without help, yet in a canoe this one would be not too hard. Maybe someday add a solo canoe to your fleet? (We need younger folks like you to keep that side of the paddling sport alive).
This is a case where painter lines usually become a necessity, because putting the boat into a tight place where you can climb out is often also a place from which it is impossible to extricate the boat just by lifting. In this case, you’ll probably have branches overlapping the top of the boat from any place you can park and also climb out, like next to that cut-off tree trunk at water level on the left, but if once you are out you give the boat a shove away from the tangle while holding the painter, you can pull it back and hoist the nose (via the painter line) over whatever tangles are present. You might commonly need to reverse that procedure on the other side, sliding the boat over some tangles that are too skinny to stand on, giving the boat a final shove to clear everything, and just as your boat is yelling “yippee, I’m free!” you can say “not so fast” and tug it closer again to where you can guide it underneath those same tangles the boat just went over, close in to where you can step in. Of course with a canoe, you can step in or out from the ends, if the ends are the only part of the boat that can be positioned close to a location within the snag having solid footing, though I avoid that when I can because that’s a much less stable situation. On that note, except in very rocky rivers, the water WILL be much deeper (emphasis on “much”) at these snag locations because of the way the current is deflected downward (even if that deflection only happens at higher water levels, the erosion of the river bottom has already happened by the time you get there).
I have often pulled a solo canoe, even with a load, over a fallen tree about the size of the one blocking that channel, but in this case I’d try to get my feet onto that bigger stump on the right.
As to the DNR having some responsibility to clear this stuff, I don’t believe that’s the case, and most places with blockages are far more remote, to the point that no one will be checking in the first place.
If you can’t or won’t use the shore, it looks as if a lift-over, as described by Eric, is your only option. Admittedly easier in a canoe than a kayak since it is easier to get in and out of an open boat, and you can move along the length of the boat more easily.
If a tree has been down for a while, smaller branches can often be broken off by hand. I carry a small folding saw in my PFD which can handle a few larger branches.
Assuming that the current is not so swift that there is a danger of getting stuck beneath the tree, and assuming there is a clear enough space or that you can make a clear enough space, I would approach the tree abeam as it makes it easier to clamber in and out of the boat. If the tree is slippery, and they often are, you might want to sit straddling the trunk for stability while you lift and slide your boat over.
You can get what are called “pocket chain saws”. I used to carry a smaller version decades ago when backpacking – it was like a length of lightweight barbed razor wire with rings on both ends and could be used for cutting up thin to medium branches for firewood or to cut branches to rig tarp shelters. It did work pretty well for that. Sold hundreds of them to boy scouts and backpackers during my years in the outfitter biz. Would have made a nasty garotte and I sometimes shuddered to think what sort of damage the young scouts might have self-inflicted with it.
The modern versions are heavier (4 to 6 pounds) and seem to have a more traditional chain saw chain but can apparently handle thicker wood. You draw them around the branch and then pull back and forth in a friction sawing motion. I haven’t met anyone who has used one of these, so I can’t swear to the efficacy. But have thought of getting one, both to carry for river paddling and for the hiking trail clearing we often do around here.
I also used to carry a folding “Sven Saw”, which can be used to cut pretty thick trunks. One of these could be easily stashed in a hatch but would be awkward to use from a boat. Sven Saws (still made in America) are still sold by REI.
Pocket chain saws…and now the work out begins. Hope you have better luck than I with those.
I have a pruning saw that rides in my deck bag on small rivers and creeks. I think it would do 2/3s of those branches. I’ve cut up to 4" dia but that was short stroking. The folding buck saw might be needed for the larger one. Do not pull kayak/canoe up under the log and cut the log for (hopefully) obvious reasons. Lay up along side the log and cut cross cockpit. Cutting on the strong side can be a balance problem.
Some good ideas here. Thanks. Did some research and Michigan has a Recreational Trespass law which does allow conditional trespass:
“They [the public] should, as a matter of right, feel secure in making a portage around
any dam or other obstruction in a navigable (public) stream unless physically prevented
from doing so by the riparian owner. The banks of such a stream so far as they are
necessary to the exercise of the right of passage and navigation are subject to the public
easement.”
I do have a folding pruning saw with an eight-inch blade. Just never occurred to me to carry it. In retrospect, my 14-foot kayak would have been a better choice than what I was paddling. I think a lift over as described by pblanc would be easier with the shorter boat. Also would be easier to portage.
Sadly our streak of warm weather has ended, which means I’ll be wearing a drysuit for the rest of the season. Would have to see what’s sticking out on the other side of the tree before doing any tree climbing in my drysuit.
Also plan to call the DNR, which has placed a lot of restrictions on the Jordan because it’s designated as a wild-scenic river. The DNR manages that river and should know who keeps it open.
As to a canoe, well, there sure has been a lot of canoe eye-candy here lately. Maybe when I get my forward stroke perfected…
You may actually be able to paddle over it. Pick a low spot where the log also doesn’t look too supported. Chosen spot needs to be lower than the point of your bow. Paddle straight at it at speed and ram yourself up on it - as one might do when landing on a sandy beach and trying to get the boat as far up as possible. Speed will bring you forward, hopefully enough to get your body over the log, after which you can push off to finish it. If the log isn’t supported, your weight will push it down which will make it all easier.
If successful, you get to (or have to, depending on your point of view) do this again the other way.
Not for the faint at heart. And something better considered with a dry suit, skirt, and roll (you might have had all except dry), and a boat you aren’t worried about scratching.
@Peter-CA said:
You may actually be able to paddle over it. Pick a low spot where the log also doesn’t look too supported. Chosen spot needs to be lower than the point of your bow. Paddle straight at it at speed and ram yourself up on it - as one might do when landing on a sandy beach and trying to get the boat as far up as possible.
Sounds like wearing a helmet would be wise for that trick.
There is no spot lower than my bow point The tree is above the river all the way across. Navigable for Lilliputians, but I’d break something.
I did speak with a DNR guy in the natural rivers section this morning. Told me the DNR does not send out a crew to clear fallen trees. That’s left to fishermen and the two outfitters allowed to use the river…or the property owners who get tired of people crossing their property, so they clear the obstruction. The DNR fellow mentioned that massive pine seen in the left of the photo blocked the river for over a year before someone brought in heavy equipment to move it.
DNR stated paddlers have the legal right to portage around any obstruction that blocks river passage, so that’s the approach I’ll take on my next visit (plus pack a folding saw). But I’d ask permission first if the homeowner is around.
@string said:
I’ve cleared rivers with dynamite, but that would be frowned upon. It doesn’t work well on single trees.
Dynamite would get rid of those huge pine logs which impede half the river, but would probably take out the house as well. Pretty sure that would be frowned upon.
@string said:
I’ve cleared rivers with dynamite, but that would be frowned upon. It doesn’t work well on single trees.
Dynamite would get rid of those huge pine logs which impede half the river, but would probably take out the house as well. Pretty sure that would be frowned upon.
Well, this is a little off the topic but it’s funny so I’m passing it on. Years ago a friend of my dad’s, who was seriously involved in every locally available aspect of hunting and fishing, complained to the DNR that one of his favorite trout streams was being ruined by beaver dams. Yes, trout can thrive in beaver ponds but apparently in this case the water in the ponds warmed up enough to ruin the rest of the stream for trout. Anyway, the guy at the DNR said “I know all about that. Every now and then we dynamite those dams, but the beavers just come back again and rebuild. It’s a losing battle.” To this, my dad’s friend replied, “Well, if you take a stick of that dynamite and stick down into that HOUSE (referring to the beaver lodge), they won’t be back.” I guess the DNR guy didn’t care for that idea.
over, under, around- agree that it is easier to get out of the canoe than a kayak, but dragging the canoe through underbrush sucks more- my “most memorable” days have been on streams that were inundated with wood
small streams seem to change more than larger ones but honestly that’s part of the appeal
@string said:
I’ve done that too many times too count on SC and Florida rivers and streams.
Am guessing that if I was paddling it today, I could pull it off as all of our October rain has arrived in the last 24 hours (seven inches in some spots). Checking the NWS Hydrologic graph for the river, on Saturday it was at stage 3. Currently at 5.6 and still raining. I think that means the river’s up.
I have jumped over quite a few “speed bump” logs and have seen top whitewater boaters boof over and off obstacles that stuck out well above surface level. Probably OK in a Royalex or polyethylene boat. You might want to think twice about doing this in a composite hull.
I jumped a partially submerged tree trunk a week and a half ago in a tandem boat with my wife and two dogs in it on the Current River, MO and put a nice crack in the hull, which I had previously spent a good amount of time repairing. Now I have a new repair job.
