I have owned and traveled with Pakboat kayaks over the years so I will weigh in on the Quest. My Quest is the smaller 135, which they made for the first few years along with the 155, before redesigning the 155 a bit and dropping the smaller model. But it is still the same basic frame, hull and skin.
First off, it is wise to allow the skin to dry before storage – as with any item, you can get mold by storing something wet, but it is not hard to simply wipe off the skin with a towel and leave it draped over a railing or chairs until it air dries. That is really more important with inflatables than folders. If you have paddled in salt water, you should rinse it off, inside and out, with fresh water to prevent potential corrosion of the frame joints over time. I also use Boeshield T-9 lubricant on each joint when I set up my frames to protect against corrosion and sticking – not necessary if I know I will be taking the boat apart soon after use. That’s also true with hardshell kayaks (rinsing off sea water) – I’ve had to replace a lot of metal fittings on vintage sea kayaks that I have picked up used because the prior owners obviously left saltwater to dry on them over time. It’s also a good idea to not store the kayak set up for more than a month in storage, though since you are going to be storing it in your apartment, that doesn’t sound like an issue for you.
The baggage protocols have changed so much since I last flew (not since 2020) that you would have to check on them to know what you need to do to fly with your folder, I will say, having also owned heavier and larger folders (Feathercraft Kahuna and K-1 Expedition in the past and currently Feathercraft Wisper and Java) that the lightness and the compactness of Pakboats is much more manageable than those have been. When I took my 12’ Pakboat Puffin solo from the US to the UK in 2017, the entire 24 pound kayak, 4-piece paddle, PFD, flotation bags, sprayskirt, all my paddling clothing and even an inflatable roof rack system (for the rental car) fit easily into a regulation rolling duffel bag (62" unified inches and 48 pounds weight) and IcelandAir did not charge me at all for it. I towed that behind me while carrying the rest of my kit for the trip (street clothes and shoes, toiletries, etc.) in a backpack that converted to a suitcase that fit in the overhead compartment.
At 27 pounds, my Quest 135 has slightly longer poles so I have a larger rolling duffel for that which does exceed the “standard” 62 linear inches but can still be packed under 50 pounds with all I need for paddling except some of the clothing, which can go in a carryon. But even if your kayak and kit requires paying an “oversized baggage” fee, the usual $75 is still far less than having to rent a boat for a day or two at a destination.
As to your question about flotation bags reducing the storage, you can fully utilize the entire storage space in the hull by getting dry bags that double as flotation. These are a hybrid of the inflatable float bag and a dry bag: you fill them through a large opening with ypur camping gear, food, etc., then roll up and seal the opening and inflate the bag through the valve. having the packed gear fill the space excludes water from filling the hull in a capsize, which is the main purpose of float bags. Pakboat kayaks have inflatable skin tensioning sponson tubes inside the gunwales anyway, which add buoyancy and make the skin more taut to improve performance.
As for the sprayskirt, standard neoprene skirts are not a good idea for the Pakboat coaming – they put too much pressure on it and don’t hold well on the flat edge. Stick with a good coated fabric touring skirt that is a snug fit. PeakUK makes a lot of sizes of good fitting skirts. I can check and see if the one I use for my Wisper and two of my hardshell kayaks also fits the Quest (which is currently folded up in it’s bag.) A quality close-fitting fabric sprayskirt is perfectly adequate for most rough water touring and even rolling and deep bracing. You can also get or make a sea sock if you are concerned about water getting inside of the hull – I’ve used them in the past with my Feathercrafts, but find them awkward and a pain. I’ve never had a folder with flotation bags or cargo filling out most of the hull space take on more than a couple of liters of water in a complete capsize, which is not enough to affect stability and is easily pumped out from the cockpit.
If you are planning any overseas or remote trips where you want to take your kayak, a Pakboat will be more practical than the hard shell modulars, which require an oversized and bulky container which will surely require extra airline fees. And, as I mentioned above, you can transport a Pakboat in a rolling duffel which is easily pulled through an airport and onto ground transport until you can get your rental car.
Speaking of weight, I know you say that doesn’t concern you that much. but the difference between a 31 pound Quest and a 55 pound Mercury or 49 pound Pakayak is really significant. Either of the modulars will require at least 2 additional baggage fees rather than one – that’s $100 to $150 more expense per round trip flight, plus the awkwardness of juggling those 2 extra bags along with your carryon and/or other checked luggage once you land. I can take my packed Pakboat on a hotel or apartment building elevator or throw it in the boot of a taxi.
If you think of any other questions, let me know.
