Rig a Pintail (no donkey)

Since I never had monkey fists
Since I never had monkey fists I only assumed that tethering them was a good idea. Could you tell me otherwise? (it will save me 2 feet of bungees :slight_smile: )

Deck rigging is subjective, but since you asked, I’ll tell you what I think about your layout.

If you want to bungee your toggles/monkey fists, I’d use the furthest front deck fitting, not that one a couple feet further back on deck.

For the 3 RDFs just forward of the bow hatch, you could run bungie from each side to the center one, so that a split could be secured under those, and then use bungee or rope through tubing to create a raised hoop between the two side fittings, so you could slide a GP under that loop.

In back, I don’t see the point of having bungee running along the centerline of the deck behind the aft hatch. Similarly, I’d skip the X just aft of the compass, as I find too much rigging on the foredeck just obscures the chart (which is about the only thing I ever stow up there anyways).

While you’ve got all the lines off, you might want to polish and wax the deck. It’s much easier with a clear deck.

a split
Nate said: “For the 3 RDFs just forward of the bow hatch, you could run bungie from each side to the center one, so that a split could be secured under those.”

What is the split for? At this point I can’t think what I would put there. The only thing I cold think of is the spare paddle and I want it to go right through the center.

Waxing and polishing

Thanks for your opinions. That is what I am after. I also did not think much of the forward bungee for tethering and it is quite likely that it would have been abandoned in the final act of setting it up.

What materials and tools do you use to do the waxing and polishing?

Might be harder to grab in surf etc…

– Last Updated: Oct-12-10 4:58 PM EST –

Tethered monkey fists may be harder to grab in rough seas than loose ones. The tether also looks like something to grab in rescues which is not good as it is bungee.

I've put monkey fists on my Nordlow and Romany. My Aquanaut still has the tethered toggles with which it came. In rescue practice a week ago someone grabbed the tether to haul the boat up over her foredeck to empty. It didn't work so well.

3M Finesse-it II
My favorite to use to polish the decks while I have the rigging off is 3M Finesse-it II.


Sorry. A split refers to a 2-piece paddle.

ooh :slight_smile:

– Last Updated: Oct-12-10 7:42 PM EST –

i thought you referred in the middle position of the bungee which effectively splits the boat sides to either left or right. I wasn't entirely sure what would I possibly bungee there but I knew I do want to run the greenland paddle right through the middle and so I found the middle bungee tether irrelevant.

Do you polish mechanically or
Do you use any kind of buffing machine or do you do this by hand? I guess there might be a way to attach some kind of buffing onto a rotary sander or something like that?

Today I kind of whittled 2 wooden risers
Today, I bought 2 small wooden blocks, drilled hole through then and then rounded them up on one side. I tested threading the bungee through it and then tested how it would work on the kayak. It appears that it will work fine. I can’t wait to put this on. I will take a picture of it after I buff the fiberglass by using Wilson’s tip for a polisher from West Marine. I will buy that tomorrow.

orbital buffer
I use an orbital buffer I picked up at West Marine a few years ago for around $25

I would imagine a buffing pad on an orbital sander would work as well.

The Risers


It’s Done
Here is the newly rigged Pintail:





Mine is a '93
I’ve only seen one other purple boat and only this one that’s purple over gray. Frankly, I’d much rather have a white hull.

You can do the same thing I did. Read the captions on the pics for details of the process and the products I used.

Good idea
I like the color coding idea, but as you can see from my photos, I use very little bungee on my boats. Cord with sliders simply works better in most applications and it doesn’t loosen up with age.

Just do what I did…
…in this shot:


You’re boat doesn’t have a compass, so it’s even easier.

As for the bungee for the grab handle, why make it so long when you can just connect it to the deck rigging like I did here:


It seems overly complicated
You don’t NEED to use every fitting on the boat, just because they’re there. IMO, simple is better. Think about what you actually need to have for carrying items on deck, then lay it out accordingly. Remember, you can always change it if the need arises.

Speaking of carrying things on deck, I suggest that you keep that to an absolute minimum. All I carry on-deck is my spare (storm) paddle, contact tow (two ‘biners with 3’ of cord), a chart (if needed), hood (if I may need it), gloves (if I’m not wearing them) and perhaps my throwing stick if I’m planning to practice rolling with it. Although that list may seem long, the items other than the paddle take up very little room and add little height to the deck that could cause issues with paddling or rolling. Items like pumps and paddle floats always go inside my boats, where they are out of the way, but readily accessible when I need them.

In rescues, you should be grabbing…
…the perimeter deck lines, not the toggle. Toggles are small and easy to miss when you need to grab quickly. They’re subject to wear and breakage, which typically happens at the worst possible moment. Perimeter lines are a much bigger target, PROVIDED that you elevate them as I do on my boats. When you get right down to it, any deck rigging is essentially useless if you can’t grab it easily with gloved hands.

Much better

– Last Updated: Oct-14-10 9:15 AM EST –

However, I STRONGLY suggest that you replace some of the rigging right in front of the cockpit with cord and sliders, so you can actually SECURE your spare paddle. Bungee cord sucks for any application where something really needs to be secure and a spare held only with bungee will flop around when waves hit it and will likely come out in rough water. With cords and sliders, it will not move, but you can still yank it out in an emergency.