Ok so what is the top speed if you hull.
Sprint to or me is not measured in miles it’s more the fastest I can paddle my hull in a short distance like a 30 second blast.
If I wanted to teach someone to lay brick in a wall or I wanted to learn to lay brick. It doesn’t work well with charts and reading to them. It doesn’t even work well with pictures.
We laid block and brick when building several homes for family. On the last one, my brother had a friend who did it for a living. The friend stopped by and shook his head, then started pulling it apart to show the easier way.
I’m not sure a video would help because Craig has to modify his stroke to accommodate his back. He also uses a longer paddle that would surely garner some comments, and the feathered blades.
Try it nothing to lose.
anyone can use anything I’d like to see either of you show your skills.
If someone can take a tempest for three miles at 6.37 miles average I beg to see it.
I’d love to see your 80 SPM with an 240 or 250 CM Kallista.
I’m not the one here trying to advocate a particular paddling style, and I’m not challenging that what you do works the best for you. I’ve been trying to correct a few points as I see them. Sorry if you’ve seen them as a challenge.
The other reason why we’re talking past each other is that I really don’t care about my speed as long as it’s sufficient to take me where I want to go in the allotted time. And although like you I am into multiple sports including cycling, I have no interest in tracking any of them.
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I’ll get my nephew to video using his drone. He’s a manager of a department store so it’s tough to coordinate his days off. I’ll have to go to York, PA. It’s an 1 1/2 but my son lives up there as well. I’ll make a micro lmbrew pub crawl out of it. I’ll try to get it before the season is over. Maybe see if Craig can make it.
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I’ll have to figure out how to load it.
Make YouTube account and load video there. Look at bottom of page for + sign and hit that then choose video and it uploads.
Bottom center of page
Click on picture and scroll down to + sign.
6.37 mph for 3 miles is great. What’s your maximum speed in the hull for a short burst? Thanks.
No a video is better . ANYWAY PAUSE.
If you purchase used, you can usually effectively try out a kayak for free or for very little. If you’re not in a situation where you can find fellow paddlers and try out their gear, you might as well buy something inexpensive used, use it for a while, and if you decide you want something different, you can resell it. It’s a bit of a cumbersome method, but it’s fun, and you’ll learn a lot while spending less than if you purchased something new. Because those paddles are expensive! Sometimes you can even buy a used kayak and it’ll come with a paddle…
The difference between the more expensive and less expensive paddles from Werner is simply that the more expensive paddles are made of carbon and are therefore lighter in weight. This will yield a lot less fatigue over the course of a long paddle. But fiberglass paddles are good, too.
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I have a fiberglass Werner Shuna carbon shaft and it’s really nice just a bit to long and small for me. I got it when I bought my Solstice. My first Ikelos CF I got for half price on eBay few scratches but who cares.
Sell it to OP! 
You can do low angle with an Ikelos also. I have a Ikelos 205, 215, and Celtic 750 205-215, also a 210 Corryvreckan. I love the ability to adjust paddle length in a nano second. 10 CM seems like a huge difference.
Ikelos gives the smoothest entry because of the smooth back. Splitting hairs but there is a difference.
I have Have a Kallista CF Werner I tried to sell shipping is expensive and it became a chore dealing with people. Having a piece of solas reflective tape on it became a big deal a few times and does it have a scratch. It is near new with a ton of excellent pictures take it or leave it. So I just said forgetaboutit 
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True, selling stuff takes a high degree of patience with the tire-kickers.
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And the first paddle you buy isn’t a waste of money becomes your spare paddle for the deck. An often overlooked piece of safety gear.
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The primary reason I like Werner paddles is the sleek blade design of their premium level paddles, including the Cypus (610 cm2; 22.5 oz), Ikelos (691 cm2; 23.75) and Kalliste (643 cm2; 22.5 oz). Each model has the same class features: a carbon fiber shaft and the blade is foam core carbon fiber. The result is a stiffer but lighter overall weight with far less swing weight. Another advantage of the streamlined face and back is the significantly lower turbulence as the blade stabs into the water, but it mostly cuts with the forward, lower edge of the paddle. Both high and low angle have essentially the same clipped assymetric tip for a reason, so they both can be used efficiently in . . . “Low Angle” mode. For the discriminating paddler looking for optimal performance for low angle paddling, you may want to consider the Kalliste paddle. It has the same propritary design features but with a narrower blade witdth that minimzes the torque. As the blade catches the lower edge first, the reduced torque might prove satisfying If you hands suffer grip fatigue while paddling. Otherwise, you would probably prefer our big Ikelos, especially if you want instant response. However, becsure to folliw sizing recommendation posted at the end of this treatise.
Unless I’m missing something on the Werner webpage, the Shuna (615 cm2; 27.75 oz), Camano (650 cm2; 26.5 oz) are carbon/fiberglass construction; the Little Dipper (550 cm2; 27.75 oz) is listed as fiberglass construction for both shaft and blade (despite the heavier fiberglass base material used throughout, the relatively lower weight is due to the smaller smaller blade area). Compared to the sleek back and paddle face of the premium models, this class of paddle uses a shovel-back method of attaching the blade to the shaft, similsmar to typical competitive brands such as Aqua Bound. One feature of Aqua Bound paddles is how most models are offered in a range of material, including fiberglass with plastic blades, fiberglass, hybrid (I believe it’s a combination of carbon shaft with fiberglass blades), and all carbon. That allows the buyer to select a paddle model with class chsracteristics in a weight/price range that meets the paddlers preference.
For readers that are new to kayaking, it’s important to realize that cited paddle weight is probably based on the manufacturer sampling production for the lightest example, and probably based on the shortest model. For example, the smallest version of Little Dipper, Camano and Kalliste appear to be rated at 220 cm, while the Ikelos is available in 205 cm, which means you’re comparing apples to oranges with the Ikelos being 15 cm shorter than the length/weight rating of the others. Does that matter? Only if selection is based on weight criteria. Go to multiple sites and review specifications. Werner and NSR rate the Kalliste differently (22.5 and 23 oz), whereas my 250 cm Kalliste actually weighs 27 oz. Even if comparing an actual .5 oz difference, is it discernable? . . . As far as you know . . . ?
It may help with selection by hold a straight out to accentuates the weight difference - hold a 1 1/2 lbs (22 ozs) and 2 lbs (32 ozs) weight with youre arm stretched out, for as long as you feel comfortable. There is a measurable difference, but do you notice it or care since you won’t paddle that way. However, you will actually bear that weight longer in the kayak. If your floating in river current, or paddling to the middle of a placid pond, or your cadence is 40 strokes per minute, does it matter? Compare that to fighting tidal currents, wind, and waves over many miles; or if you’re kayak is loaded with camping gear; or you don’t want to feel encumbered by the weight of a heavy paddle; or you are trying to increase your cadence to overcome the long transition interval between the exit and catch (that distance is the significant difference between low and high angle techique and paddle selection that many paddlers apparently don’t consider).
I began focusing more on control when a novice paddle pointed out the sense of control she felt between a 240 and 250 cm Kalliste. I never noticed that because being of a larger stature, both lengths were equally easy to control, but I did notice her point. Length just wasn’t significant to me, nor was the weight or any leverage adbantage. Neither paddle showed a measurable advantage in avg speed, or affected my ability to remain in an aerobic state. Converselt. my slightly built tall sister had a different “opinion.” She used my 250 cm often, yet preferred the 240 cm Kalliste. Opinions are influenced by factors such as physical build, strength, paddling style, and perhaps most of all - expectations.
Although typically considered a negative trait, weight dampens deflection and vibration, dihedral adds balance to tracking but also sheds water more readily. Does that matter so much with you’re paddling technique? For example, it takes practice to accurately track the high angle stroke, especially when overreaching for the catch, through the torso rotation as your shoulder and bicep muscles coordinating the complex articulation of the paddle swinging highs overhead toward a clean catch, with the off side paddle swinging high overhead and crossing the body like a 3D pantograph, which compresses the rib cage while trying to keep the paddle blade facing square to the water and avoid a high speed slap, while trying to track accurately throug to the exit. Then you lift the paddle blade high overhead (this is where overall weight amd swing weight become significant factors), and race to the catch as fast as possible to compensate for the high resistance of a large paddlers face, while minimizing he unproductive interval between the exit and the catch. That is why a cadence of 40 to 60 is common for high angle paddling.
Weight becomes an issue the more aggressively you paddle, so you can better control the blade as it blends into the slip stream without blunting speed or shocking those crossed up joints. I wonder if paddlers who complain of joint pain consider analyzing paddling technique.
The low angle technique is generally considered far slower with excessive yaw and is generally only suggested for leisurely paddling. Based on this thread, paddle efficiency favors a shorter high angle paddle (everybody seens to agree, even ignorant little me), for both high and low technique. Consequently, the 230 cm Kalliste is clearly inadequate for high angle use, and the 210 cm Cyprus is undeniably a better choice. It seems arrogant to imply a 210 cm paddle functions adequately for low angle, unless the claimaint is unwittingly willing to discard the key advantage of the low angle form. If the high angle blade area is matched to the paddle length that provides the right mechanical advantage for the power of a high angle sweep. Why would the paddler even resort to low angle technique considering the superiority if high angle. After all, every additional inch of paddle length contributes to the duration of the power phase of the low angle stroke.
The apparently overlooked aspect of the low angle stroke is that the end of the power phase conveniently delivers the blade to for the next cyclr directly over and a matter of inches (compared to feet for high angle) over the effective area for an efficient catch.
Too much information. Ok! I won’t bore anyone with details of an efficient low angle stroke. I’m intrigued why so many paddlers who own multiple $3,600 kayaks would ever even resort to the inferior low angle stroke using a paddle that’s 20 to 40 cm too short? Why not remain in high angle mode. If you excuse my warped sense of humor, doesn’t that conjure images of Chris Farley’s parody of a “big guy in a little coat.” I’m just trying to organize the logic for the new people who aren’t familiar with paddling concepts.
Long-time paddlers, especially if you were trained by professional trainers, can point out any misrepresentation that I outlined above, so I can stand corrected and revise my bias. Above all, don’t let me influence your paddling techniques. However, I can’t realize the value of low angle if you mastered the superior high angle form, and before you denigrate low angle, at least look at one of those generic “What Size Paddle Do I Need” charts.
Look no further than paddle.com, a paragon of the paddling sport. Ironic that I don’t feel so out of the mainstream after all, since I actually made all that paddle length stuff up.
It appears that length is a more critical factor in selecting both high and low angle, because the blade width between the Ikelos and the Kalliste is only about 3/4 inch different on one side of the center line, and even less on a Cyprus. Consider how the difference between a typical 210 cm high angle paddle and a typical low angle paddle of 230 cm length is 20 cm (7.87 inches overall or 3.93 inches per side). A 250 cm is 15.75 inches overall, so what is that per side? About 7 7/8 inches per side, which increases the paddle arc swing from catch to exit by . . . Can that be right . . . by as much as 15.75 inches!? Yet it doesn’t increase the interval between catch and release . . . and it doesn’t slow my cadence of 72 to 80 spm as measured by a clock set to the sesium beam standard at the Naval Observatory. If that is true, it seems that the high angle afficionado changed paddling technique while compromising a primary asset of the low angle paddling technique, the improved range of the paddle swing. What am I missing. Is a video needed for training purposes or for critique to brand me as a hack? I’ve yet to feel that my points are either well receive, understood or appreciated.
To coin an old phrase, if it aint broke, don’t fix it. Do what works. On the other hand, the novice paddler trying to understand the difference between the proper sizing of a paddle and the suitability of interchanging high and low angle paddle, the above might point out some considerations. Once you buy the paddle, you’re stuck. If you find that high angle is the ticket for you, don’t compromise the efficiency by changing the length to make it suitable for both high and low angle use. Instead, but two cheap paddles rather than ruin an expensive one.
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My eyes hurt I’ll wait for a video. 
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I keep thinking the Declaration of Independence was only 1300+ words long. Lincoln’s Gettysburg address? 272.
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