fishing from my canoe lately, and wondering if there’s a rod holder that can easily be attached and detached from the gunwhales or around the gunwhales and onto the side of the canoe. the Scotty website shows no such animal, they all require serious mounting. surely there must be a quick on/off rod holder for canoes…
I took a 1’x6" treated board, cut it the
width of the canoe, then ripped a 1 1/2" wide piece from the left over stock, cut it to fit the width under the gunwales, drilled two holes through the pieces, mounted two Scotty rod holders and the mount for my fish finder on the 1x6 and used bolts, washers, and wing nuts (for ease of removal) to clamp the top board "deck" to the canoe. Before attaching the rod holders and finder mount, I used a router to round over the edges. That can also be donw with and electric palm sander or with hand sanding and elbow grease. It worked, have to sometimes re-tighten the wing nuts, but not excessively and usually only after I bump it hard. My next plan is to make a work deck in a similar fashion and mount the rod holders and fish finder to it. Just did the 1x 6 because I had it and wanted to get fishing.
Like to see a photo if you get time
between paddles . . . .
I use the clamp on rod holder from Down East - works great.
Its very simple.
The 1x6 sits on top of the gunwales, the narrower strip goes under the guwales. Two bolts with washers on either side prevent the bolts and wing nuts from pulling through. The bolts go through both pieces, I placed the bolts near the gunwale to be able to put the most pressure on the gunwale to hold securely. The wing nuts are on the top side. Essentially, you are building a clamp. I've mounted on rod holder on each side of the canoe, the fish finder, a Eagle Cuda 138, sits in the middle. Total cost: Two Scotty rod holders, $15 each: lumber...no cost I had it, but around $5 for an 8 ft piece: hardware, less than $3 for two bolts, 4 washers and two wing nuts (actually, they came 4 to the package for a buck, nuts, that is). Didn't use stainless as its not the permanent mounting and I've used similar methods to attach work decks to my kayaks, the zinc coated fasteners held up with a spray of WD 40 or other lubricant on occasion.
If I get around to building the work deck, it will probably have 4 rod holders and the fish finder, along with a bit of room to cut bait and work with tackle. I'm starting kitchen demolition, so won't be on the water for a while, also my wife has started back teaching for the fall and I'll be taking care of our grandson (4 yrs old) who we raise. Don't know when I'll be able to post pictures anywhere. Back to fighting power boat and jet ski wakes on weekends.
BTW, the same system will work with a recreational kayak. My "work deck" for my Loon consists of one of those shallow coke crates used for 20 ounce bottle six packs and is held to the coaming with a similar clamp system. I built a wooden deck with a three sided "box" open on the cockpit side for my Necky Sky and used the same clamping system. Found the coke crates, great for my tackle bag and soft sided cooler.
now that looks extra simple
just clamp and go.
Cool . . . .
I just used a 3/4" piece of plywood, shaped to fit in under the combing, painted it, mounted a Scotty and a cleat for my anchor line and stapled some pipe insulation around the corner of it. The plywood jams up into the combing tight enough with no clamps, screws or bolts needed.
BTW, I test paddled a Loon 120 today on a retention pond outside Gander Mountain. Not much faster than my America 11. Not worth upgrading anyway. I’ll try to get a 138 to test and if I don’t like that, I’ll have to start over . . . .
Native Watercraft’s 14 footer looks good, plus the second seat for a passenger. But the weight is nearly unmanageable solo, and I’m guessing it’s a barge to paddle upriver. . . .
(sigh… woe is me)
Simple, but expensive. Of oourse, if
don’t need buy one rod holder, its not bad.
I wouldn’t expect much difference
between the America and a Loon 120. You may not find a lot of speed difference with the 138. The Loon’s forte is stability and tracking. I’ve not paddled the 120, but the 138 is a big ol’ boat. Its width is going to preclude any great speed. You will find that it tracks true in almost any condition. I’ve had mine in 30 mph winds and it went where I wanted with little correction.
But, its not the most maneuverable boat out there when it comes to turning. In turning, its sort of like the difference between a Corolla and a Tahoe. You can’t beat the room of a 138 though, especially the older models with the sliding seat…allows for trim, but also for stowing more gear behind the seat.
As I recall, you paddle rivers. Don’t remember if they are wide or narrow and twisty, nor whether they have fast water where you need to make corrections. In the first situation, the Loon 138 is great, but I’d go for a 12 foot or shorter for smaller streams. Don’t know if its available anymore, but he 111 was a kickass boat for those conditions.
See if you can paddle a Dagger Blackwater 12 or the Perception Acadia. The Wilderness System Pungo may be an option, or the Pamlico. But, I doubt you will get much speed advantage over the America. For that, I’d look at more of a transitional boat, maybe a Carolina or WS Tsunami.
BTW, if I’d had plywood on hand, that
is what I would have used. The deck I plan is probably going to be from 3/8" ply.
Scotty sells a rail mount
that with the addition of longer screws work great for canoe thwarts. Here is a pic of one on my solo canoe. I troll with these and they are rock solid:
The base stays on the canoe and does not interfere with loading on roof rack. Very low profile.
Yeah, I was putting a lot of effort into getting the America up to hull speed. But (after losing a paddle a few weeks ago on the river) I purchased a new BB 230cm Whisper on Friday and paddled with it yesterday AM. I got up to hull speed w/ much less effort. When I test paddled the Loon yesterday afternoon, they had the same paddle, so it was an apples-to-apples comparison. I noticed a slight dif, but not much. If the Loon 138 is wider, I can see where it would again, not be much difference. I really don’t want to go to a transitional, because I want the large cockpits available on the Loon or something similar. And the river I most frequent is wide and slow, with few tricky spots. Of course, I’ll still have the America for elsewhere.
I’d like to avoid Perception. My America is suffering from a bit of oil-canning, although not serious, but I’ve lost faith in their materials. One attraction to the OT’s is the 3 layer poly, which appears much stronger, at the expense of a little added weight, of course.
I think I’ll still test paddle a Native Watercraft 12 or 14, although with out many expectations there. The only dealer carrying them impressed me with his sincerity to get me in the right boat, not what he wants to sell, so I’ll rely on his advice there as well.
nice boat, sweet set up.
A local dept. store carries those
Meijer, kind of a Super-Stal-Mart beater. Although they started the Super grocery idea 20 years ago or more.
Anyway, the holders are $3.99. I tried one. Pretty much junk. The metal bends too easily, and once it does, the coating flakes off and rust begins.
I think Gander Mountain had a version, looked a little more substantial . . . .
Personally, I sprung for the Small Scotty holder. Well worth $15, imho.
Bass Pro Shop Rod Holders
I mount these rod holders
on the rail that goes across the canoe.
You will also need to buy these rail adapters
Except for the colder winter up there,
one of the sit on tops may work for you. To get much speed advantage, you’ll need to go to a 26" or narrower craft. The OT Loon 138 is 29.5, believe the Dirigo is about the same. The fact that you may not have to make as many corrective strokes with the Loon may make it a bit faster, or at least not as tiring…after you get it to the water. If the Perception oil canned, Dagger is also a Confluence boat.
Good info. Thanks.
I did see a Heritage SOT last night at a dealer. Looks pretty efficient, and only one scupper hole, that can also be plugged.
But I’d still like a SINK. The old LL Stingray 14 is looking good, although the new would be a Heritage with a new seat. I can get the old one for about $645 including shipping, but there’s no way to paddle it first. I might go ahead and take the chance. It’s only about 25-26", and seems like it would be a nice compromise between fast and stable.
At 14 ft, the extra length should add to
stability. The new seat is the same in Native and, now, Heritage kayaks. Legend, the parent of WC, merged (bought) with Heritage and LL. Lots of rearranging. I don’t know about the Stingray LL seat, but the one they put in the Manta Ray was rated very good by kayak fishermen. I’d love to get a Native seat from my canoe.
Went to my local dealer yesterday . . .
He doesn’t have them yet, and was pissed that the Stingray’s on the website. He said he can’t buy them yet. But he did have a Heritage Redfish 14. I just checked the specs on it, and it’s 31" wide. Man, it sure doesn’t show it. Looked really narrow to me. It’s tempting, but I just really want to stick with a SINK.
He also tempted me with a nice Tylon Tampico. 43 lbs for a 14’ for less than $1400. Cockpit’s a little small for my taste, but way bigger than most touring yaks. Still thinking about the $599 plus $45 shipping deal on a LL SR 14 . . . .
My wife’s gonna kill me if I get one, and want a new one again next year. lol