Paddle for big paddlers

Fast Paddler.com also has the Braca XIII in sizes up to 837, little more user friendly shape than the XI which I love but will dive on you if you pull too close to the boat: Bracsa VIII X-Max/837 - Kayak Wing Paddle - FastPaddler® Chris Chappell will give you good advice.

I prefer a smaller blade, 675-705 myself for longer races 6-31 miles long 1-6 hours at a time.

– Andrew

Why would you pull a wing paddle next to the hull? I never used one but from what I have read and seen you don’t pull a wing near the hull. You would lose the effect of the foil. Yes, no?

Right, some wings are less forgiving of this than others. My Braca IV does not dive, but my Braca XI as it has more twist does. So I use the IV for longer distances when my technique is not as perfect. Those used to flat paddles find the XI harder to adjust to, which is why I suggested the VIII.

So you should never be pulling be wing parallel with a hull?

So you should never be pulling be wing parallel with a hull?

Most surf ski coaches today teach that a wing starts close to the hull and then follows a “J” path ( on the left side), rather than flaring out as in an inverted V. As long as you hold the paddle correctly, plant, and rotate – rather than try to force / direct it with your arms, the blade will naturally find a good path.

When I first started using a wing I expected that it should flare away from the hull dramatically but several racing coaches said that was no longer in “fashion”.

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Have to look on YouTube to see how far out at end of the J from the hull.

I like it for my Vibe fishing yak that I sit high in. It’s the first yak I’ve had that I’m comfy in.

Wing stroke starts close to, or even touching the hull at the catch and flares out about to about a foot or more from your hip at the exit.
A good short video I like is “Paddling with Zsolt”: Paddling With Zsolt - YouTube.

For a real masterclass in wing technique Google Ivan Lawler’s videos.

Looks like a vee to me. Not near the sides of the hull.

Here are few other points that I don’t think have yet been made:

  1. Big blades generally have more swing weight, and thus there is more inertia to overcome each time you plant the blade into the water and each time you remove it.
  2. Big blades generally have more wind resistance, which will slow progress when heading into the wind.
  3. The optimum blade size probably depends at least partly on the strength of the paddler and the drag of the yak.
  4. Training with a larger than optimum blade might maximize conditioning effects.
  5. To test the effects of different paddles, check not only the feel but your speed, heart rate, and estimated calorie expenditure.

How do you estimate your calories?

Many heart pacers and fitness bands provide an estimate of calories burned during exercise. They use at least inputted body weight and monitoring of the pulse, and sometimes other variables. To compare two paddle’s effect on your maximum speed in a yak or canoe for given water and wind conditions, you usually need to do so with relatively short distances to assure comparable conditions–preferably with several runs with each. If paddle A gives 5.0 knots and paddle B gives 4.9, but the former burned 6 percent more calories, then over a long haul Paddle B is likely to be faster–presuming the conditions for the long haul remain the same as those tested. That suggests testing the two paddles under the varying conditions that are likely to be encountered during a long run, and perhaps taking two paddles, each for the conditions in which it excels.

Testing and conditions are never that stable. Even with heart monitoring it’s a guess at best or rough estimate. Maybe teathered in a test tank with many monitors they might do better. All these apps like mapmyrun are a wild guess.

I just posted a new topic “How to Compare the Efficiency of Different Paddles” that was prompted by my recent order of a new paddle and by your and my comment immediately above. I welcome your thoughts on it.

I recall another post about “convince me to spend more money on a paddle”. After reviewing and responding to a number of posts about paddles, it occurred to me, if you have to ask the question, you don’t need a better paddle - You already found it.

Many have never tried a high end, high performance light paddle. Some will never care about performance they’re floating and moving at 2 mph. Great thing now I think is adjustable length shafts and feather’s. Cuts down on how many paddles you need.

Agree there! When I go out with new paddlers, I first let them use their own paddle. On the next outing, I offer the use one of my high end paddles. It’s surprising how often they elect to keep using an aluminum shaft paddle.

Short slow outings?

New paddlers tend to get tired in less than 5 miles. I’ll work on their paddle stroke for a while, then switch off with another paddling partner to hang with them. They’ll use their paddle on the first trip, then I let them pick from paddles in my stock, ranging from my first paddle, a 220 cm high angle fiberglass Carlisle, which I still like; a few Aqua Bound fiberglass shaft with fiberglass/nylon blades, several Aqua and Werner carbon shafts with fiberglass blades and several all carbon.

I thought everyone would prefer the lightest paddle, but not so. Paddle preference varies. My nephew started kayaking this year and he’s up to 16.5 mile trips; he prefers the Aqua Manta Ray.

You made a good point about conditions. From our conversations, I’m leaning toward a blade with less sq inches. My Kallistes at 99 sq in are 240 and 250 cm. I’m considering the Shuna at 95 sq in, but I like a foam core. I bought my granddaughters the Little Dipper (85 sq in); it’s only 210 cm, but I’m going to try it to see if a like a blade that narrow. The Cyprus is 94 sq in, but it’s high angle; if I get high angle it’ll be the Ikelos in 220 cm for use when I hit waves. Gets expensive, especially since I have a selection of useable paddles. Decisions, decisions. $500 isn’t bad for any one paddle, but it’s never just one paddle. My advice - if you like you’re cheap paddle, keep using it. When you get tired of swinging it or don’t like the bubbles rolling off the blade when you push it, you’ll get a better one.

Whatever size blade or paddle style you employ, learn the mechanics of a good forward stroke - different among wing, GP, and Euro paddles. I had an interesting interaction with my youngest (26 year old) granddaughter last summer. We paddled on two occasions. I decided to give her some tips on the forward (Euro style) stroke. There’s actually quite a bit of detail, so on the first trip I gave her just a few tips. When we got home, she said that her Grandpa “was VERY fast and STRONG”. On the next trip, I continued to fill out the paddling tips and she then improved significantly, i.e. better form, faster, etc. When we go home after that excursion, she did NOT say that her Grandpa “was VERY fast and STRONG”. Sorry to see her illusions fade,