My last Current Designs NA kayak addition

@PaddleDog52 said:
Wax it all up today. Compound the bottom. Monday dump the old style sliding pedals for new locking sea-lect pedals. Order wide base seat from CD and swap out like my other kayaks. Hopefully take it for a spin today. Haven’t been out in a long time due to other demands. Just put my Boston Whaler boat in last week.

As a guy with three boats that have the sliding pedals for rudder control I am curious how the new pedals work?
How much rudder control do you have with the greatly reduced pedal movement?
I’ve been planning to replace the pedals in one of my yaks and give it a try before converting the others.

You have the same movement full lock on the rudder each way. They are a ton better feeling on your feet. Always locked in.place and adjustable even from inside when sitting if you’re nimble. They bolt in the same holes in your hull now has.

You need to run new cables. Current Designs will send you everything you need to do it. Basic tools except for tool to crimp the swages on the cable. Those pliers are about 15 bucks if you can’t borrow a set. I have done about six conversions to date. Cost is about 100 in parts. I’ll post it after the bill me I just gave them debit number so I’ll see when I receive it. That’s my memory of cost. Look on YouTube for Sea-lect pedal video. Less than an hours work for a newbie.

I’ll take some pictures for a guide. Possibly new thread here. Wish I was good at making a video on YouTube.

I’ll be installing wide base seat also. That involves some glass work.

If you’re near me I’d do the conversion for you on Long Island NY for free.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rfTFA51xZmbGWraF7

Few videos there now.

http://topkayaker.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_90&products_id=501

Loon swage pliers are cheaper I think I have mine ten years or more.

Awesome. I’ve been wanting to convert to those pedals but didn’t know how well they actually worked with the older boat. I figured I would do it anyway and just do like my Chesapeake since it would be fine without the rudder.
The old dagger seeker may come first now since it could use all it’s lines, cables and bungees replaced anyway.> @PaddleDog52 said:

If you’re near me I’d do the conversion for you on Long Island NY for free.

Well thanks!
A very vey cool and generous offer but there is a Long Island on the Washington coast that I’m much closer to than I am to you!
Might not be practical to get the help. Besides threading the new cables I can’t imagine it’s much of a job.

@PaddleDog52 said:
They bolt in the same holes in your hull now has.

Not necessarily, but it’s not a big deal to drill new holes.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rfTFA51xZmbGWraF7> @rsevenic said:

@PaddleDog52 said:
They bolt in the same holes in your hull now has.

Not necessarily, but it’s not a big deal to drill new holes.

Exact same spacing as Yakima bolts. One kayak I painted I closed the holes and glassed the studs in like CD now does.

@PaddleDog52 said:
If you’re near me I’d do the conversion for you on Long Island NY for free.

Thanks, I appreciate the information and the generous offer. I’m a bit further north, on Cape Cod…

:slight_smile:

Wide base seat with adjustable height back, new Sea=lect pedal system, cables and ALL required hardware, and a few decals with shipping 295.00. Hopefully here soon.

Wish I was closer and could watch you do the work. What do you do with the old seats?

Still have most of them somewhere. I’ll try to post pictures as I go. Wide base seat is 17" regular is 15.5" from memory. They are simple comfortable super durable seats. IMHO

I usually sneak seat back 1/2" also easier to get in. I always keep seat back vertical or close to it.

@PaddleDog52 said:
Still have most of them somewhere. I’ll try to post pictures as I go. Wide base seat is 17" regular is 15.5" from memory. They are simple comfortable super durable seats. IMHO

Thanks!