I have an Aquabound Expedition carbonfiber paddle that has been very good to me on the water, but is now a problem. I can’t twist, pull or pry the paddle apart. The ferrule broke off into the paddle. It’s stuck in it’s unfeathered position, and several very large Marines couldn’t pull it apart. Aquabound would fix it, but FedEx won’t ship it to them because at it’s full length, it’s too long. Even if I could ship it, it would cost a fortune like this.
I’ve tried squirting some wd-40 into the hole where the ferrule should be, but no luck. Any thoughts, suggestions? I bought the paddle in March 2003.
Do you own a pair of channel lock pliers
– Last Updated: Dec-08-04 5:57 PM EST –
by chance? It seems to me that the only way to get it apart would be to free the two halves by TWISTING as you pull. Channel locks will probably work with some protection (latex glove or similar) between the pliers and paddle shaft. Channel locks are made for gripping bare pipes.
Either they'll work or you'll break the shaft trying.
I have the same paddle. Upon examining my own, I would recommend gripping the shaft on the half that contains the ferrule, as close to the joint as possible, as that area is about twice as thick as the half with the ferrule holes.
Tried pliers
But not channel lock pliers. The cheaper pliers slipped I used slipped and didn’t do much good. If they’re really better, I’ll head to the hardware store.
Channel locks are MADE to grip pipes
and not slip. As you try to turn the pliers, they grip more tightly, the grip increases in proportion to the pressure you apply, but you have to have them facing the right way.
Good luck.
Not So Much Force
Try twisting the two parts back and forth using a firm, but not killer grip. You might be surprised, it might break it lose where brute force as failed.
Just a side note, one way to avoid
this problem would be a Greenland paddle ;o)
pipe wrench
At most good tool stores you should be able to a wonderful tool usually called a “strap wrench”. It’s basically of a reinforced rubber strap attached to a handle. They are made for pipe fittings you don’t want to mark up like chrome sink drains. It won’t tear up the surface and won’t crush the tube. With 2 of them you should be able to twist the sleeve loose.
Yeah, that would be better if you can
find one.
same paddle,almost same problem
I had a real hard time with this same paddle this summer, But I got it apart by holding one blade between my feet and twisted the other blade until it broke loose, then sanded the sucker with 800grit.
I’m shure that was not the best way…but it is still tight and comes apart,
Heat…Hair Dryer
Heat the out side furrel quickly with a hair dryer as two people pull and twist the paddle. The outside furrel should expand enough to free it up. Be sure to rub nose grease on it before putting it back together.
heat and cold?
and maybe ice down the male side before using the hair dryer on the female side…then twist and pull after you’ve lubed it up?
worst case is cut it and end up shortening it
visegrips
krousman,krousman, what goes on in your mind son. You cannot lock a pair of visegrips on a tubular fiberglas shaft. It will only deform to failure.
The heat/cold/finness option is probably the best bet.
Good thought…
a cold wet towel around the male side would help.
AHHHHHH you guys are killing me!!!
Paddle speaking… Vices, vise grips, channel locks , big pliers, PIPE WRENCHES are all the kiss of death for composite tubes… Tube only needs a bit of crushing / notching to occur to introduce where it will fail when you least do not want it to. Heat will not work because :
Save the heat for rusty backband hardware…chances are the ferule and shaft are exact same material and thermal expansion will be the same… in the case of the AB paddles, the newer ones use a sort of plastic ferule ( one of the reasons it is now welded together BTW) and this less dense plastic will only swell up more and faster than the shaft itself… EXTREME HEAT might allow it to come apart but will probably exceed the HDT of the shaft resin … still no good.
Barracuda had it right… micro movement will break it loose. If poss. soak overnight, when you have time, place it between your legs/feet/calves w / one blade on the floor… use one hand to hold it right at ( lower section) the joint and the other a pretty high up the shaft as you are looking at it… just start rocking it back and forth 90 % with 10 % sort of pulling it apart… be patient and keep it moving… even re- immerse it and repeat… it WILL come loose… no need to try and twist it 'till you get some movement from rocking… once you get it to move you have it on the ropes. Having two giants at either end will only damage blades long before full force reaches the joint… most of twisting force is lost winding up the blades and shaft… ferule sees very little of the force… For a bit more twisting/gription as you are working it loose. wrap a couple inner tubes or rubberbands around shaft for more twising leverage.
Soak it over night in?
Soak it in water?
Some sort of lubricant?
This is a semi recurring problem with one of my Werners. I think sand gets into it. I get it apart eventualy by twisting and pulling (by hand -no tools). Seems to help if it’s wet.
Thanks,
Tommy
Helping Devices…
I used an old rubber neck gasket once to get a grip and work a stubborn ferrule. I now have a set of these rubber strap “wenches” that actually work much better. Find them at your local hardware store.
sing
Well what about a bench grinder or
Dentist drill? won’t that work? "8-P
YEAH! POWER TOOLS!!
– Last Updated: Dec-09-04 9:40 AM EST –
Finesse-shminesse... brute force is the answer. I wonder if you could borrow the 'Jaws of life' from the local firehouse.
No, really, here's another idea. Put on a pair of those yellow latex gloves, get someone else to do the same, each of you grab that shaft with both hands close to the joint and work it (twisting).
Hey
Try Blasting Compressed air at it. If you can some how inject the Air it should work. works great for removing Hand grips on Bikes!!
Take it to a lake …
Take it to a lake where there are lots of drunks on PWCs:
Use 2 pieces of 75 foot length rope. Tie a bowline on a coil around the throat of each end of the paddle with ends of ropes.
With the remaining loose ends of the rope, tie a bowline on a coil around the neck of 2 drunk drivers of PWCs. Bribe them with beer, and tell them they’ll get the chance to capsize some kayakers.
Get the PWCs to position themselves back to back, approximately 10 feet apart. Position the paddle between them; floating on the water, with as much slack as possible in the ropes.
Launch 2 kayakers, and have them position themselves approximately 70 feet to the front of the PWCs. At signal from person in area of safety; have kayakers give PWC drivers the finger, holler something about “their mother”, then quickly paddle away.
Repeat process as many times as necessary, with as many PWC drivers as necessary, till paddle part separate.
BOB